Since starting the SR journey, I’ve become interested in making sure my razor edge does not deteriorate. Learning proper stropping has been part of the process, and I’ve got some Chromium Oxide on order along with a Naniwa 12000 stone to refresh the edge. Before I do something stupid to screw up a professionally honed edge, I have a few questions.

1. My stropping technique has improved but it started out a bit awkward. How would I know if I inadvertently rolled an edge at some point, and If I had, what would I do to correct of repair it?

2. As far as a refresh goes, I’m planning on using Chromium Oxide on a strop. Several questions here: I ordered a crayon on Amazon from Woodstock, which I’ve now read isn’t a “pure” source. Does this mean I should return it and replace it with something else? If so, what? Also should I apply it to an extra leather strop I have on hand, or instead use balsa wood or some other material? (I can mount any of them to a fixed surface).

3. I have a loupe and have looked at a sharp and dull blade under magnification, but I have no idea what to look for and/or try and correct. Any insight here?

Thanks!

Howdy,

1. It wom't shave as well. You can probably see a rolled edge with 7-10x magnifiction, but have not tried it.

2. I don't use pastes or sprays, but lapped balsa glued to a flat substrate is appealing because it would tend to convex the edge much less than a hanging strop. Eventually a pasted hanging strop will make the edge cross section look li,e 'U' rather than 'V' and you'll need to go back to a stone to flatten the bevels. I've had them so bad from Europe where pasted strops are the norm that I went back to a 500 grit stone just to save time re-cutting the bevels. You might also want to consoder diamond spray or cubic boron nitride (CBN) CBN is supposed to give a smoother edge.

You could also touch up on lapping film. I don't think that there's a way to determine which is best because it depends on what you like in an edge.

3. If you can see light reflect off the apex, that's not good. A polished bevel meeting in a 'V' should not reflect visible light off the edge itself, where the bevels actually meet.

Hope this helps!

Cheers, Steve

Lapping film works great - get some 3 micron and 1 micron. Most of the time 50 to 100 laps on the 1 micron will do the trick.

In addition to lapping film, I tried refreshing blades on a felt pad and diamond spray for over a year and was never satisfied. Recently I started using felt and paste on my paddle strop and the difference is like night and day. It’s been an eye opener. I can’t recommend it enough.

There is crox with 0,5 micron abrasive and green paste with 5 micron abrasive, that is quote a difference!
It is interesting to know what you bougth.

Use a different strop for paste.

You have a 12 k, a few laps should keep a shaving knive in shape!
The crox can add some comfort.

The Naniwa 12k is a good stone, I have one and it’s a easy to use. Just a few laps should keep your edge good.

Buy CrOx from a razor vendor to make sure you get the appropriate one for razors. I use a hanging linen strop but leather is good too. Make sure to wipe the razor before moving to your clean strop, you don’t want to ‘pollute’ your strop.

I have a Naniwa 12k and it does a great job if all I need is a little touch up to the edge.

If you’ve rolled the edge, or have any damage, you will have to go lower than 12k.

Can you use a stropping motoion (blade backwards) motion, or is it a strictly honing (blade forward) thing?

Blade forward.

dang time flies

I made this about 7 or 8 years ago this is the final part of a 3 part series but it is the part you need

Combine the techniques I am using for the 10k and the 12k into your "Refresh" routine using just the 12k
I have quite a few customers that use this system and I only see their razors for initial setup and if they damage it






The CrOx crayon you got from Amazon is not what you need, even among us honing wingnuts there are two types

#1 The most common is .50~ and very pure, usually supplied by Handamerican to whoever then sells it, this WILL actually add a TINY bit of keenness to your edge it has a very low cutting quality but will help a little for a refresh

#2 The hard one to find is actually.30~ and 99.999% pure, very soft, it is about useless for adding keenness it, however, is AWESOME after honing to add comfort. This is not any good at all for a refresh, it is simply good for adding comfort to a freshly honed edge. It can be found at Optical polishing supply right next to the CeOx hehehe that is a whole other discussion on smoothness

You can actually hear the difference between these two types when stropping, I have some of the second type if you are interested in trying it PM me,

Hone On !!!

I have kept razors fresh using either my Swaty or frictionite barbers hones. 6-8 laps, followed by a good stropping keeps the edge fresh.
Here’s how by ole what’s-his-name

Oh! It’s ol’ what’s his name!

I have old puma crox, for me 0,5 or 0,3 doesn't matter, but the absence of big particles does.

I do get the impression that the carrier is also important.
On hard leather, this crox adds sharpness after some coti edges, and it softens a sh20k,...
On linnen, I never got the idea it sharpens, but it softens a harsh edge.

I will look into the optical crox! Thx for the tip!

In Europe there are lots of people that use only a strop, and if really required some honingpaste or a newpaper, thats it.
A friend that I talked into straigths is shaving now for half a year with the same razor and he is only using a strop, no paste, no stone, just 10 passes on the linnen, 20 passes on the leather and a few passes after his shave. And it is my former herold strop, nothing fancy.
So, each his way!

Damn good looking fella
Ol' whats his name ...

How low do you recommend for a rolled edge? Set the bevel completely ?

It really depends on the how badly the edge is rolled.

I’ve heard it said once from a member on this thread that you should go down one level and if that doesn’t fix the edge, then go down another level. I have a Naniwa stone set og1k, 3k, 8k, and 12k stones. For me that means I’ll first go to my 8k, and if that doesn’t work, I’ll go to my 3k. Without seeing the edge under a loupe, it’s hard to determine the damage and where to start.

Could you fix a damaged edge on a high grit stone? Yes, but you would be at it much longer. I wouldn’t go back to my 1k, unless I felt I had to reset the bevel.

^^^^^ What Jim said

I used to have this saying about touch ups and it is pretty accurate still

"Drop Two and Go"
What it basically means is when you are touching up a razor say you originally honed it on a Typical progression


1-4-8-12
or maybe
1-4-8-natural

You drop two stages and start there

So in the above scenario you would start at the 8k level then re-work from there

This is NOT a paint by numbers perfect every time rule, you have to still read the edge, which is just experience, but it is a pretty good starting point to learn with and once you gain more experience fixing your edges you might learn your beard and technique allows for drop one and go or you are hard on edges and it is drop three and go...

Why the fixation on the rolled edge?

A rolled edge means there was a big fin on the edge, for me, this fin needs to be removed before shaving as it is way to vulnarable to provide a durable shave.

Often, a rolled edge, even the one from dulling on glass, can be brougth back to the formes hht with stropping on linnen.
As i dont like shaving on a fin i use edge leading strokes, honing (lapping) on slurry also prevents formation of a fin.

You can usually hone off a fin or wire edge with very light back and forth strokes, flipping the blade each stroke.

Cheers, Steve

Oh damn. I have a new favourite you tube channel now.