SOS: September 2018

September 14th
Razor: ATT S1
Blade: Rapira Swedish Supersteel(1)
Brush: Switchback/TGN Finest
Pre-shave: Stirling Mentholated
Soap: Stirling Executive Man
Stirling mentholated witch hazel
AS: Stirling Executive Man


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

* Charcoal Goods Level 3 + Stork Ex Brass
* Wizamet Iridium Super
* Maseto Shaving XD 2-Band + K-Translucent
* Mystic Water Sensitive Skin
* Unrefined Shea Butter
* Bergamot/Vetiver EO​

 

SEptember 14th SOTD
Schick E2 w Personna (2)
Stirling Bay Rum SS
Omega ‘49 / Walnut
Thayers
Jeeves OHS Tobacco Bay Leaf AS

 

Weber DLC razor
Silver Star blade
WD Synthetic brush
Taconic Eucalyptus Mint SC
Osage Rub/Witch Hazel w/aloe
Taconic Eucalyptus Mint A/S

All the parts liked each other and easily destroyed a 2 day growth. My face is happy. Now go enjoy your day folks.

 

Friday, September 14

Mike's Barber Shop~~M&F Finest Beehive~~J2 Gillette Tech~~Personna Med Prep~~B&M Cool AS
Have a great day!​

 

Mickey Lee Soapworks The Drunken Goat
TOST LE Brush
Frederick Reynolds Razor
Lucky Tiger
Pinaud Clubman After Shave
Happy Friday!

 

PAA Ascension/Supermax BDT. Not as pleasant a journey as some but efficiency is top notch. Setting is snug but not tight.

 

Tallow and Steel Sicily shave soap, Omega Pura Setola bristle brush, WCS Mariner razor, loaded with a fresh Derby blade, Stirling Red Delicious aftershave.

Two and a half passes, good shave.

The Mariner razor isn't aggressive, so the fresh Derby blade was a good addition. I really like the stiffness of the Omega bristle brush.

 

RazoRock | The Dead Sea
Leo Frilot Tru-Stone Copper Matrix | AP Shave Co. SynBad 30mm
Phoenix Shaving | Ascension Double Open Comb (7075 Al)
Gillette 7 o'clock Super Platinum (Black)
Catie's Bubbles | Quatre Cent Vingt EdP

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I was a casual fan of the original Phoenix Double Open Comb (DOC). My only complaint is that it was too mild and inefficient for my every-other-day shaving habits. I dramatically improved its efficiency by shimming it. Ultimately, I passed on my original DOC to someone who appreciated it without modification. Later, PAA released a higher-end razor of similar design called the Evolution. I never used the Evolution as I imagined it was simply a heavier version of the original (I've since learned it was a very different razor altogether). The Double Open Comb design was briefly used in a 1940s razor, the "Grand Shave King", and PAA sought out to pay homage to this unique tool. Since PAA revived the obscure design, at least two other vendors have churned out their own double open combs. I've not tried them either.

A few months back, I received a surprise package from PAA. It was a prototype of the Ascension with two base plates. The artisan asked I put the razor and its plates through the paces and provide feedback. What he hadn't noticed is that I'd been exclusively using vintage SEs for well over a year at this point. This may have proven my insight more unique as I was a bit rusty with DEs and had even fallen out of favor with them after my enlightenment of vintage SEs. Nevertheless, I was willing to give it a go. While I liked both iterations, one plate was the true winner, and I think the current release Ascension utilizes that very plate design and geometry. Even with only a few shaves under my belt with the prototype, I was sold. No, I won't be selling off all my vintage SEs and injectors, but there's no disputing the remarkable efficiency of the Ascension.

That's right, I said "efficiency". This is a completely different shave experience from that of the original DOC. My personal definition of shaving efficiency is essentially regarding a razor's ability to remove stubble in relationship to the number of necessary passes. Efficiency is not to be confused with "aggression" which, to me, is more about the blade feel and comfort of the shave. Again, this is all my personal perception of the terms, but "aggression" rightfully has a negative connotation. The opposite of aggression is mild. In my mind, aggression or mildness have nothing to do with efficiency, although they often converge and thus incorrect assessments are made.

I find the Ascension to be very mild and comfortable, but extremely efficient at the same time. In my experience, there are very few DEs that can give me a BBS with only 2 passes. The Ascension does this with ease. It's also quite intuitive with an easily found blade angle even as a head shaver.

While I expect there to eventually be a stainless steel version, the current iteration of the Ascension is anodized 7075 aluminum. As a result, it's quite light, but given the handle is made of the same material, it maintains its balance. There's also a bit of drag associated with this type of finish. I actually like this aspect in that it's similar to stretching your skin during a shave. I anticipate others not liking this aspect, so they will probably prefer a polished finish.

The Ascension is touted as being a "twist adjustable" which essentially exploits the amount of play allowed when tightening down the apparatus. However, with other similar 3-piece razor designs, the shape of the base plate means there's only one true setting which is snug. The Ascension's plate, however, torques the installed blade such that it acts as a spring. This effectively makes this final quarter-turn play into a usable range that fine tunes the blade gap and angle without risk of blade movement, misalignment, or chatter. While I know the artisan will take full credit for this "ingenious" design, I can't say if this was just a happy accident or by-design. Regardless, it is a viable adjustment option for those who feel the need to tweak the angle and gap on a minute level. Personally, I just tighten the handle until the whole apparatus is stable (not over-tightened), then I start shaving. I find no reason to make these little adjustments as the comfort and efficiency are just right for me without thinking about it.

As with all PAA products, aesthetics are always considered. The Ascension is no exception. This is an attractive piece for sure. The base plate has been anodized to a dark grey and includes laser etching. As to the asymmetrical aspect of the head, I can't see how it offers any function other than that of conversation. That's actually not a detraction, but rather right in-line with the embedded storytelling that makes PAA products unique.

I still consider myself to be a staunch vintage SE/injector advocate, but the Ascension Twist-Adjustable Double Open Comb Safety Razor has caused me to drop my moratorium on the use of DEs and actually begin restocking DE blades.

 

Frosty Rum sounds interesting, what's your thoughts Jeff?

 

Saturday Planned SOTD



Razor: PAA El Cubano DOC
Blade: Super Iridium (D6)
Brush: MS Faux Horn 30MM Silvertip
Bowl Buffalo Horn 6"
Pre-Shave Scrub: MRGO Lime
Pre-Shave Oil: Homemade Bay Rum w Lime
Shave Soap: Meißner Bay Rum
Post: Stirling's Bay Rum Butter
Aftershave: Ogallala Bay Rum
​

 

Guy, it's Frosty Bay Rum - my Super Speed covered the "Bay!" lollll It's lovely - the scent is so nice, it lathers like a blast, and the menthol effect is medium strength. Nowhere even close to what any of the Stirling menthol soaps are, (forget the Glacials!) but still nice and cooling. It has good skincare as well. I hope to have this soap in my rotation all the time!

 

Today's shave was with a Newly Acquired, Restored, and Honed American Made Razor. I had a very very smooth, 2 pass shave, that left me BDBS. Only one tiny nick, my fault, I was in a hurry. Non Bleeder. Wonderful razor, and very well made. I think some American Made razors, are made with better steel, and better crafted that some of the big named Razors from Solingen, and Sheffield.

Razor- Geneva Cutlery Corp. Geneva New York
Brush- B400, By Tom. Whipped Dog Boar. Shed 11 hairs.
Soap- Arko/Sandalwood scented
Aftershave- Shulton Old Spice

 

September 15, 2018
Blackland Sabre L2
Gem PTFE
SOC Mistura Taj
Figaro Sapone Special
Captain’s Choice Bay Rum

​

 

Such a beautiful Brush/Razor combo!

 

Here's How It Looks Saturday:

prep-Nivea 4 Men Bodywash(Energy)in shower
shave-Razorock "Lime Burst" soap*
brush-Stoylin "li'l brudder"
razor-Gillette Sensor Deuce Pivot + DisposeABLE
A.S.-Clubman Reserve Gent's Gin

*Triple Milled

 

15 September 2018

* Charcoal Goods Level 3 + Stork Ex Brass
* Wizamet Iridium Super
* Shavemac D01 2-Band Marble Blue
* Mystic Water Lavender/Lime
* Unrefined Shea Butter
* Bergamot/Vetiver EO


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Thanks Jeff for the feedback. I agree that a touch of menthol is better in Bay Rum than a heavy dose such as glacial. I have Al's Shaving "The Bomb" Calypso (Bay Rum) Mentholated but this one is a little too light on the menthol but super easy to lather, hence why the call it the bomb, aroma is nice but skin care is not as good as Stirling or other top soaps we have out there today.

 

SEptember is a Stirling month!

September 14

Razor - 1914 Ever Ready
Blade - (1)
Soap - Stirling Ozark Mountain
Brush - Stirling Two Banded Synthetic
Finish - Alum

Back to the 1914 tonight with a fresh Treet Super. Stirling Ozark Mountain and synthetic for the perfect lather. It is literally impossible to have a bad lather with this soap and brush. Can't do it. Even if I tried. The shave was as smooth as silk with the new blade and three full passes brought the baby on board with not even a twinge from the alum. I'm really liking the way the 1914 shaves. It may not be the sexiest looking Gem in the bunch but man it does the job. Nice!

The weekend is here which means late nights for me as usual. Getting ready to head out in a bit. Hope you all have a great weekend!

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Nice write up Matt. Overall I really enjoy the PAA bay rum variants. It is good the hear the Pumpkin version lives up to reputation of the family of products.
Steve