SOS: May 2019

Wholly Kaw | Pasteur's Alchemy
Leo Frilot Tru-Stone Copper Matrix | AP Shave Co. SynBad 30mm
Phoenix Shaving | Ascension Double Open Comb | Copper
Treet Platinum Super Stainless Steel

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I was fortunate enough to have procured the full soap/splash/EdT set of Wholly Kaw's Pasteur's Alchemy. It didn't arrive such that the next day would be a shave day, so I simply applied the EdT in the morning to enjoy the fragrance throughout the day. The shave would follow in the evening. The documented notes of Pasteur's Alchemy are: neroli, mandarin, cannabis, rose, amber, sandalwood, oud, and vanilla.

The EdT opens beautifully with a bright and slightly powdery sweet orange floral that very nearly approaches tobacco flower as it transitions to a deep darker ambery rose. After a couple hours this descends to a soft, resin and sandalwood followed by spicy vanilla. Given the EdT concentration, the dry down is surprisingly protracted, offering a pleasant warm, nondescript amber presence with intermittent vanilla. Amidst an active work day, the EdT was still detectable, albeit faintly, at the 6 hour mark. I did search for just a hint of cannabis, particularly in the second act, but I could not detect it.

At the end of the day, it was time for my usual evening head and face shower shave. The lather shares the profile, but presents it in a very different manner. The opening neroli/mandarin is present, but brief, muted, and quickly overtaken by a bold herbaceous musk. This is not dank, but certainly more representative of cannabis and even an exotic hashish note cannot be ruled out. I suspect the animalic tallows of the soap carry this aspect much better and true than the splash and EdT, and this is probably a good thing. Despite this punchy mid, there is a mitigating floral that tempers this striking, unconventional fragrance.

I finished with the paired splash which revisited the presentation of the EdT I'd just experienced all day. I will say, this reverse introduction of the Pasteur's Alchemy fragrance provided some unique insight in terms of the unfolding and reveal. All in all, while the soap is quite exotic and daring, the EdT is---obviously by design---more wearable.

As to the performance of the soap base, coined "Bufala", it is very similar to Wholly Kaw's donkey milk and hops base which I've praised previously. The lather demands generous amounts of water that should be introduced gradually. This soap will lather and work quickly, but it you take your time building, you'll have a very different experience. The pay-off is a medium profile, thick, paintable lather with impressive initial and secondary slickness that interacts with your skin as opposed to making your gear slick and oily. While there is simply nothing going against this soap's performance, the post-shave is the aspect that sets Bufala above the prior base and its competitors. It's hard to resist running my hands across my silky smooth scalp following this shave. Among a crowded field of incredibly high performing artisan soap bases, Bufala may yet offer the best post-shave in the business.

 

My midweek SOTD:

Neutrogena Men Facial Wash
Razorock Plissoft 26mm Monster
Wilkinson TTO/Rapira day 4
RVT Frosty Bay Rum SS
Prep ASB
Krampert’s Bay Rum AS Splash
Yves Saint Laurent Pour Homme EdT

This Wilkinson razor is something else - it’s not only beautiful looking, it gives me such great shaves with the right choice of blades. More than a year later and I still can’t get over how fantastic this Frosty Bay Rum soap is - it’s got such a magnificent scent, its lather is to die for, the menthol sensation is good, and the skincare is soothing as well as very comfortable. There’s something about the Prep and the smell of bay rum which makes them go very well together. It took me just two passes to get a perfect BBS shave!

 

May 8th SOTD
Gillette Red Tip w PermaSharp
Strop Shoppe Baker St
APShaveCo SynBad/Poculi handle
Thayers
Stirling Baker St

Have a great day all!

 

If a picture is worth a thousand words, then this one is worth 2 thousand!

 

Nice report.

 

Star 3 piece razor
Silver Star blade
Fine Classic Synthetic brush
Williams SS ( modern)
Osage Rub/Witch Hazel w/aloe
Daxton A/S

Mighty fine shave indeed! All the parts worked well together, got a great lather and smooth shave. My face is happy for sure. Now go enjoy your day folks

 

Wolfman Razors Guerrilla SS / Voskhod PTFE / Grizzly Bay Black Hole Sun / Eufros Fougere

 

A really good shave. Love the citrusy type scent combo.

 

Enders Speed/Schick Proline

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Tues 7th May

Pre: Warm water splash
Brush: WDC-8 Maseto 24mm 2BF
Soap: 1912 Apricus
Razor: Blackland Vector
Blade: Feather Pro Super
Post: Warm then cold water rinse, Pashana Eau De Cologne

Eight days growth swept away with less effort than it took to clean the sink afterwards.
Loving the Apricus scent.

Wed 8th May

Pre: Warm water splash
Brush: LeeDa Keyhole, Maggards 24mm 2BF
Soap: Noble Otter Barrbarr
Razor: Cobra Classic
Blade: Schick Proline P
Post: Warm then cold water rinse, Myrsol Blue ASL

Cobra, Noble Otter and Myrsol Blue, nothing more to say.

 

The Thursday Way Of Life:

prep-Dial 4 Men Bodywash(Recharge)in shower
shave-Barbasol (can)*
razor-Gillette Sensor Deuce Pivot + DisposeABLE
A.S.-Stephan Bay Rum(Fragrant Skin Toner)**

*From here on out, all my Barbasol shaves will be with the "Century Can"(well, the last few have too)
**-Since 1897-thing's been around.

 

Pre-shave : furbo sandolor
Razor :King Cobra
Blade :Feather Professional #1
Brush antarei High mountain 26 mm
Shave soap : Saponificio varesino Felce aromatica
Post : Alun Block
Aftershave : Saponificio varesino Felce aromatica

 

Is that Lou Pasteur?

 

You gonna luv dat Sartorial!

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SOTD May 8th


Stirling Mentholated Pre-Shave Soap
EDRIO #59 RazoRock Baby Smooth
Gillette Wilkinson Sword (2)
Yaqi Moka Express (26mm, Frigate Class)
Viking Blades Langham Spa
Aqua Velva Ice Sport

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Thank you.

Louis, yes.

 

Some of my best gear and software: M&F 2XL Finest Badger (mid 2018 collaboration), Wolfman .86 gap, Nacet, Talbot's/Pasteurs Governors Island, Floid Blue.

 

Thursday SOTD



Razor: RazoRock Black Hawk
Blade: Feather Artist Club Pro (D10)
Brush: Shavemac 277 32mm Silvertip
Bowl: Symmetrical Pottery Shave Bowl
Pre-Shave Scrub: MRGO Lime
Pre-Shave Oil: Stirling Island Man
Shave Cream: AOS Bergamot Neroli
Post: Monster Block Alum
Aftershave: Chatillon Lux Fourth & Pine



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May 9, 2019
O.R.E.N.
Feather Pro Super
Shavemac D01 3 band
A&E “The City”
Fine Santal Absolut

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Blackland Blackbird, Brass
Gillette Platinum (1)
Murphy and McNeil Triskele
Stirling Unscented Witch Hazel
Chiseled Face Natural