Summary of various Gillette types

Discussion in 'Safety Razors' started by Zed117, Sep 15, 2019.

  1. Zed117

    Zed117 Well-Known Member

    I have had the pleasure to try many vintage Gillette’s, and would like to offer a summary of my impressions. I have added pictures to help members understand the general models I am talking about, and they can search specifics.


    The Old types: What can I say? I firmly believe these are meant for older thicker blades. Using different top cops and shims I have had good to great shaves, but never find them enjoyable.



    The New standard/Improved: An improvement to be sure, but aggressive and not very rigid IMO. Many beautiful sets.




    The NEW’s: So many variations and too much to discuss. I would quickly rate them RFB=SC>Deluxe(both versions)>LC>Goodwill>others.




    The Aristocrats: My favorite of the bunches, and a name reused across several decades. All of them are fantastic, both the British and American models. Many share the same heads on different handles, and the base plates were machined in England instead of stamped, making razors slightly different across the same range.
    1st Gen OC> 46’ 47’ Aristocrat>1934 OC>3rd Gen SB>Executive(rhodium American barberpole)>2nd Gen SB>4th Gen SB> the rest.



    The Adjustables: I prefer heavy razors, so I like them in order of release. Fatboy>Slim>Super.



    The Techs: I like all of them, but have never tried the RFB Tech. I assume it would be my favorite, but the Pre war tech wins for now.



    The Superspeeds: many different models here, too many to name. I prefer the Red tip due to looks and weight, but find them all to be a tad to mild. I add razors like the lady Gillette here as the heads are the same.

    Final conclusion: I think the Aristocrats and NEWs were the cream of the crop when it came to Gillette razors. Would love to see others comparisons added below, I know many members have tried far more than I.

    Top 5: Gillette Popular, 46’-47’ Aristocrat, Fatboy, RFB NEW, 1934 Aristocrat. I only kept the top 3.

    YMMV
     
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  2. brit

    brit in a box

    great summary ,ok here goes..
    old types--have 2 ,use them very little but they shave well..a light touch is needed.
    new improved-..similar shave to old type but beautiful to look at..
    the new-.love them ..favorites start to finish--44,77 rfb,sc ,new deluxe both types so far,lc,goodwill empire..drawback is the light handles for me..i use solid handles with the 3 piece ones.
    aristocrats-.awesome favs--british 15 oc,u.s.46-7 ,3rd gen flat plate and 4th gen diamond plate..#58 crat jr.
    adjustables-slim then fatboy..not used a lot at present.
    techs-love and am obsessed with brit flat bottom techs,especially the brit service tech,new tech hybrid ,canadian prewar,u.s prewar.post war techs see little use..german aluminum tech is very nice.
    superspeeds -i prefer rockets- flat plate rocket.,flare tip rocket,rhodium tv special rocket,1965 slim head rocket,red tip rocket,z-4 u.s superspeed..
    too many to list a favorite but top 10--oc crat,#77 rfb ,new tech hybrid,rhodium tv special rocket.brit service tech,.new sc ,new deluxe 3 piece,#58 crat jr,3rd gen aristocrat,and 38-40 sheraton.
    this list always changes..;)..list is not in any order..
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2019
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  3. MntnMan62

    MntnMan62 Well-Known Member

    Nice summary. I think I tend to agree with your findings to a large extent. My top four are probably the New Deluxe, Old Type, Single Ring and Slim Adjustable. I found the New Deluxe to give me the best, smoothest shave of all of them that I have tried, which is many, but certainly not all. Besides the ones I've just mentioned I have New Improved, NEW (both long and short comb), Tech and Super Speed. I have not tried a Fatboy or an Aristocrat or any of the others not mentioned. The Slim Adjustable is on the list because it happens to be my birth year/quarter (H3) and it surprised me how nice a shaver it actually is. But he New Deluxe has just given me consistently close blood and irritation free shaves for quite a while now. I'm now putting my newest razor through its paces to see how it stacks up against the New Deluxe. It's a RazoRock GameChanger Open Comb. I have three shaves under my belt and the first two were excellent. Today's was a little less than perfect. It may have been the blade which was something like 5 or more shaves on it. I seem to be a 3 or 4 shave per blade guy. I think I'll use it exclusively for a bit to really get to know it. But my benchmark is the New Deluxe. I don't use the Tuckaway handle that both of my versions came with. I stuck both heads on Ikon Bulldog handles. 80mm and 85mm. I prefer the 85. It just seems to fit my hand better than the shorter one. The RR GC OC I got with the HD handle. I liked it because it too is 85mm and it resembles the Merkur 34C HD handle in looks. So far the New Deluxe is still holding the top spot. Time will tell.
     
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  4. preidy

    preidy Just call me Dino

    Good summaries from all above no major disagreements here. I've been able to tame my early Single Rings and enjoy regular use in my rotation. My all time favorite and smoothest is the NEW SC and Pre-war Tech. Still love using my TTO's; 40's style Super Speeds 47 to 54, Red Tip's, 41 Ranger Tech and various Flair Tip Rockets and of course the ole HD500. Not a big favorite of using my "195" or Slim as a regular shaver but occasionally use just because (I still love the classic look of the "195" and Slim)
     
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  5. Zed117

    Zed117 Well-Known Member

    Keep these coming Gentlemen!
     
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  6. Primotenore

    Primotenore missed opera tunity

    Article Team
    Nice post.
    I have had many Gillette razors and have an opinion about many of them.
    1908 Single Ring...To shim or not to shim...? While I completely agree that these razors were designed with the old, thick blades in mind, I have learned that I can get a magnificent shave without a shim.
    I owned a New LC and SC. Both great razors, but nothing that I couldn't live without. Sold them.
    Had a gorgeous Senator. My first OC TTO and what a nice shave. Sold it.
    1941 Ranger Tech. KEEPER. I love this razor.
    1947 Super-Speed. KEEPER. Ditto.
    I had a 48-50 NOS Aristocrat, 1955 NOS President, 1955 Red Tip, 19..something Milord tech and Milord, '56 Super-Speed, 1964 Tech. Parat... all basically, IMO, the same shave. They've moved on.
    Still have a 1958 D3 Adjustable. Nostalgia is the only reason it remains in my den.
    So, to recap.
    Best shave: 1947 Super-Speed
    Best looking: Tie, 1941 Ranger Tech, 1908 Single Ring.
     
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  7. Rev579

    Rev579 Well-Known Member

    This is a really good idea. Comparing the TTO's to the 2-piece and 3 piece razors could pose a problem due to the basic geometry.
    I'd love to see a comparison along these lines:
    Old Type Category
    ABC Stamped Comb : ABC Machined Comb : 102 : 102a : Goodwill 162 : Goodwill 164
    New Improved Category
    106 : 126
    NEW Gillette Category
    Long Comb : Short Comb(type 1) : Short Comb(type 2) : Deluxe : RFB : Goodwill 160 : Goodwill 170 : Goodwill 175
    Tech Category
    Pre-War Tech : Post-War US Tech : Post-War British Tech : Hybrid Tech : Mid-60's Tech

    There have been countless between comparisons of the OC TTO's and the Safety Bar TTO's, but the 2 & 3-piece sets have been neglected.

    Personally, I find that there is a difference(and strength) each of the razors offer, best determined by your beard(Fine or Coarse, Thick or Thin Follicle, Straight or Curly) Beard Pattern and Skin(Sensitive, Normal, or Rough).
     
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  8. brit

    brit in a box

    awesome..
     
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  9. Zed117

    Zed117 Well-Known Member

    I really agree with this sentiment. I thought the Red tip was nice eye candy, but not any different from my 46’-48 crat, didn’t stick around. All of the above have very similar head designs.
     
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  10. Rev579

    Rev579 Well-Known Member

    I did notice the 48-50 A’crat and 55 D’mat were the easiest and seemed to represent a nice sweet-spot, while the 40-41 heads(A’crat/Milady/Ranger/Milord) offered the closer shave(for me).
    I moved on to the Senator after a while, but can still tell a difference between the OC & Safety Bar.
     
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  11. brit

    brit in a box

    i would like to try a ranger tech at some point..you know my record but i haven't tried a first gen safety bar type gillette yet..other than my z-3 superspeed..nor a brit popular oc..
     
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  12. Zed117

    Zed117 Well-Known Member

    If you have tried the #15 it should be very similar. I’ve read it’s supposedly the same head, but I found it smoother, perhaps just the lighter thinner handle, ymmv.
     
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  13. brit

    brit in a box

    the #15 is grand ..i love using it.i was thinking the popular was the brit version of the sheraton/senator ..sounds good..:)
     
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  14. Rev579

    Rev579 Well-Known Member

    My understanding(I don’t have a US 34-36 A’crat) is the Senator and Sheraton are very similar to the ‘35-36 A’crat, with the primary difference being the handle weight. So, think the Popular : B#15 and Senator/Sheraton : 35-36 US A’crat analogy works.
    Ive come really close to trading a Sheraton or Senator for a Popular a couple of times. Maybe one of these days.
     
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  15. jimjo1031

    jimjo1031 never bloomed myself

    Honestly, I get great shaves with all of my Gillette razors, even WW II Techs with bakelite handles and base plates. Some work better with certain blades, and the other razors with other blades. I am partial to '40's Aristocrats, LC, SC, Fatboy, Slim, Red Tip and Old Type razors. Guess what I'm saying is when I get the right razor/blade combo, I usually stick to them.
     
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  16. brit

    brit in a box

    i love the machined base plates..:).i don't have an oc u.s aristocrat but love the sheraton shave..
    i also want to get a ranger tech..i see on mr razor that there isn't a british type equivalent in the early 40s..
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2019
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