I think the "looks" is the most important factor for the modern razor market. I've yet to see a modern razor based on the lines and beauty of a shoulderless Torrey 136 5/8. Men have changed over the past 100 year in what they think is the best look. I had to prove this to myself and so I bought a 15/16 Herder last year. I found it shaves no better or worse than a 4/8 if properly prepared.
Long post if he does! Keith has some modern beauties! I'm a fan of the vintage blades—but am not opposed to using a modern SR. Some excellent makers out there. Brian Brown Custom...
pros: very hard steel that holds a scary-sharp & smooth edge. Well-made blade and scales (quality materials). Cons: deadly tip. I’m not used to a French point and it’ll bite hard if I’m not careful. I do love the shape for close detail use though as well as the deep thumb notch on the tang.
Brian Brown is one of the Top Grinders out there his Bevels are exceptionally even and tiny Discloser: Pretty means NOTHING to me, I only judge the steel and the grind, nothing else
My next submission: Drew Dick 7/8 Quarter Hollow w/ Acrylic scales - slightly smiling edge . Drew us an excellent bladesmith and an all-around good guy. I find his razors to be a great value as well. This one hasn't seen enough use to require honing (or even a refresh for that matter), so I can't comment there. I'm also not that experienced with smiling edges, so I wouldn't be the best person to provide an objective review. It shaves like a dream and has a superb edge on it. It is a bit longer than most straights (can't remember the exact length at the moment). My only criticism is that it is awkward to strop. The added length requires an x-pattern, even when using a 3" wide strop. But mostly, the contour of the tang and the shape of the scales make it awkward to hold while stropping. Other than that, it's a lovely razor.
I thought your Masters was the, now 'unobtainium', 6/8 shoulderless without the thumb notch. Please put me your list if you ever want clear that one out.
Dovo also has a 5/8 shoulderless blank. Most are used in their decorative Bergischer Löwe. You may find limited quantities of less decorative versions. I have 2. Bellied hollow grinds. I like how they shave. Here is one. I'd like to get some vintage pieces. Just haven't found what I like without giving my wallet a nasty shaving cut.
Different strokes for different folks. I once asked an accomplished golfer to help me choose a putter. He said “find one you like to look at”. Same for a straight for me. All things being equal, beauty is a plus.
Hmmmm, I’m in Phuket now, maybe when I’m back home and my woman is not around. I’m sure there will be a comment or two if she see them all out and that I’m taking pictures of the them. It has become an unobtanium, I make sure you are listed for it in my will. It is a superb razor.
So far only two razor purchases this year, one was ordered last year and the one I ordered this year a Drew Dick. The DD will be in the mail she is just waiting to be honed.
Actually I made a very specific statement... Pretty means Nothing to "ME", I have the skills and ability to rescale any razor I want, any way I want, with any material I want, so it really means NOTHING to me.. Never said it shouldn't mean anything to you.. To be perfectly honest, I try and only point out the good things about many of the custom makers out there, because I have realized over the years that I tend to see a higher percentage of the "Mistakes" than the average user. Most people that buy Customs know how to maintain their own razors so they usually only come my direction if there is a fault. I realized that over the years it jaded my opinion so I have taken a HUGE step back in saying things ..
I have been very happy with the quality of most of my artisan razors. But there were a few flops, they are not in my list.
I'd really be disappointed to have gotten a custom, modern razor only to have to send it out. The trend toward huge blades and huge scales is interesting and I wonder what's behind this trend because of the contrast with the preponderance of those made during the golden age of straight razor manufacturing and use. There seems to be a need for big among some male market segments. It probably corresponds to how pickup trucks are designed today.
Talking quite a bit over the years with the guys that make them,, As simply as possible the larger 8/8 sizes are what people order, there is a perception that larger size equals value, and that was proved with eBay sales.. I think it might come down to simple economics, the exact same amount of work goes into making a 6/8 as compared to an 8/8 and honestly, the difference in materials is pennies, the larger blade will sell for much more.. Also as I have learned from doing regrinds, it is actually easier to work the larger blades on the grinder. Last point, 4/8 - 6/8 razors are readily available in the modern market and the vintage market, but once you hit the 7/8+ size you availability shrinks considerably and the price jump for the larger vintage razors make Customs more palatable.. Anyway that is what I have been told and what I have seen over the years, some of that is debatable for sure
Hey, if you're making razors and you aren't paying attention to the market, you need your head examined. If you're selling razors and you think the modern man is confident in themselves that a 4/8 and 5/8 is the best, better think again. LOL!!
I'm not a fan of really large blades. The sweet spot for me is 11/16-14/16. I can do larger, or smaller, but those numbers are just my comfort zone.
One advantage of a wide blade is that you don’t have to keep rinsing the leather off. With a Filly 14 I can shave half my face, rinse the blade then shave the other half. So 6/8-7/8 for me mostly. I prefer hollows in the larger sizes, a 1/4 hollow 7/8 is just too heavy for my liking.
I’ve never noticed that a 5/8 needs to be rinsed more often than the 15/16 although I’ve repeatedly heard it said on opinion forums. If a 1 inch blade were an advantage, the professionals would have used them and we’d see them advertised in Leo a Kochs and other vintage catalogs. We don’t. And, that’s most likely why so many 5/8 ‘s are for sale on eBay.