has a lathering learning curve procedure for some but is the best unmodified old school soap that still exists..
If it was so good it wouldn't be made with ingredients involving formaldehyde. Yes, I tend to despise soaps that cheapen themselves by using inferior ingredients like EDTA. EDTA is a byproduct of formaldehyde and is used because it's cheap. That's why I still like Stirling Soap Co.
while i appreciate your choice of soaps available to you they are limited internationally.sadly,most mass produced companies cut some corners to be available for different markets.even cheapened MWF blows Williams away..which is a real shame..one would expect better from U.S manufacturer..
I checked my Tabac and it has tetrasodium EDTA in it as well. Good thing I have a year (or so) of Stirling soaps!
I'm not a chemical engineer but I do know a bit of common sense from environmental work ..... the further one moves away from natural ingredients the less it's conducive with normal functioning of the body and the environment. I react badly to EDTA and it has been found to be very bad for the body. Unfortunately the industries have been increasingly using it in many things you use on the outside your body as well as food. If you are having troubles getting American soaps give ma a holler and I'll get them to you.
+1 The stick mode is for sure the easiest way. Even difficult soaps leather fast this way. +1 Today there are semisynthetic options very interesting. Eco friendly, physiologically tested, better performances ... at a cheaper price than natural ones. But not so cheap as the most utilized chemical ones. This is always the problem ...
I’m fairly new to wet-shaving, so grain of salt and all that, but after I grated my MWF, I just kept it like that, and I sprinkle some gratings into my mug and foam up from there. Never had a issue getting good lather. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I read an article on Sharpologist today that suggested doing just that with hard soaps. Seems like a good idea.
I don't think so. It's a waste of time. And more, It's a waste of the three roller milling machine process. So the soap will lost yield and fragrance. I prefer stay on the original triple milled.
Getting shards of triple-milled soap to "come together" requires far too much water, thus leading to "foam/suds", rather than the desired dense, creamy, yogurty lather. I, too will pass.
@Primotenore I just use the hard soaps with stick mode. Fast, easy, efficient ... even with difficult ones.
Hasn’t been a problem for me so far. I just make sure all the gratings have been absorbed into the lather before I judge whether to add more water. It’s not quite a velvety as Taylor’s, but it’s close. And you can bloom gratings, if that becomes an issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro