Essence by Tedalus

Discussion in 'Straight Razors' started by ischiapp, Oct 26, 2020.

  1. ischiapp

    ischiapp New Product Bloodhound

    :signs011:
     
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  2. Manumik

    Manumik Well-Known Member

    I sent this via newsletter, but, I hope it's okay to post this photo..
    The razors arrived here a few weeks ago and we are assembling them now..

    Tedalus.jpg
     
  3. Edison Carter

    Edison Carter Well-Known Member

    I think I see mine right.........


    ....................there!
     
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  4. Manumik

    Manumik Well-Known Member

    Hi Gentlemen,

    Here is a video showing the loading mechanism of Essence.

    Tedalus Essence Razor Blade Loading - YouTube

    Also, a brief information about what is happening in the back end.

    We will not be on a Kickstarter campaign. We planned to make one, but the marketing costs for a Kickstarter campaign became just too high over the past few years.
    Therefore, we decided to launch with a limited production run of 333 Razors.
    33 of them will go out with a 30% discount. Those who signed up on our website will be notified when we launch.

    We also made the heartbreaking decision not to offer the razor-stand right from the beginning as production costs are quite expensive in such low quantities. If we see that there is a demand for what we are doing, we will definitely offer the stand ASAP with a discounted price for all of you who already have bought the Essence razor upfront. This breaks my heart because the stand was almost as important as the razor when I first designed the razor.
    But as a startup, we have to make sure that there is a demand first.
    Thank you for understanding!

    Another point I would like to mention is the shipping.
    Shipping from Switzerland is complicated, expensive, and can take a long time. Therefore, we are negotiating and coordinating with fulfillment centers in the USA and Germany (EU) to ensure that we give you reasonable and faster shipping.

    The last point I would like to mention is the price point of Essence. We didn’t communicate that point because there are still some points we need to calculate (taxes, shipping, warehouse handling fees etc.)
    But the price point will be around +- 300 Euros.

    If you have more questions, feel always free to reach out.

    Cheers,
    Manuel
     
  5. snuff

    snuff Well-Known Member

    Twelve days ago it arrived Number one of 333, normally it would be available in early May but the manufacturer of the packaging has made a mistake so it will take a month longer for it to be available with the correct packaging, since I do not shave with the packaging .... I was very much looking forward to it, because the test versions were very good.

    I'm privileged in that I got the razor sooner then it will be available (June), that's because I was a tester for this razor (along with others among them professional barbers). I have shaved every day with it since I received it (head and face) and I'm impressed. Some pictures:

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  6. Edison Carter

    Edison Carter Well-Known Member

    Ohhhhhh........Feather Pro Supers and head shaving too. NICE!

    You must like it clean and smooth.
     
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  7. Manumik

    Manumik Well-Known Member

    Thank you @snuff for sharing the pictures and your kind words! Happy that you like the razor that much!
    And thanks again for the testing and your inputs during the development phase.
     
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  8. PLANofMAN

    PLANofMAN Eccentric Razor Collector Staff Member

    Moderator Article Team
    How does it compare to IBC and the Feather AC razors?
     
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  9. snuff

    snuff Well-Known Member

    I prefer it to both of these. the Feather DX models I have been using for many years and I love them but this shavette just feels better in the hand and during shaving. The IBC is ok but I hate that wheel to tighten it up, after a few weeks it just didn't work as it should anymore and during shaving I needed to keep retightening it.
     
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  10. PLANofMAN

    PLANofMAN Eccentric Razor Collector Staff Member

    Moderator Article Team
    I wondered if that would be an issue with the IBC. I use injector blades in it and haven't had issues with it loosening, but injector blades don't fill the whole blade section, so the blade acts more like a wedge, which does a decent job of tightening/locking the screw.

    I'm going to finally get around to trying feather AC blades in a shavette, probably next week sometime.
     
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  11. BBS

    BBS Well-Known Member

    The name sounds like some stinky liquid stuff in a bottle you splash on yourself when you don't have time to shower.
     
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  12. PLANofMAN

    PLANofMAN Eccentric Razor Collector Staff Member

    Moderator Article Team
    Still a better name for a razor than "One Blade" or "Model T." "Essence" translates to "gasoline" in French, which I find rather amusing.

    I would have called it "Bec de Corbin" or "dreadnought," but I'm unimaginative, and the name would have been based off the scales or blade shape. I think the name "Essence," fits the razor well, despite sounding like a modern fragrance name.
     
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  13. BBS

    BBS Well-Known Member

    Gasoline qualifies as stinky liquid stuff and also a better name than Eau De Toilet.
     
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  14. Manumik

    Manumik Well-Known Member

    Ha ha.. I hope that stinky liquid name gives you a good shave mate! :rofl:

    We are ready to launch Gents! June 20th it is!


    packaging boxex.jpg
     
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  15. Edison Carter

    Edison Carter Well-Known Member

    Ima gonna get me some of that obnoxious stinky liquid to splash on right after my first shave with one of them-thar gizmos.

    Yay……Happy Father’s Day to ME.
     
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  16. snuff

    snuff Well-Known Member

    Went on sale today, been using it for 2 months now, love it.

    [​IMG]
     
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  17. Edison Carter

    Edison Carter Well-Known Member

    :happy108:

    07329A4A-24C7-45DA-875B-F5B8741F8A42.jpeg
     
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  18. PLANofMAN

    PLANofMAN Eccentric Razor Collector Staff Member

    Moderator Article Team
    I just had what might have been the best shave of my life with the "Essence" by Tedalus.

    For this inaugural shave, I went right to the bottom of the bucket of blade choices. DE, injector, or Feather Artist blades. I went with DE, since I've never had a good shave with a DE in a shavette style razor. Not being completely stupid, I did at least select a vintage Polsilver DE blade for the shave. I also winced when I snapped it in half. I think I've got about 10 left. After initially feeling awkward about the balance and grip, the razor 'encourages' the user to use all one's fingers and also is well thought out for the user who wants to 'choke' up on the blade for detail work. The result is a shave that left me feeling like I was in complete control the entire time.

    The cutouts, the jibs, the length, all designed to be intuitive and grippy for the barber. The blade clamping method borrows from both the best of both vintage and modern designs. Superior to either.

    The only negative is that you cannot (rather, should not) store the razor with a blade loaded. The edge will touch a scale bolster. That bolster also doubles as a hook point for the stand, so it's a needed part and I guess a safety feature. Call it a reminder to remove the blade after the shave.

    Blade loading is more finicky than most shavette designs. The instructions are fairly clear and decently diagramed. The use of magnets and a steel frame as the blade holder really allows the faux "blade" to be as thin as a thick wedge blade straight razor. The channel and pins keep the blade and holder perfectly aligned. If you get a little off track, the razor snaps closed with an authorative snap.

    I used this at several angles, including a near 90° going under my nose, and never felt like I needed to push the spine into my face to erg out that last little degree of angle.

    This was not an easy feat to pull off, and I can say, without hesitation, that this is what shavettes promise, but fail to deliver: The closest thing to a straight razor shave in both form and function.

    If you are a person who likes the Feather AC razors, but wishes they were a little more realistic, more Western in look and feel, and thinner, this is the razor for you.

    I'm not blowing smoke up your a** when I say this razor brand will be the Wolfman of shavettes.

    So many times I've seen a razor hit the market with a good premise, but fall short on execution and quality. It's usually version two or three before the kinks get worked out.

    Here's the changes I'd like to see for version two and three. I'd like to see a bamboo handle and stand version and a red permaloid handle version. Preferably as accessory add ons.

    The original handle color choice is very well thought out. The purple/black gives it some interesting color play, and the silver it picks up from the blade reflection gives it a gunmetal sheen. It's going to give photographers a nice canvas for picking up color reflections.

    Some other thoughts about the design that haven't been mentioned or or gone into enough detail.

    The edge of the DE blade is as close as it is physically possible to get to the end of the shavette. Any shavette. Take your pick. Ditto for the other blades this takes.

    The machined finish of the interior of the blade compartment ensures that no tolerances have been polished away. In stark contrast, the logo "Tedalus," is subdued against a bright polished background. Every other surface of the blade is satin finished for a hand ground look and feel. There's enough very slight inconsistencies to the finish that I'm almost positive that each half of the blade is individually mated to the other by sanding the end and the spine. It results in a near seamless look to the razor, futhering the illusion that all three pieces of steel are one. The machine polish on the Chicago style screw bolster is a nice touch as well.

    The razor is slender enough that substituting traditional scales would turn it into the "sleeper" razor of the straight razor world.

    There isn't a single millimeter on this razor that isn't well thought out from both a visual and purposeful perspective.

    Full disclosure: I've said in the past that I won't review a razor that was sent to me for review. This one wasn't. It was a gift, in thanks for my contributions towards this project. Those contributions involved me digging out a rare German shavette, explaining how the halves attached, and suggesting that it might make a good modern design provided the right materials were used. He took it far beyond my initial suggestions and has created a masterpiece of a shavette style razor. Manuel did not ask for a review in exchange for this razor. This review is voluntary and unsolicited. I won't say it unbiased, since I did participate in the design a teeny-tiny bit. I'm super proud of how it turned out. It's everything I've always wanted a shavette to be.

    At $345 USD, it's priced high when compared to other shavettes, even "premium" models.

    A 333 piece run does mean that this will be a collector's item almost instantly, once the initial run has sold. I wish that he could have afforded to do a 3,333 piece run, because that would have meant the quantity was high enough to throw the stands in at that $345 price. Lower quantity, higher price, that's the way this industry works. As the years go by, I expect the price will drop some as he can afford to do bigger runs. If he can do runs big enough to challenge Feather at it's own price point, he will have secured his place at the head of the premium shavette market.

    Who is the audience? Not the average Joe, certainly. Not at this point.

    This is a tool, made to the highest of levels. For the barber that shaves customers, this is a God-send, and will pay for itself eventually. This is the Snap-On of shavettes, and for the barber who values a good tool, there's a lot of value in this one. If a customer gets cut, the failure will not be the Essence's fault.

    The dedicated straight razor user who cuts no corners and reluctantly switches to shavettes due to air travel will want this in his carry-on bag.

    The collector, who wishes for another modern "I have one, why don't you?" trophy for the collection. ...and yes, one of these will be a jewel in the razor crown.

    The "backer" who has the money, won't miss it, and likes to help good ideas succeed. Even better, this isn't Kickstarter anymore. The product already exists because one man believed in it. This product can become a sustainable business if others can share Manuel's vision.

    Finally, the shavette enthusiast. These odd ducks usually end up gravitating to actual straight razors over time, so the numbers are always in flux. This razor offers them the opportunity to put that day off indefinitely. If you only want to own one shavette, this is the one you want to own. If you can't afford it, buy a secondhand Weck and save up for this one. It's really that good.

    Are there enough of those three kinds of guys to buy these and make Tedalus a going concern? I hope so. Herr Mikasi deserves to see a return on his years of dedication and effort. There's a huge difference between a labor of love and a cash grab, and these razors fall into the former category.

    I know at this point, I sound like a paid shill, but I've been around long enough that most of you know that I won't pull punches if I think a product has any shortcomings. There is so very little room for improvement in this razor's design a mouse could starve on the difference.

    Edit TLDR:

    Shave was BBS in one pass, even on the neck, one blood spot, no weepers.

    Razor: Essence by Tedalus
    Blade: vintage Polsilver
    Brush: Custom Wolf Whiskers/Shavemac D01
    Soap: Saponifico Verisino Felce Aromatica
    Aftershave: Derby City Chop Shop Winter Reserve shave tonic
    Cologne: Polo Ralph Lauren Double Black
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2021
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  19. Edison Carter

    Edison Carter Well-Known Member

    Well written.

    I’m glad you contributed to design inputs.

    Looking forward to mine even more.
     
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  20. snuff

    snuff Well-Known Member

    Great review, you're much better with words than I. This might indeed not be for everybody but although some people might find the price on the high side there is very little wiggle room there, I followed most of the steps in the production process and what with the thousands of hours work, things going wrong in factories that produced parts, redesigning etc .... it's just impossible to make a limited run for less money.

    But if you consider that a straight razor enthousiast who wants a modern straight razor is also looking at a similar price point. That is if he doesn't want something like a Iwasaki or customs made razor.

    Looking forward to hear impressions once people start to receive the shavette.
     
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