The secret to consistently great shaves

Discussion in 'General Shaving Talk' started by Hercule, Jul 31, 2021.

  1. BamaT

    BamaT Well-Known Member

    Good point….live and learn!
     
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  2. PLANofMAN

    PLANofMAN Eccentric Razor Collector Staff Member

    Moderator Article Team
    I've heard that story, though without the preamble. Good one.
     
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  3. PLANofMAN

    PLANofMAN Eccentric Razor Collector Staff Member

    Moderator Article Team
    10 things I wish I'd known about wet shaving 15 years ago, and 1 thing I wished I'd known about people. Edit: and 1 more weird thing. Edit 2: thought of one more. Edit 3: one last one.

    1. Thick 'barbasol' style shave lather is mostly for "pretty" SOTD pictures and videos. Thin and slick is far more effective, and won't clog your razor as easily.
    Edit: I was mostly talking about the thickness of lather on the face. It just needs to cover the stubble, not make you look like Santa Claus.

    2. Not all brushes are created equal. I missed out on five years of using badger brushes because I assumed all badger brushes were floppy after trying one. (A deep set two-band badger is just as scrubby as a good boar brush).

    3. Leave the cover off the soap for a day. It will help the soap dry out (especially if you rotate soaps) and it makes the bathroom smell nice.

    4. If a razor is too "aggressive," when you are just starting out, don't immediately sell it. Chances are, you will grow into the razor as you develop technique. It might take a few years, but you won't regret it later.

    5. Always keep one aftershave that you really like and your significant other doesn't. If you get mad at each other, you can wear it to show her you're still upset and keep hurtful words unspoken.

    6. When you figure out what kind of brush you like, have a custom brush made. Yes, it can be expensive, but if you don't abuse it, it will last at least 20 years. The joy you get from owning and using that brush will far outweigh just about anything else you could have spent that money on.

    7. Own or at least try a Gillette adjustable. Even if you don't like the razor, it will give you a good idea of the different levels of aggression of other razors, since most people, when talking about other razors, and especially other Gillette razors, can say "it shaves like an adjustable set at ...."

    8. Try Feather blades early in your wet shaving journey. They aren't the 'cut your head off if you look at them wrong' blades they are made out to be, and like the Gillette adjustables do for other razors, make a pretty good baseline to compare other blades to.

    9. There is no universal razor that everyone will like.

    10. Ditto for blades.

    10.5. There is no perfect blade that will work in every razor. (Astra SP comes close...) Experiment. Most people like sharp blades in mild razors and smooth blades in aggressive razors. Sharp and smooth is a sliding scale.

    11. Be kind in your posts. If people have the capacity to hate people they have never met or know, the opposite is also true. You can love people you've never met. We all bleed red when we nick ourselves.

    12. When you first get in the shower, you cup your hands against your chest like a bowl, fill them with water and then let it drop. I just want you to know, most guys do that. You're not alone.

    13. It's called 'wet shaving' for a reason. Splash water on your face before applying lather, and do so for each pass. The layer of water helps cushion your skin from the blade and adds a bit of slickness.

    14. In this day and age, when everyone is considered equal, it's important to remember that blades don't care about that. If your skin color is on the darker spectrum of the Crayola crayon box, your curly beard hair is prone to ingrown hairs. Don't chase the baby butt, use a mild razor and settle for good enough. A man shouldn't have to suffer scarring from ingrown hairs just to have a clean shaven face.

    15. The nose is flexible, people. Don't be afraid to move it around if it's in the way.

    Peace out! ✌
     
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  4. chazt

    chazt Methuselah Shaver

    Well, fine. I’ll share.

    Shave with proper lighting. People don’t usually mention this, but if you can’t see your face clearly and easily in the mirror, the rest of your efforts are moot.

    Get to know your gear intimately.

    Map your beard. In areas that are prone to irritation, initially shave only with the grain. Don’t be concerned with bbs. You can shave again tomorrow. When your technique has improved (see? there’s that dirty “practice” word again) you can try an xtg pass. Unless you have the lightest touch in the history of shaving, until you’ve achieved proficiency, don’t shave atg under your nose.

    Wash your face thoroughly. Cold water. Hot water will screw with your capillaries and make you more prone to irritation and weepers.

    Face lathering for a few minutes will soften your whiskers while you have all that good face lathering fun. Seriously. I’d rather create a great lather on my skin than in a bowl.

    Use a fresh, clean and sharp blade as often as your budget will allow. Don’t try to stretch the serviceable life of any razor blade. Lately I’ve taken to the one and done school of thought. You’ll be starting each shave with the sharpest blade possible.

    Do stretch your skin.

    Take your time. Don’t rush through your shave.

    Shave slowly with short strokes.

    Use a high quality soap. I’m very fond of tallow soaps. I’ve also learned recently that (for me) high end creams make (for me) a better, more luxurious and protective lather than do less expensive creams.

    Rinse your face between passes. It hydrates and lets you feel areas that require extra attention.

    Use a good aftershave. For years I simply rinsed with cold water and eschewed splashes, thinking they were unnecessary. I was wrong.

    If you’ve had a rough shave, four words… unrefined organic Shea butter. It’s a skin saver, especially during the winter when the air is cold and dry.

    Hope it helps.

    P.S. practice makes perfect ;)
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2021
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  5. brit

    brit in a box

    :happy097:..awesome..
     
  6. wristwatchb

    wristwatchb wristwatch "danger" b

    For me, skin stretching, using the blade correct angle, and no pressure have been game changers in the quality of my shaves. I recently gave a shaving set up to a friend, who is a new DE shaver, and this is what I shared with him:

    Google “Mantic59 Ten Minute Traditional Wet Shave” for tutorial YouTube video.

    Determine the direction (grain) of your beard growth. 1st pass is generally with the grain (WTG). 2nd pass is either across the grain (XTG) or against the grain (ATG). Aim for partial beard reduction on each pass.

    Soak the shaving brush bristles in warm water before use to hydrate and soften them.

    Prep beard with soap and warm water for at least a minute.

    Top cap and base plate are threaded onto the handle. Securely load a new blade into the razor. Blade exposure should be even on both sides of the razor head.

    Face lather with your shaving brush. Start by using an almond-sized portion of shaving cream, or load bristles with soap by swirling them on the puck for 45 seconds or so. Incorporate water slowly by wetting the tips of the bristles. Face lathering allows you to continue prepping your beard for the shave. Lathering should take 1 to 2 minutes once you become proficient.

    Rinse your razor under the tap before use to warm it up.

    Use just enough pressure to hold the blade edge against the skin. Do not press blade against skin.

    Fix your wrist to hold a steady (~30 degree) blade angle. When blade angle is correct, there is no tugging or scraping. Use the blade edge to gently “wipe” the lather from your face. Use both edges of the blade and rinse as necessary.

    Use short and slightly overlapping strokes; no strokes over un-lathered skin.

    Divide face into sections and shave over flat areas (like the facets of a diamond). Use your off-hand to gently stretch your skin while shaving.

    Perform a WTG pass and stop shaving. Re-lather and add passes as required for additional closeness once you become proficient.

    Change blade after three shaves. Otherwise, leave the blade in the razor between uses, rinse, and leave it in the stand to air dry.

    Rinse, gently towel dry, and fluff the bristles after use. Stand the brush up, and let it air dry between uses.

    Perform aftershave routine to rinse, close up nicks, and moisturize.

    Use Scrubbing Bubbles or Dawn and a soft toothbrush to clean soap residue from razor as needed when changing blade.
     
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  7. wristwatchb

    wristwatchb wristwatch "danger" b

    USB is a game changer in my skin care routine too. I also search out products with a purity certification. It's worth the couple extra nickels to me. :happy088:
     
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  8. Tedolph

    Tedolph Well-Known Member

    I don't think there is any "one thing". I think everything helps incrementally. I know if I want to get my best shave it is necessary to do a lot of things:
    1. Do a hot towel pre-shave treatment even if I have just come out of the shower.
    2. Make my lather in a bowl lather rather than on my face.
    3. Use my best soap (right now either Fine Accoutrements old formula or Cella).
    4. Use my SR for the first two passes and my SE Valet Auto Strop for the third touch up pass.
    5. Do a cold compress after the third pass.
    6. Use Clubman Classic aftershave-it gives great post shave feel without being greasy like a balm.

    Doing all of those things gives the best shave and each is essential.

    Oh, and one "don't":
    Don't ever, ever buff. Only long straight strokes.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2021
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  9. IAmTheJody

    IAmTheJody Gillette-i Master Staff Member

    I really hope you don't make your lather in your bowels.......
    :rofl::rofl::scared003::scared007:
     
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  10. Paul Turner

    Paul Turner outside the quote(s) now

    Just a Froidian slip. (sorry, Sigmund Frood).
     
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  11. Paul Turner

    Paul Turner outside the quote(s) now

    Well done, Charlie.
     
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  12. IAmTheJody

    IAmTheJody Gillette-i Master Staff Member

    Floyd-ian slip?
    848079433.png

    Floid-ian slip?
    yhst-16445739206724_2271_28054659__20428_22c4cc14-8356-4082-b0c7-2619b6d780c0_1024x1024.jpeg

    Which Floyd?
    Floyd_1.jpg
    8VFle-1555515972-13385-list_items-andy_character_floyd_copy.jpg
     
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  13. Tedolph

    Tedolph Well-Known Member

    I keep a very clean toilet.
     
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  14. Paul Turner

    Paul Turner outside the quote(s) now

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  15. Paul Turner

    Paul Turner outside the quote(s) now

    My goodness...how can I top THAT?
     
  16. Terry

    Terry Tool Admirer

    Compared to most here I am very new to the game.
    I'm at the viewpoint that technique trumps tools, for the most part.
    Let me explain.
    For consistency in anything I do, be it repair work or installation work, I need consistency in tools, materials and test equipment.

    One thing I've learned is I need a consistently sharp blade.
    Yes I can get more shaves than one from a blade, but it wouldn't be as sharp or comfortable.
    A feather blade is as sharp as it will ever be right out of the wrapper, so for consistency sake, that's what I use.

    Also the shaving lather needs to be as constant as possible too.
    I've found that using a bowl to stir up my lather won't get me there.
    So I skin lather unless I use something like tobs or a hard soap.
    I put the hard soap puck in the bottom of the mug to get my brush loaded.
    Soft soap I swirl my brush righting the container.
    I loadmy brush heavy and create the lather right on the skin.
    Me trying to get the proper consistency.... for me.

    I like to use the @twhite DEvett because I can get a consistent angle.
    Some razors I can get the angel right, others not so much.
    The R41 for instance, is a razor that, before I get the angle I want, the head design lifts the blade off the skin.
    I like a shallow angle, otherwise the blade pulls and tugs.
    The R41 is one of a few razor that I can't get the right angle of attack.
    Therfore the R41 never gives me a comfortable shave.

    Before all of that, you'd think I'd do a big prep of shower and goo, but you'd be wrong.
    I used too, but no more, like a safety bar on a razor, it's not really needed.
    Just a splash of water before the brush touches the skin.
    I found that the correct lather, a sharp blade with the right attack angle and light pressure, is all that counts.

    I load the blade in the weapon of choice the night before.
    In the morning I wake up, walk 10 or 12 steps to the bathroom.
    Turn on the water to fill the sink .
    While the sink fills up with warm water I get my brush wet an load it up.
    Splash on some water, lather up and shave away.
    I normally get the face shaved from the time my feet hit the floor to done, in 3 to 5 minutes.
    The head shave takes about 5 to 6 minutes, start to finish.
    This using my favorite DEvette, some other razors take a little while longer.
    Mosty because it takes 2 passes where the DEvette only takes one pass to get where I like.
    That's where, technique over tools, for the most part, applies.
    I admit it has been quite a journey and lots of practice and trying different things to get here, but well worth it.
    I shave every day both head and face.
    Lots and lots uh practice.

    A consistent job well done.
    Every day.

    I won't recommend shaving like this to anyone.
    But I do recommend trying different things till you're satisfied.
    Good luck!!!
    Shave on.
    And
    Enjoy!

    tp
     
  17. Hercule

    Hercule Active Member

    I really didn't intend this thread to be multi step tutorials on how to shave but to highlight those 1 or 2 things people have stumbled on that have made all the difference. Well intended as I am sure they are, there certainly are more enough "how to" threads elsewhere around here and most reading this are pretty much already set on what and how to do it.

    I recently bought my first "modern" razor, and as a result of a snafu with the seller I ended up with 2 razors. So in the process of figuring out which will work best for me I've been doing a lot of experimentation of late. Barring having stumbled on to an ideal razor/blade combination, what has made all the difference, I think, has been using shampoo for shave prep. It seems to soften the stubble very effectively and the resulting shaves have been consistently great. A small dab does it. Rub it in and after a bit wash it off or even lather on top of it. Oddly enough, and perhaps contrary to what one might think, using conditioner didn't have the same effect. Though further experimentation is warranted.
     
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  18. Tedolph

    Tedolph Well-Known Member


    Well, we told you that there just isn't "one or two things". We told you that if you want a really good shave you have to do a lot of things. Why do you think Italian barbers do all that stuff if it really isn't necessary? Sorry if that doesn't validate your pre-conceived ideas, and I mean that sincerely-not trying to be offensive here.

    Now if you ask us to prioritize what is the most important of those multiple things maybe we could do that.
     
  19. Paul Turner

    Paul Turner outside the quote(s) now

    Great stuff, Terry. Do you wet your brush in the water that's already in the sink, or under the tap as it is coming?
     
    Terry likes this.
  20. Hercule

    Hercule Active Member

    So in all the time you've been shaving NOTHING has stood out as making a difference? You've NEVER stumbled across something that changed your shave for the better? You've NEVER had a "wow" moment? Every shave for you is just a matter of going through a procedural check list?

    Don't give me this "validate pre-conceived ideas" baloney. I'm trying to start threads that stimulate conversation and actually share acquired experience and knowledge. I suppose if you prefer to post lists pictures and of you daily this or "what did you use today" that, then you're welcome to have that. Maybe I'll start a thread "show us today's stubble left in your sink." It would seem that I've been spending time in the wrong place. Now there's an epiphany.
     

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