Over the past year and especially in the past few months, I've almost neglected every razor I own except for three, those being the Merkur Progress, the 34C and the 37C.



They are distinct enough from one another that I don't feel they necessarily overlap or replicate each other.

The 34C



I'm guilty of initially writing the 34C off as a "starter razor". I've had it for years and when first trying it, thought it was too mild. Mild razors can be perfectly effective, especially with good blade selection, lather and technique. Not long ago I needed to try it once more but this time, did something I had not done before, I loaded it with a Feather blade. All of a sudden the once neglected 34C became a fantastic daily shaver. I get 2 to 3 solid, smooth shaves each blade. The Feather actually feels like it was made for the 34C (or vice-versa).

The 37C



The 37C expands on the efficiency of the 34C and permits me to use more blade brands effectively and with a denser lather (less gap clogging) while providing a very smooth, close and easy shave. I have a vintage Hoffritz and a couple other slants (Parker, Fatip), but the 37C just nails it.

The Progress



I've got numerous high end stainless and titanium 3 piece razors, but in my hands, the 2 piece Progress out-shaves them all. How? I don't know. I suppose Merkur nailed the head geometry, while permitting stepless gap adjustment. I can throw in either an Astra SP or SS, keep the gap set to minimum (knob turned all the way clockwise), and it's flawless, efficient autopilot shaving ahead. In fact, for me the Progress is almost completely blade agnostic. Most any blade I load works great, even those I don't care for in other razors. During one longevity experiment several years ago, I completed 43 consecutive daily shaves using the Progress and a 7O'clock Super Stainless blade. By the 43rd shave it was adjusted out to about a "4" and I just got bored and quit.

So, if you're like me and your "beginner razors" ended up in the back of the drawer in favor of the latest and greatest, my recommendation is get them out for another spin sometime. And if you're brand new to DE razors and traditional brush and soap shaving, you don't need to break the bank to get something that will serve you well for a long time. Hope everyone has a great DE day!!

Excellent report, Lane!

Thank you sir!

From the ~80 razors I've used, only the blackbird and progress remain in my den.

The progress is a very special razor. The head geometry is perfection as it gives me the efficiency I need and super comfy on my skin.

Hardly any razors have achieved this balance for me. I'll always have the progress in my den!

Started with the 34C, and went head over heels for the Progress. Many razors later, I agree; the Progress performs just as well and even better than other very expensive razors.

Outstanding and my feelings about that razor as well. What is crazy is I had it years ago, then basically ignored it. Truth be told if I only had one razor that would be the one!

Exactly!

@LaneP
Very nice review, and great pikkies thanks for that.

I am a newbie to DE razors and this (excellent) forum and thinking of trying an adjustable at some stage in the future. The Progress fits the bill dollar wise, so for me this is a timely review.

I wonder if you or anyone else would like to comment on the handle which looks kind of smooth to my inexperienced eye.

My Muhle R89 is a bit slippery and needs towelling off between passes, but my Rocca R94 ss black feels better. The handles are interchangeable.

I reckon the Progress handle mechanism means this cannot be swapped out?

Is this an issue for anyone?

Hi Chris,

I never have an issue with the Progress handle being slippery. I suppose it may be possible to slip though, if you have lather on your fingers while holding it, but that can be mitigated by using the reduced diameter area just below the baseplate as a resting area for one of the gripping fingers, or ensuring you are toweling the fingers briefly before picking up the razor.

You are correct, the Progress has a fixed, non-interchangeable handle. Some people have sold the razor with aftermarket adjuster knobs made of other materials such as stainless steel instead of the stock plastic. However, I have no problem with the plastic adjuster knob either functionally or aesthetically and rather like it actually.

Coincidentally, I am using the Progress this week after having used the excellent 37C for several straight weeks.

Hi Lane, thanks for the prompt reply! I think this is something I will add to my wish list, maybe wait for some Boxing Day discounts, by then I should be a bit more up to speed with technique. The plastic knob doesn't phase me in the least, kind of retro look to it, which is nice. And your tips about holding it are neat too.

I have a sample pack of blades so should be able to find the best one for me, but I like your comment about it being "blade agnostic", most encouraging!

Thanks again!

If the white knob was classy enough for Mercedes Benz through decades of the 20th century, . . .

Hi Lane just revisiting this thread again.

That exactly answers one of my questions elsewhere about "opening up" the Progress as the blades get older, I think I missed that point in reading this thread before.

I've dedicated Jan 2023 to the Progress and so far doing well I think anyway. As you said.. no problems with the handle at all. I am doing Pass 1 on "3" then Pass 2 on "2" then down to "1" for Pass 3 and buffing. Currently using Wilkinson Sword seems quite safe, even set at "3" compared to the Astra SP which is my other commonly used blade.

Still impressed you got to the 43rd shave! Was there any tugging at that stage, I wonder? I haven't tried that particular blade you mentioned.

Hey Chris,

Thanks for your thoughts on this great razor.

Yes during my 43 shave endurance test the blade held up pretty well but I definitely found myself adding more pressure as well as incrementally increasing the gap as tugging increased (but still not horrible). I bet I could have even gone a few more but I decided the better of it and called it quits.

For me, the Progress is near the very top of my favorites and one I can count on to deliver no matter the blade I choose, a very remarkable feat in design and a credit to Merkur.

Thanks again!

Fantastic thread with great posts and pics!
I don't own a Merkur yet but have so much respect for the company and what they produce. They're legendary in shaving circles.
Thanks for filling me in on your experiences.

I've been using my Modern Merkur Progress recently. First time in a long time since I've used it and it definitely is a well tuned shaving razor. You get plenty of blade feel but not the harshness that goes along with it. The shave reminds me of how a Cooper Monobilt shaves but is more efficient than that razor. With that said the best modern adjustable I currently have is still a Rex Ambassador but I could live with only the Merkur Progress as a daily shaver if I had to. I plan to give my vintage Merkur Progress a spin next to see how much if any they've changed the razor since then.

Funny when I first got in to DE shaving I avoided any razor that was remotely zamak but eventually I picked up a 34C ..... then another and enjoyed them immensely. In the past month I purchased two Progresses (500 and the 510) and then by chance two Hoffritz slants. All in great shape and for great price.

Thank you for the enabling.

I used my vintage Merkur Progress earlier today. I can date it to at least sometime between 78 and 84 based upon how it is made. The razor is more aggressive at the same adjustment. End result suprisingly is not much better. Both made it over the BBS finish line the vintage was a little closer but at the expense of much more razor burn and a layer of skin removed. I know dialing the modern one up to 5 or even a full revolution from closed won't produce a better result since I've done it already than at 3 like these shaves were compared at. The people at Dovo really managed to finely thread a proverbial needle on this most modern iteration being just enough aggressive but not over the line when fully opened up.

The Progress is a fantastic shaver, but I abandoned it for the 2011 Muhle R41.

Before I abandoned the Progress though, I did install a stack of rubber O rings from the hardware store to improve the grip. There may be some pics around here, but maybe not.

I also installed a BRW knob in place of the stock knob, but then removed and traded it for something that I can't remember, after adopting the R41 as my daily driver.

Anyway, I would recommend anyone try a Progress; it is a fantastic shaver.

@LaneP. Re-reading this thread, great comment here: another thing learnt. Nice comment about being able to used denser lather with your 37C. Up to now I have been judging my lather by how easily it rinses out of the gap, too thick = clogs, too thin = does not clog, but not the best skin protection. Need to learn to adjust this to the razor, or in the case of the Progress the settings used.

@BBS I like my Modern Merkur Progress, I think the thread that screws the head into the handle is likely also Zamac, would that be right? The Rex Adjustable is on my "drool" list, maybe one day. Do you think it has better build quality than the Modern Progress perhaps? I haven't come across a vintage Progress yet.

@BBS. I see the Progress does go back a few decades. My question is can you see any notable difference in build quality of your vintage ones compared to the modern ones? I don't see (m)any of these for sale, but based on what I read here the only reason to buy an older one (at a good price) would be build quality, not shave quality. My own Progress 500 is one I love but the thread is showing some sign of use, not wear, just some discolouration, even after only using it for 2 -3 months and then not every day. I suspect at some stage it might need replacing.

Nice thread, very useful.

Vintage and modern Merkur Progress are about the same build wise if anything the modern ones are a little heavier in the hand. The modern ones also are calibrated so the adjustment knob lines up correctly with the dot on the handle when fully tightened. Vintage ones aka all made prior to 2016 the adjustment knob is all over the place. The Progress razor dates back to 1955. The handle and knob design even further with the Walbusch B5 slant razor.

Rex is built better than either but is also more so a modern Gillette Fat Boy made out of SS that shaves like a Gibbs.

As far as the threads being Zamac I have no idea.

The original one I had lasted about 7 years before I dropped it and broke beyond repair. No issues with plating or anything like that.

Some history

Ad from 1956


Older photo I took of the vintage Merkur I have along side a Walbusch B5 I used to own. You can see how similar the base handle and knob design is.