I have a Van Der Hagen, inexpensive butterfly DE razor, and I really like it. It was inexpensive, and I have been using it for virtually every shave for more than half a year however, in the last couple of weeks it has quit performing like it should. Specifically, it locks up tight and fails to close or open. I need to use a pair of pliers to operate the flaps. I sprayed some penetrating oil in it and that helped, but internally I suspect it is a corroded, rusted mess. For sure the only stainless steel is external so it looks nice. What do you recommend I replace it with? I want something of similarly agressive, higher quality, and new. The budget is up to 3x what a new Vander Hagen would cost. I am 6'3" and have slightly larger than normal hands, so a big, knurled handle would be awesome.
Check out a Parker 99R. Well-made, inexpensive, and fits well in a large hand. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003NTHWLU/?tag=thshde-20
You might like the long handled Gillette Super 109. They do come up in mint condition if that's a must-have for you. Aggressiveness is adjustable to your liking. Would be well worth the investment, as long as you pay no more than, say, 75 bucks at most, mint in the case.
More like four times the price of a Van Der Hagen but you won't regret your purchase. Merkur Progress 510 Believe me it's nice.
If it has to be new and knurled, look at the Rockwell 6C, around $60. It would let you choose between 6 different levels of aggressiveness. The 6S would be a buy-it-for-life version of the 6C. If it also needs to be a TTO like the VdH, then I second the Parker 99R recommendation. If you are OK with Vintage, then shop for a Gillette Slim or 1940's style SuperSpeed. They can look like hell when you buy them, but they clean up nicely with a little TLC.
If you really like the Van Der Hagen razor you had but want something with a bigger handle, they make one with 110mm handle vs the 85mm handle which is the one that is sold in places like Walmart. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B8GNBMB/?tag=thshde-20
You can get Gillette Slim adjustable razors in good shape for $25.00 or less. A Schick Krona can be had for less. Just need to do a good search on Ebay.
I can't speak to how well they shave but Viking makes razors with some heft to them. You have the Chieftain and for adjustables the Emperor and Crusader razors.
Pretty much a time tested design, Merkur has used that basic design almost unchanged since the 1950s. That razor is like the Volkswagon Beetle of DE razors.
I pulled out my one of my Merkur Progess, modern one made after 2016ish and used it today. At a 2 1/2 setting with a fresh sharp blade this thing is mild and sings when cutting but gets the job done. With that said I'd probably have to use it at a 3 to 3 1/2 setting with worn in blades or less sharp out of the box blades. The razor is definitely a winner and also a consideration is the longer handle version if this one doesn't have good hand feel. Price range on the shorter handle versions range between $65 - $90 depending the vendor and/or if it comes with a travel case and blades.
I purchased a Parker 99R and shaved with it today with an Astra SP blade. I didn't open the Parker blades that came with it because I wanted to try something that came with it. My experience: 1. I like the handle a LOT. It's big and has some weight. It doesn't feel cheap like the VDH. The mechanism works beautifully! 2. It seems a bit more aggressive for the first path I think I like the VDH better. 3. For the follow-up finishing path this is a better razor for sure. My first shave I rode the cap but used it with confidence and had very few nicks. Really, I got a great shave and am quite happy. In fact, I look forward to my next shave with it.
I'm not really into TTO razors so, not much help there. The older Gillettte's, Edwin Jagger DE89, and Muhle R89 are all good options for someone wanting a good reliable safety razor that isn't too aggressive for most people.
The shaves are getting even better…. Currently on a Wilkinson Sword blade third shave. What made the difference is preheating my beard hair wirh hot water on a wash cloth. It seems to make the shave go smoother.
Yep, softening your whiskers from a shower or warm washcloth makes cutting them easier in my experience.
