’Dimanche’ from the Touron 7-day set was up for honing for tomorrow’s Sunday shave. I thought that I’d share how I did this one, and will do the others, since like the Joseph Rodgers Tiffany set, these are irreplaceable. There’s not going to be any wide, ugly, bevels on these.
The first step was to mike the spine and measure the bevel angle. It’s always best to have a firm knowledge foundation before you start removing irreplaceable steel. The spine had no visible wear on it and was an even 0.230” end to end, which likely confirms that the razor had never been used. 0.230” is surprisingly thick, a new Filarmonica 14 is typically about 0.225”. The blade width to where the calipers hit was 0.67” which yielded a bevel angle of 18.9 degrees. This is likely a factory bevel, made with the spine off the hone, so it’s not likely a ‘native’ bevel according to the spine width.
My job here is to preserve the appearance, so first I taped the spine with one layer of 1 mil Kapton (now about 19.5 degrees), Sharpied the bevel and made a few passes to see how the bevel width would develop. It actually looked pretty good but was getting a little wider at the heel, so I went with 2 layers of Kapton, 20.6 degrees. This is more angle than I want, but it’s OK to use an extra layer, then pull one and re-set the bevel later, once the new bevels are cut from the factory bevels.
My progression was a 2k Shapton HR, a 3k Shapton HR, an 8k Shapton HC, and a JNat. I actually started with the 3k and one layer then went to the 2k with 2 layers and back up. Staying with the 3k would have taken a bit longer. The steel is hard and fine grained, there were no edge artifacts from honing at any grit, just a straight even edge, like most vintage French steel.
Success! I’m ready for a Sunday shave.
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