Quick Restoration Question

Discussion in 'Razor Restoration' started by Spirit_of_76, Jun 20, 2007.

  1. Spirit_of_76

    Spirit_of_76 Yardley Ninja

    The phrase don't try to run before you can walk springs to mind here, I have already tried my hand at scale making and managed to ruin a whole order of snakewood blanks before finally achieving a passable finished product (no one told me how easy it was to crack the damned stuff.)
    Anyhow I digress, I was wondering if any of the restoration experts here (Bill, cutz, Garythepenman or Joe C in particular) had ever tried French Polishing as a means of finishing a razor? I have found some pictures of some fantastic French Polished mahogany link and would like to try something similiar once (more accurately if) I get better at making scales.
    Do you think something like this would be do-able on a set of scales?
    Do you envision any problems with this finish given the amount of use a razor gets and the volume of water it may come into contact with?
    Would it still be possible to use a CA finish on a razor that had been french polished?
    I have read a number of FAQ's on the subject, and given enough practice I don't think it would be exceptionally difficult to do, just curious if anyone with more experience can think of any problems I may be overlooking.

    Regards,
    Alex
     
  2. Bill

    Bill Man of Steel

  3. C utz

    C utz New Member

    :eek:
    Sweet-Mary! That is some great lookin' wood!!!
    (If you get some sections of this to make scales, let me know!!)

    Thanks for including me as one of the 'restoration guys'!

    Personally, I'd follow Bill's lead if not sure. I, myself, do not know all that much and first fumble through trying to figure things out before I look into 'how to'. I'm one of those unfortunate fellows that does not read the directions first, and only fall to them as a last resort :D However, I do learn a lot more my way (especially what NOT to do).

    I guess what I'm trying to say is, I don't know if CA over the french polish is necessary. I'm impression is that it is not....and that if water is a concern (and this sometimes baffles me, because I rarely get much water on my scales. I try to keep the water to the blade, and not splash around that much), I'd rub some renaissance wax, or some similar product.

    That's just me making noise though....

    C utz
     
  4. Spirit_of_76

    Spirit_of_76 Yardley Ninja

    I knew I'd missed someone out when I did my list of restoration guys. So apologies to bg42 if your omission caused any offence.
    Thanks for your replies Bill and Cutz.
    Cutz, I'm exactly the same as you. I have nothing but respect for the guys who've really made a name for themselves restoring razors, but I have an almost perverse inability to follow directions. I'll always try to do things "my way" first, even if I don't have a clue what I'm doing, you definitely learn what not to do that much quicker! For example, I now know not to cut Snakewood too thin or it will crack:rofl
    That being said, any information I do have was cobbled together from what I learned reading through Bill's old posts on the restoration sub-forum over on SRP. Buying a copy of the restoration CD-ROM is at the top of my to-do list.
    I'll porbably leave off buying the Novak Mahogany until I have a few more successful projetcs under my belt, but I'll let you know when I get some.
    Regards,
    Alex
     
  5. C utz

    C utz New Member

    Funny you should mention that! (AND, good to know)
    Just last night I was rough cutting a set of scales out of a section of ironwood (with a coping saw and a pivoting vise), and the wood began to split along the grain!

    SO, thinking of how I could remedy the situation, and avoid this on the other scale rough-cut, I took some epoxy (T-88) and coated one side of the wood (the opposite side that I have the template traced out on). I'm thinkin' that this way, when I cut the design out, the wood might be less likely to split, AND when I sand down the scales the epoxy will be removed :D

    We'll see tonight what comes of my lack of really knowing what I'm doing...

    C utz
     
  6. Spirit_of_76

    Spirit_of_76 Yardley Ninja

    That too is good to know, worth trying on troublesome woods
    My solution to the cracking problem was a lot less practical, and certainly less clever. I glued my liner material (aluminium) straight onto a thicker blank and then jigsawed around it to get my scales.
    It stopped the cracking on the scales, but the jigsaw tore the aluminium up really badly so I had to hand sand it. I got a really cool bevelled edge on my liner material without even planning for it! Of course if anyone asks I didn't just stumble blindly into it, it was intentional from the start:rolleyes:
    Regards,
    Alex
     
  7. sysiphus

    sysiphus Member

    A "traditional" French polish is made with shellac, one of the least 'water friendly' finishes you can find. It is a beautiful finish, but, as it is usually waxed, I think even the steam from a bathroom, or the moisture on your hands would caise it to soften. I know zip-zero-nada about straight razor scales, so take this with a grain of salt.

    Shellac/wax on a table is the reason for coasters "so you don't leave a ring".

    Putting CA over a French polish would kill the sense of 'depth', IMHO.
     
  8. Spirit_of_76

    Spirit_of_76 Yardley Ninja

    And just like that the dream is over! I had worried about the durability of the finish but hadn't done any real research into the nature of the product.
    Is there any particular reason you think that CA would compromise the French polish?
    CA always seems to increase the chattoyance on the wooden scales that I have seen, but obviously this says nothing about it's ability to work over Shellac. Anyone else care to comment?

    Regards,
    Alex
     
  9. sysiphus

    sysiphus Member

    On CA from woodcentral.com. This is in relation to pen finishing on a lathe, but I think it has some use here.
    I think (and this is just my un-tested opinion) that a CA finish has to "penetrate" the wood somewhat, and a fully (French) polished piece would stop that from happening. CA appears to me as a 'coating' on a piece, whereas a "natural" finish--oil, shellac, wax, etc. becomes a part of the piece.

    As far as compromizing the French polish: It shouldn't damage the nature of the polish, I just think you would not realize the "depth" of the French polish under the glossy "shell" of CA. Will CA bond to shellac? Yes. Will CA heighten, lessen, or have no effect on the shellac finish? I say it will lessen it. YMMV

    When I start making scales, I'll probably go more "old school" on wood. BLO/Danish Oil with a waterproof poly or lacquer.
     
  10. Bill

    Bill Man of Steel

    I use a variety of finishes. CA is one of my favorites. I just like the depth it has. The down side is that it can give the material underneath a fake appearance. Remember, it is a glue, and a very good one. So, I don't know if it needs to penetrate very much. I use the super thin stuff, so it will lend itself to capillary action. As far as CA being a part of the material it is attached to, I can safely say it will not fall off.

    And somehow, I just can't see yellow heart without it...

    [​IMG]
     
  11. sysiphus

    sysiphus Member

    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ What he said!

    I will definitely defer to a master of the craft!
     

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