A&B Cosmetics

Discussion in 'Shave Soaps' started by ischiapp, May 26, 2023.

  1. ischiapp

    ischiapp New Product Bloodhound

    From the passion of a professional chemist for classic shaving, born A&B Cosmetics.
    Fortunately, this person has a chemical company near Perugia.
    Where it makes nutraceutical and pharmaceutical production.
    So a different level of skills.

    I was immediately fascinated.
    The apparent simplicity conceals a gem.
    In fact there is a wealth of technical details.
    Which unfortunately don’t show up in the INCI.

    These are some examples.
    I report the ingredients list and the olfactory pyramid:
    • Bois Aromatique
    • Essence
    • Mint & Flowers
    • Ribera

    But the current production is much wider.
    It consists of seven models, plus an LE produced for the Barber Era.
    All sold in combination sets, with a luxury packaging worthy of the product.

    Thanks to a circle of acquaintances, I had the pleasure of getting in touch with the owner Andrea Bianchi.
    In addition to receiving very interesting information from a technical point of view, I borrow some sets.

    I can’t wait to start this trip.
    Discovering an Italian excellence.
    More to come ...
  2. ischiapp

    ischiapp New Product Bloodhound

    I had to start over with this soap.
    From the basics, to focus the ABC of lathering.
    Which also happens to be the acronym for the brand.

    This Ribera is the 22.12 base of December 2022.
    This range will be coming to base 23 shortly.
    In fact, the current version is not for newbies.

    Very technical, requires understanding two basic concepts:
    • the amount of water
    • the temperature

    Thanks to the suggestions I received, I had no difficulty.
    But it still took a long time, compared to my standards.
    In fact, this base requires a lot of water.
    Also at first hard butters have to be warmed.
    So I used the sink as a Scuttle. I don’t use a bowl.

    Another detail to consider with technical products.
    Do not load into the container, and take a given amount of product.
    In my case, this being the first contact, I used two grams.
    That is an enormity ... but it was useful to work in sure excess.
    This amount in about ten minutes of assembly, took about twelve grams of water.
    All with seven successive additions, to achieve the desired density.
    That doesn’t sound like much. But it’s a lot.

    On the other hand, at the third pass according to the classical technique, I had a large amount of lather for at least two more passes.
    Lather that obviously remained dense and pearlescent until the end.
    In fact, it has an excellent structure with micro bubbles, very resistant.
    The same applies to lubrication. Both primary and secondary.
    In fact, the high amount of cocoa butter has a similar effect to waxes.

    To finish the lotion gave its fragrance touch.
    Both, even that of soap, in good continuity.
    But without being aggressive, despite their presence.
    After several hours, I still hear the background notes.

    This is the SOTD.
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2023
  3. ischiapp

    ischiapp New Product Bloodhound

    Today I took a step too far.
    A different brush, and a different razor.
    But mostly no aftershave.

    The Simpson does not behave badly, even if it is not a dragon.
    TNNSER3D uses the old GEM, and that’s all you can ask for.
    The fact is that Ribera behaves well, but obviously does no miracles.

    As always, soap can make a difference.
    But not until you undo the shortcomings of the blade.
    As one of my mentors said ... Chemistry DOES NOT exceed Physics.
    In the end, the result is excellent.
    With good comfort, but less durable.
    Tomorrow I’ll have to retrace my steps!!!

    This is the SOTD.
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2023
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  4. ischiapp

    ischiapp New Product Bloodhound

    Last edited: Jun 4, 2023
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  5. ischiapp

    ischiapp New Product Bloodhound

    These days I tried the 22 base with the brushes in pork bristles:
    • SOTD 20230530 - Ribera vs Omega 10077 (22x50mm)
    • SOTD 20230531 - Ribera vs Semoge 1305 (22x55mm)
    • SOTD 20230601 - Bois Aromatique vs Semoge 1305 (22x55mm)

    Negative result.
    Between evil and the worst.
    In the sense of yield, of course.

    With the smallest loft, the result was already unsatisfactory.
    I had to recharge for the last pass. In total about 2 grams.
    With the largest one, the first I used 3 grams and today 4 grams.
    Besides the consumption, the unpleasant consequence was the SLOWNESS.

    The good thing was the fragrance explosion.
    In fact if Ribera is fresh and delicate, Boir Aromatique is bold.
    Actually, I still feel some dry notes.
    After well over 12 hours.
    Lotion excellent.
    Frijolero likes this.
  6. ischiapp

    ischiapp New Product Bloodhound

    Given previous experiences, today I wanted to try the Essence base 23 again with my favorite pig.
    So I abounded (5 grams). Valid result, three canonical passes in full.
    But with the bristle the yield is low. Too much for my taste.

    Last edited: Jun 4, 2023
  7. ischiapp

    ischiapp New Product Bloodhound

    It is definitive. Does not like bristle.
    As always, a great lather and post.
    Today a mixed brush. Small and efficient.
    Good yield. However, the three canonical passes required 3 grams and a lot of work.
    Not very well. I have the badgers left ...

    Last edited: Jun 4, 2023
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  8. ischiapp

    ischiapp New Product Bloodhound

    I had a great time today.
    To speed up comparison with badger hair brushes, I used almost all of them.
    One gram of cream for each, a brush for half face (cheek / neck).
    Two brushes for each of the three canonical passes.
    With all the calm of Sunday. Especially after this video.

    The test is always on the yield, and I must say that the badgers worked well.
    Especially the two Silvertips that, being thinner as fibers, have eaten little soap.
    The sweetest (H. L. Thäter 49125/1) gave the best result.
    By producing more lather faster.
    Far enough beyond for what was the purpose of the test.
    In short, a clear practical indication.

    There remain only the synthetics, which are the preferred ones.
    Both from me, and from the producer ...

    Frijolero likes this.
  9. ischiapp

    ischiapp New Product Bloodhound

    Today I picked up the suggestion of a fellow forumer.

    Valenter@ilRasoio finds the horse better than silvertip.
    Which in his case is Boti’s bleached horsehair.
    Personally with this Vielong I get results similar to yesterday.
    But with a little more soap. Especially with a lot more time.
    A little more soap than Silvertip, the thinner of the two. (Heinrich L. Thäter 49125/1)
    In practice at the same level as the Finest, the thickest one of the lot. (Barcelona Shaving Brushes BSB2)

    By now I’m sure synthetic is the far better choice for this soap.
    I have the feeling that the porosity factor of the fibers is decisive.
    Frijolero likes this.
  10. ischiapp

    ischiapp New Product Bloodhound

    Synthetics Part I

    To the test, all synthetics of the older generation.
    They all behaved well. Better the younger.

    Especially Fibersoft (Pink3) and Cashmere.
    Respectively in position 2 and 4 of the SOTD.

    As always until now, Cashmere is the best for me.
    Balanced in everything, it makes efficiency a standard.
    Lots of foam quickly and easily.

    As before (with rate brushes), same method.
    One gram of soap per brush.
    A brush for each zone, for each pass.
    Except Cashmere, which I always used on my neck.
    Doubling the amount of soap.
    Then two passes (ATG /XTG), with an efficient shaver.

    Each brush produced sufficient amount of foam.
    The best two, even more than necessary.
    As expected, a full success.

    Tomorrow the new generation ...
    Frijolero likes this.
  11. ischiapp

    ischiapp New Product Bloodhound

    Synthetics Part II

    Today my best synthetics, in terms of efficiency.
    Fibers of the latest generation, which also mount the stones.

    I wanted to stress this test.
    So I halved the amount of soap.
    Half a gram each. One brush per quadrant.
    Two canonical passes, against the grain. (ATG / XTG)

    The result was less predictable than I expected.
    Stiffer fibers work better.
    Between the two, especially Simpson Sovereign.
    Also given the density and size of the knot.

    Among the most delicate, Oumo Mother Lode stands out for its quantity.
    Definitely slower, but eventually brings home the same result.
    Same motivation, but being less compact is less rapid.

    I’m curious to compare the best two.
    The old guard (Yaqi Cashmere) and the new recruits (Simpson Sovereign).
    Tomorrow final verdict!!!
    Frijolero likes this.
  12. ischiapp

    ischiapp New Product Bloodhound

    Synthetics MVP

    Odd couplings.
    Laurel and Hardy ... or David and Goliath.

    These are my best with this soap.
    A&B Cosmetics base 23 requires density.
    But also a bit of backbone.

    That’s why the two brushes work well.
    Both are very equlibrati.

    Yaqi SK07 Cashmere is a slightly thicker fiber.
    In fact, what it loses in density, it recovers in massage.

    Simpson Sovereign is a gentle mastodon.
    Density to sell, but with a certain compliance.

    If the first is slightly more effective.
    The second is slightly faster.
    I’d say a fair ex.

    Today I also tried a different way of using soap.
    With a veil of water on the skin, smeared like a moisturizer.
    This allowed me to improve the yield.
    Thanks to the high performance brushes.

    Half a gram each. Simpson on the right, Yaqi on the left.
    Left to warm on the skin, for as long as necessary to prepare.
    In fact even synthetics I leave them to soak hot.
    While I order the rest.

    As I said, substantial equality.
    Although I preferred Trafalgar.
    I think we can go down again.
    He seems to have a good yield.
    In the right condition.

    See tomorrow.
  13. ischiapp

    ischiapp New Product Bloodhound

    Today, the test of the nine.

    The brush worked perfectly.
    But half a gram of soap was just enough.
    Despite the direct application of the veil in the face.
    Two passes, all in reverse. (ATG / XTG)

    Actually, much better than when I started.
    But I thought it could go further.
    On average, ten months of use can be expected.
    For such a [size=x-small]SOFT[/size] soap, it is an excellent result.

    As well as excellent is the post shaving feeling.
    Definitely nourished and toned skin.
    Even without aftershave.

    With aftershave, improves the tightness of the fragrance.
    Being (all sets tested) in good continuity.

    In short, a good experience.
    I thank Aldo Santucci and Andrea Bianchi for their willingness.
  14. ischiapp

    ischiapp New Product Bloodhound

    I got the Bois Aromatique Set again today.
    I think it’s a great fragrance.

    Same technique, a veil of soap on his face.
    But this is more compact, and makes less.
    So I had to load a second time.
    At the end, about a gram of soap.
    For three canonical passes.

    With the addition of aftershave.
    A pleasure that still lasts ...

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