BJ Eyre Challenge Razor Restoration

Well, I'm finally getting off my backside to do some work on some razors that I've been neglecting. So, this is my first full-blown restoration; that is to say, it's doing more than buffing/polishing and honing it.

Below are some photos of my start so far -- sorry no "before" photos -- I didn't think to post this until after I had started. However, I will say that the original scales were trash -- they went into the trash.

Furthermore, the blade point appeared to have been repaired once before; it had an odd slant to it (nothing like a true Irish point), and had a gouge along the very front edge too. I started to just cut it down to a square point, but then had a slip with the dremel. So, a barber notch it will be. :happy102 I'm going to mess a little more with it to clean it up, but I think it's a good start. I used a cutoff wheel to flatten out the slant, and then used a couple different diameters of aluminum oxide cylinders to grind in the notch. My oldest daughter provided some help by dripping water onto the blade while I was grinding.









After starting this project, I decided to let the forum members have a little part in this project (hence the poll). I'm soliciting your opinions to decide which wood to make the scales from for this razor. The listed numbers correspond to the wood in the first photo (left to right). So, if you'd like to see it with ebony, you'd pick "Wood #1." I had to use generic titles because I honestly don't recall what the woods are anymore (except for a few). I originally bought these from Vlad when he was still frequenting the forums and selling these blanks. Anyway, I will let this poll tally the votes. When I'm ready to start making scales, I'll see which one has the most votes, and use that wood.

I'll document the restoration the rest of the way too. Please feel free to make comments/critiques about what you see so far, and as I continue along. Thanks!

 

D'oh! I forgot to adjust the poll closing date. Please vote soon, so I can choose a wood. THANKS!

 

Looking good Chris , I choose the #5 as it looks to have a lot of color to it..

 

Nice job on the refit, Chris! I like a barber notch on a Sheffield blade anyway!

I voted # 2 because I think when worked the grain will look nice!

 

cool razor! ::

I went with #4

 

i vote #4

 

Wood #4 (I think it is cocobolo) is in the lead by one vote as of this post.

Here's some updated photos to show some progress. This is after some sanding at 400 grit. I'm pretty pleased with how the notch has turned out.






Anyone have advice or recommendations on cleaning up these tool marks on the right side of the tip? I'm concerned with changing the blade geometry (like when honing) if I just attempt to sand it out.

 

Chris,

I have a small Delta rotary bench grinder that I fitted with a felt / cotton wheel....I think it's like a 6"-7" diameter that I applied some chromium oxide too....works great for buffing scatches out of jewelry and my wedding band that always gets beat up....perhaps something like that will work for you as well without the worry of removing too much material...

Neale

 

Neale,

Thanks for the link. I've been conidering maybe "building" a grinder on the cheap to help me restore razors. I'm sure the grinder is easier than the dremel that I've been using.

 

Sure Chris ,

The buffing wheels and some polish on them works very well......you have to really hold on to the blades though as it will try and rip it out of your hands. :shocked003 Maybe some padding on the floor too

The blade is looking great BTW

 

Welcome to The Shave Den, badboris!
Glad to have you here.

 

JoAnna, Steve, Neale, thank you for the welcome.

 

the buffer is the most dangerous tool in a workshop

don't ask if it will catch the blade, it's WHEN will it catch it
anybody that works on a buffer had at least once it happened to him, after that, we take this a lot more seriously


the important thing is: DON'T have any part of your body in the trajectory or the rebound

what many do is to turn around the grinder and sharpen from the top of the wheel so it it catches the blade it will be trown away behind the grinder
you can hang a canvas or something soft on the wall so it will not rebound towards you

 

Welcome BadBoris!

Some great tips there.....I like the idea of turning the buffer around and buffing off the top of the wheel...great idea:happy005

Neale

 

Yeah, these buffing wheels can be dangerous tools, so beware!

here's mine. The motor is from an old washing machine, works like a charm :happy088

 

Great advice and tips, thanks for posting!

Great inspiration!

 

Thanks for the encouragement!

Hmm... 26 votes -- woods #2 & 4 tied at 7 each, and wods #1, 3, 5 tied at 4 each! I wond if I'm going to have to get a tie break vote?

 

voted #2, tie broken:happy088

 

Thanks, buddy! :happy096