Brotherhood of the Open Comb Founders Tradere Pass Around

Discussion in 'Safety Razors' started by Azarius, Jul 14, 2012.

  1. Azarius

    Azarius Must have had his WHEATies

    Brotherhood of the Open Comb Founders Tradere Pass Around
    [​IMG]
    Prep: Tepid Water Shower, Brush soaking in hot water
    Razor: Tradere Open Comb
    Blade: SuperMax Super Platinum
    Brush: Vie-Long LE Beehive Horse Hair
    Soap: Tabac
    AS: Gillette Cool Wave
    Post: Cold Water Rinse, Alum, Cold Water Rinse, Double Splash Of Aftershave.

    I first would like to thank our friend who wishes to remain anonymous for providing this razor to Ken, Johnnie and myself so we could provide our opions and review of new Tradere Open Comb Razor.

    Although Ken may be the "ΘΣ of BOTOC", I have the dubious distinction of being "Asshat Numero Uno", so with that being said, the razor was sent to me for the first round of testing.

    I first would like to comment on overall appearance and construction.

    Razor Head
    The head of the razor is a piece of art from an engineering perpesticve, form meets function. The design, while in my opinion has been borrowed from iKon models such as the H20 and S35, is unique in it's own right.

    Handle
    Although my personal preference if for a handle with more girth and a shorter length, I found the Tradere handle to feel better in my hand than most. It may be the best weight to length ratio handle that I have had in my hand.

    The finish I am mixed on. Although I could see why a matte finish could be usefully, I think that if deeper knurling was provided, a higher level of polish could be used. That leads to the next point, as you can see from the picture, this handle, even after a quick cleaning, is tarnished. A stainless steal handle that is more polished will resist this. With that said, I will definitely be buying a Tradere handle in the near future, as it fits the FaTip like a glove, and just feels great in your hand.

    Overall Appearance and Feel
    I would rate the overall appearance and feel of the razor as high. The quality of the craftsmanship is apparent as soon as you open the case. This is not a mass produced razor coming out of a factory, this is quality work, and it shows.

    The Shave
    When I first put the razor to my skin, it took me a moment to find the correct angle. For me, I found it to be a very steep one, the same that I would use with the 20111 Mühle R41.

    The first thing that I noticed was how all I felt was blade. It was if I was holding a blade with my fingers and scraping. I did not like this feeling, but I continued.

    After the first WTG pass on my face, I moved to my next. Although the shave was smooth, it was the same as my face, it felt like the blade was scraping my skin.

    I rinsed my face, put on my glasses and did a visual inspection of hair reduction. While hair reduction was good on my face, the area from my jawline down had more stubble than I do when shaving with a Tech. While feeling my skin that is when I noticed the weepers and nicks which was gushing the blood from my cheek, necks, jaw and lower lip. I quickly rinsed my face, gave it a rub down with Alum and waited for the bleeding to supside before attempting the second pass.

    I decided that since my face felt raw already that I should do another WTG pass, as I did not want to cause any irritation. Although my touch was light and I was allowing the weight for the handle to do all of the work, the pass was no different than the first. My skin on my face felt like someone had taken an onion peeler and was removing a thin layer of skin.

    I rinsed my skin, put on more alum, took a smoke break and came back to attempt a DFS by finishing the shave with my Short Comb New.

    My skin felt so raw that I decided not to even attempt a third pass, and had only done some light touch ups.

    I have more stubble left below my jawline than I have had since I began Classic Shaving. My face is raw. I have cuts and weeper all over my face. I am glad that I did not buy this razor.

    Conclusion
    I know that razors and blades are very subjective, we each have the ones that we like best. I also know there is a huge fan club out there for the Tradere Open Comb, well I am glad that it works for you. I know that for me and my beard this razor does not work. I think that those who like the 2011 Mühle R41 you will like the Tradere Open Comb.

    I have read where others have posted that they have found this to be a mild shave. I would like to know what they think is aggressive. I normally use my Slim Adjustable on 9, use the FaTiP and Short Comb New almost religiously, and find them to be like shaving with a Tech in mildness when compared to the Tradere. My face has only felt this Raw from the R41.

    I may have to take a day off from shaving. I am undecided if I am going to give this a round two or just immediately send off to Johnnie.
     
    gorgo2, Conrad1959 and PLANofMAN like this.
  2. cryhavoc

    cryhavoc Member

    I've read this on 3 forums today Arley and it still sounds painful!
     
  3. gregindallas

    gregindallas Rolls Razor Revivalist

    "I noticed the weepers and nicks which was gushing the blood from my cheek, necks, jaw and lower lip. I quickly rinsed my face, gave it a rub down with Alum and waited for the bleeding to supside before attempting the second pass." :D

    You da Man!
     
  4. Azarius

    Azarius Must have had his WHEATies

    I have had people email or message me asking how I could not like the shave of it. Some seemed shocked as I had committed blasphemy. As I had mentioned, razors and blades are very subjective. For me, this razor does not work.

    I will try a new angle and different blade tomorrow. My standard rule with any razor is simple, if I cannot get a great shave from my go to blade, I will typically skip on the razor. Being that I have it on loan I will at least give it a second test drive, as my face no longer feels raw.

    If a noob was to ask me about a second razor, I would recommend any of the following Gillette's: Slim Adustable, Super Adustable, Fatboy, Gillette NEW in either long or short comb, Gilette Old Type, and of course the Tech. For modern razors: Any Edwin Jagger, Mühle R89, Merkur 1904 Open Comb, Slant, Progress, and many other less expensive razors. In reality they could easily pick up two or three of the aforementioned razors for about the same price as the Tradere.
     
    DLP and GDCarrington like this.
  5. Azarius

    Azarius Must have had his WHEATies

    SOTD, Brotherhood of the Open Comb Founders Tradere Pass Around Edition, Sunday July 15, 2012
    [​IMG]
    Prep: Tepid Water Shower, Brush soaking in hot water, face scrub with TSD Sandalwood soap and boar brush
    Razor: Tradere Open Comb (pass 1), Gillette NEW Short Comb (passes 2, and 3)
    Blade: Gillette Black 7 O'Clock
    Brush: Vie-Long LE Beehive Horse Hair
    Soap: Tabac
    Cream: TSD Sandalwood Wheat Cream
    AS: Aqua Velva Musk
    Post: Cold Water Rinse, Alum, Cold Water Rinse, Double Splash Of Aftershave.

    After yesterday's experience with the Tradere Open Comb, I thought that I would wait at least a full 24 hours before attempting shave number two.

    After numerous calls, emails and messages from razor buddies and family (Ken), I thought that I would take their advice and try a different blade. I found my last Gillette Black, which Ken and I both agreed should perform better.

    Being a lazy Sunday I took my sweet old time. Before showering I scrubbed my face with a boar brush and loaded with a slight amount of TSD Sandalwood soap, my face was in great shape today.

    I built an überlather that was thick and luxurious. I worked the lather well into my whiskers and allowed it to sit while I had a smoke and talked to my wife.

    The natural angle for the Tradere seems to be steep. I adjusted and tried a 30 degree angle, which did not feel natural or good at all, I went back to what felt natural for this razor.

    The strokes where short, with a lot of attention paid to angle, pulling of skin, and going back to the basics. I rinsed and exmained my face.

    Same as yesterday. Nicks, weepers, face felt raw. I was done.

    After a few choice curse words and a 30 minute break I finally went in and finished my shave with the Gillette Short Comb New loaded with the Black 7 O'Clock blade. Two passes and lights touch-ups and I have a almost a BBS shave.

    This will be my last attempt of using the Tradere. I am glad that there are entrepreneurs who come up with new designs and introduce these razors to market. I am glad that there is a loyal following for those that like them. As for me, it did not work out. Not every blade nor every razor is meant for every face
     
    PLANofMAN likes this.
  6. GDCarrington

    GDCarrington Burma Shave

    Some combinations are just not for every one. Better fortune next time.
     
  7. Azarius

    Azarius Must have had his WHEATies

    After trying a few modem designed razors, I have found for me, a modern head that is a replay on a classic Gillette design works best. I need to stick with what I know works and feels natural to me.
     
  8. Rob72

    Rob72 Member

    Heh, yeah, I do not rate the Tradere as mild-moderate. It is as much a zen thing for me as a perfectly prepped extra-hollow straight- loss of concentration results in blood. That said, the Tradere is my absolute first line, when I need an excellent shave in short time. My Neillite 400s are close, on the "wide-open" side, but much more forgiving; the FatBoy, on 9, is close, but still somewhat more forgiving.
     

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