Brushmakers Thread - Calling all Turners

Discussion in 'The Brush' started by jtspartan, Mar 4, 2019.

  1. jtspartan

    jtspartan appropriately stimulated, via Netflix

    Haven’t used either one. Mine is a Oneway Chuck. Excellent product. Bought it at Lee Valley years ago. The basic Chuck is about $200 CDN. There are most expensive Oneway options as well but I’ve never seen the need to upgrade.
     
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  2. Enrico

    Enrico Popcorn

    If it is the wood you could use a different type of wood to act as a barrier between the YaYa wood and the resin.
     
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  3. jtspartan

    jtspartan appropriately stimulated, via Netflix

    Yup, could do. Lots of woods out there, too!
     
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  4. Tanuki

    Tanuki Well-Known Member

    Mail call brought a 1/2” router bit extender that is the perfect 12 buck collet chuck for my wonderful Beall I-X collets. Set up in the sunshine immediately and turned a couple more prototypes. The eagley one is pearwood, the beehive probably cherry. For quick prototypes I’m pretty happy.

    What did I learn?
    The router bit extender works great once it is bound down tight.
    Variable rings on a beehive look dumb, but now I have a good idea of the depth and spacing I’ll want.

    They are both drilled for 28mm boar knots and have a light beeswax finish just to bring out any grain. I am liking the feel of the pearwood. The cherry has nicer color, grain, and spalting; but it’s kinda punky. I’ve got the worst side showing - nicest spalting and weakest wood. I will be interested to see what sort of blanks I can get out of my black walnut.
    4D955FC5-D947-4A2A-B509-00C3B9DEC86A.jpeg

    The set up:
    E948EA9F-4A15-4296-B231-7F4D053B4945.jpeg
     
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  5. jtspartan

    jtspartan appropriately stimulated, via Netflix

    I’m not familiar with those bit extenders. Very interesting.
    As for the punky wood- Have you used wood stabilizer before? Works well on soft or punky woods.
     
  6. Enrico

    Enrico Popcorn

    :happy096: You're well on your way to making a great looking beehive.

    :eatdrink013:
     
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  7. Tanuki

    Tanuki Well-Known Member

    I just happened to run into the bit extenders when looking for the right chuck to hold the Beall I-X. Looks like the are many price points, but the low end one I bought is doing the job and staying well out of the way while turning. I figured the runout spec must be good if it does the job in a router. A bonus is that the extender’s locking nut presses out against the I-X collet when loosening, helps free the Beall’s shank from the extender’s collet.

    I haven’t tried wood stabilizer yet. I have used Minwax’s brush-on ‘wood hardener’ product for woodwork restoration around the home, but I don’t think that would work well for turning. Any suggested products? The blank I was using for the prototype wasn’t weak enough to crumble, but it couldn’t be turned or sanded to a clean surface.
     
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  8. Tanuki

    Tanuki Well-Known Member

    Thanks! The spherical profile on this prototype is a real fist filler. My friend has big paws and likes big scrubby knots, so this is the way I may loft the final product. It won’t splay much.
    D0BD74D5-C19B-4FEB-B48A-929B50B0178E.jpeg
     
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  9. KUSTOM

    KUSTOM Well-Known Member

    Supporting Vendor
    Sorry it took so long to get back to this. Very possible the YaYa had a little moisture to it. I would pour a small amount in a cup (keep it clear) and stick a scrap of both woods in there and see what it does. Moisture in the wood has screwed up many things for me with Alumilite.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    This is Teak in Alumilite. It's over 20 years old but was sitting in a shed in the damp Santa Cruz Mountains where it obviously picked up more moisture than I expected. Alumilite still hardens but it puffs up if the wood isn't totally dry. A few thin scraps of wood tested in clear resin will possibly give you the answer.
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2019
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  10. jtspartan

    jtspartan appropriately stimulated, via Netflix

    The product I had was called Pentacryl. I used it to stop checking in a drying burl a number of years ago.
     
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  11. jtspartan

    jtspartan appropriately stimulated, via Netflix

    That is very good advice! Thanks for that, and yes, I think this may be the culprit...I'll look to do the moisture test you recommended.
     
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  12. brit

    brit in a box

    awesome handle.can't decide on the knot yet..thank you Jason.. 20191006_152100.jpg
     
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  13. wchnu

    wchnu Duck Season!

    Beautiful. I will get a knot in mine soon!!
     
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  14. Tanuki

    Tanuki Well-Known Member

    Tried to turn a test handle today, but I liked the woodpile blank so much I finished it off. It was the crazy grain that got me. I even came to acceptance of the tiny tear out in the twig sized knot. I will mail this off to a friend with a love of large scrubby knots and gargantuan handles. I will make him glue the knot, hoping that he’ll set it at least 3mm higher.

    Pearwood
    Huge eagle-ish shape, just under 60mm tall and 50mm max diameter
    28mm Shave Forge boar knot
    Beeswax finish
    Scrubby loft (and how!)
    C4B12BEA-9E46-4BFC-8313-85B4AC4E5993.jpeg
     
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  15. jtspartan

    jtspartan appropriately stimulated, via Netflix

    Resin ‘Fixing’ Project:

    Earlier on this thread I posted pics of a brush handle of mine where the resin didn’t harden properly on the wood edge. Lots of good advice came as to why- probably moisture in the wood.
    I decided to try and save the resin top as I really liked it.
    Here is the brush ‘before’, you can see the whitish, cloudy soft resin along the wood edge:
    3141CD2F-B73F-499A-A39A-2C615E7A60A8.jpeg
    Took it back to the lathe to partition off the top. I turned a 1 inch round ‘end’ to fit into a new handle. In the pic below, you can see where I was about to part it off. I also wanted wood on the bottom for a good bond, and not the 1/8th in or so of soft resin. Chose the same wood, YaYa:
    875B70D7-0535-48B0-8CFA-AA256EB63639.jpeg
    Next, I turned a new base for the handle, and used a 1 inch sawtooth to hollow out a receptacle for the top part:
    89E5E6AC-B25A-4E66-AC65-5ADF3E583AB5.jpeg
    Finished turning it and made sure the top fit well:
    24513449-34F9-4D5B-A938-0DF5DA4E5EE3.jpeg
    Epoxied the two pieces together, applied finish, some buffing and voila:
    47C4BAE4-1BA4-4F48-AF98-3DFF2EC09216.jpeg
    I’m quite pleased with it, truth be told.
     
  16. jtspartan

    jtspartan appropriately stimulated, via Netflix

    Awesome work!
     
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  17. jluc

    jluc smelling pretty

    Nice save, Jason! Beautiful!
     
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  18. brit

    brit in a box

    looks awesome..
     
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  19. Tanuki

    Tanuki Well-Known Member

    Bravo! Impressive fix. Thanks for sharing the whole process.

    Truth be told, I like the new profile and cleaner/clearer transition to the resin even better than the original! Work of art.
     
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  20. Tanuki

    Tanuki Well-Known Member

    Some inkwell stands ready to go out to a friend. Pearwood.
    4D7C4B69-DB24-43C2-BE43-23B383C99003.jpeg
    While I was at it, some yard art. Inkwells for scale. Deodar cedar. The odd wavy seam in the grain is a transition between a grafted dwarf deodar cultivar and the rootstock that bolted through and grew to 30 feet.

    I think I turned it just to see if my lathe and I could work at that size. About a peck and a half of shavings. If I could find a 125mm diameter knot I could loft it and justify posting to a brushmaking forum. Meanwhile, it’s a lonely rook that will never find its chess set.
    4B02E203-F3AB-4710-8DCC-F2FC95359EA2.jpeg
     

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