Discussion in 'The Brush' started by jtspartan, Mar 4, 2019.
awesome Jason,nice work..
Fantastic work. And that is a beautiful display rack full of beautiful brushes and razors too.
Not a brush but I turned this Mach 3 handle for my dad for Christmas. I cast the blank which is a cherry burl hybrid.
very cool...nice work..
Very well done. I've turned a few of them for a friend. Your finish work looks fantastic.
Thank you. I recently switched to using a finishing paste and it has certainly helped improve my finish process.
Is it a sanding paste or a paste type finish coat?
Think buffing compound. What I use is called Yorkshire Grit. It comes in two grits. Some just use the coarser but I use both before and after a CA finish. I don't wet sand anything anymore.
Very cool. I've considered trying something like that. Kim Tippin on YouTube has a video on how to make your own. She says it works great and costs MUCH less than store bought products.
When using it before CA finish does it leave a residue that needs to be cleaned off before CA is applied? If so what is your method?
There typically is a little residual paste left but I just wipe what ever I am turning down good with a paper towel before I apply my CA. The stuff I got is a little pricey but for how little you use at a time it will last a really long time so it is a little easier to justify the cost.
I just took a look at Kim's video. I may have to give that a try once the stuff I have now is gone or maybe try a small batch for my son to use so he stays out of mine haha.
I have dabbled with so much DIY and low cost stuff in my shop over the years. Sometimes after it all I wonder if my time would have been much better spent just buying what is available and making chips with the time and headache saved.
I get that. Sometimes I wish I wasn't handy enough to fix some stuff around the house. Some of the projects end up being a major pain. Partly because I have tools that with effort can get the job done but are not ideal for the job. Partly because I'm learning as I go, which often means making and correcting mistakes. And partly because our house is 120 years old and has never been fully renovated so there are lots of Odd problems to overcome. Many times I believe it would be much easier to build a house from the ground up than to completely renovate this one.
I find myself nodding along to this...our house is 114 years old and I have tried to do most everything myself as well.
Converted a paint reservoir to a pressure pot and decided to play with some resins while I wait on an aluminum shipment. Not too bad for a quick expirement. I do like these metallic powders.
I ordered some silicone for making molds. I'm going to try making a 2 in diameter mold for making blanks that fit in my 7/8" collette on my mill. I'll post an update once that is done.
I still need to tune the program but soon I'll be able to load the blank, push go have a brush that just needs to be parted. I will need some better chip evacuation. Need to think that one through.
I think anyone who's turning their own brushes is probably handy. We do most our home improvements ourselves.
Also, I have a friend who does custom construction. He's told me several times that remodeling the whole house is always more expensive than bulldozing and starting over, but you can't really bring back that vintage look and feel.
I agree. It's hard to beat the character of some of the older houses.
I'll be doing a lot of brush making over the next few weeks. I plan to make a bunch of these in aluminum, but decided to make one from resin while I wait.
I mixed resin and divided it into 4 cups with 4 different colors of mica powder when the resin hit 90° F I poured all 4 colors in the same cup then poured that into a 2" cylinder shaped mold and put that in a pressure pot at 50 psi for 12 hours.
I like the results but I wonder how I can get more integrated marbling without over mixing.
What kind of resin are you pouring? I usually wait till my resin gets to about 100 degrees F then pour. I get better color separation at slightly higher temps but it can be a bit of a gamble if you wait to long. I've had a couple batches flash and set on me.
I'm using Epoxy Resin from East Coast Resin. The only other resin I have experience with is Art 'N Glow which does take longer to harden. This stuff goes from 90 to about 110 in nothing flat. The first time I tried I spent about 20 min waiting for it to hit 80 degrees, it hit 95 degrees before I checked, and hardened before I could mix the colors. Perhaps that's a selling point for the more expensive resins. Even with my limited experience I've noticed this stuff goes from runny to hard very quickly.
Just curious, what resins do you prefer?
I primarily use epoxy resins by Oak Brook or Royal Palm, who is unfortunately out of business now. I mix my resins fully then immediately mix the pigment in then wait for it to come up to temp. I just saw a 3d printed segmented paint cup that I'm thinking about trying sometime.
Edit: I also mix in the pigments right after mixing the resin. When it hits temp I just pour it onto the same container and then pour it into the mold so it strings together in the final pour.
Very interesting. I'm very new to resin as I've only made 4 resin brushes, but I've poured 3x that in blanks, call it the learning curve. Anyway I use 3D printed molds. I could easily print a removable partition that can be lifted out when the resin gets to temp. That mighy look pretty cool. It would be unique.
Do you have a 3D printer?
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