I'm just trying to expand my knowledge a bit. For those that use pastes with straight razors, which do you prefer and why? Chromium oxide or diamond paste Also, how do you use whatever you use?
Sorry in advance Steve - I'm not going to expand your knowledge at all because I use the Dovo red paste on a hanging strop. I don't know what the abrasive is in the Dovo paste though. Chromium Oxide is what, 0.5 micron? I think you can get diamond down to 0.25 micron (maybe even lower), but there are some questions re whether that sort of edge is less robust. I've never used it, but know plenty who have, so maybe that's not really an issue.... Also, I believe the structure of the crystals are different - CrO2 is more rounded than diamond, and I've heard CrO2 gives a smoother feel to the edge because of this. However, for the same reason it's also a slower cutter than diamond. Similar idea to the garnets in a coticule, I believe, which are shaped like a soccer ball with every edge at an obtuse angle to the others. James.
Sorry, got wrapped up in my own little world there for a minute and forgot to answer your question. If I were to use them, I might try 0.5 micron diamond (for the faster cut) followed by the CrO2 to smooth it out somewhat and give a nicer shave. I guess you could replace the CrO2 with 0.25 diamond, as I imagine at that grit there'd be little noticeable discrepancy in smoothness (unless you are the Princess from the Princess and the Pea ) James.
Hi James, I've heard similar things about the Cro2 being more rounded than diamond. And yes, Cr02 is .5 micron and diamond can go down to .25 but many feel the edge is too sharp and too fragile so .5 diamond paste is probably the finest most people go. You're the first one I've heard of that uses Dovo's paste. Why do you use the red Dovo paste?
Oh, I'm just lazy and need instant gratification more than anything else. The shop where I bought my first strop stocked the Dovo red and yellow (conditioning) pastes, so I just grabbed one of each and pasted the embossed side of my hanger with the red. Actually, I find the red all I need. I don't know its grit, but I get nice shaves from it. Probably missing out on some nicer edges, but ignorance is bliss. James.
I use Chromium Oxide (0,5 micron from a tube of acrylic paint ) first and then ferric oxide (0,2-0,3 micron, readily available as a paint-base) afterwards. I only use my paste-strops after honing. Japanese 1000, 4000, 6000 and a Thüringer Waterstone (natural ~8000 grit) -> pastes -> strop. Whenever a razor gets dull, I go to the 8000 grit first for a few laps before hitting the paste-strops again, otherwise the edge will get rounded over time if you only use the pastes.
By the way: DO NOT use the green/red Puma/Dovo pastes! Their grit sizes are around 5 and 3 microns - that's coarser than a Japanese 3000 whetstone! What point is there in using an 8000 grit stone first and then using 3000 grit pastes? The absolutely best way is to buy colour pigments (chromium oxide, ferric oxide) and acrylic paint base. Don't ask me where to buy it in the US, though, but any good artists store should be able to hook you up with those for a few dollars.
I have used both. I had better results with the .5 Diamond paste. I go from the 12K to the .5 to the leather strop. Sometimes I skip the paste altogether and go from the 12k to the leather. I do this when refreshing the edge after using the blade for months at a time. Raf
I was under the impression that the red paste was similar in grit to the 8K Norton, which I've always thought was around the 3 micron mark (max. particle size). Certainly has always felt that way to me James.
I bought my chromium from HandAmerican. I wouldn't even begin to know where to buy pigments. That brings to mind, however, a story that I heard about someone's grandfather or father having a board with green paint on it that he used for razor maintenance. I'm told that chromium oxide is the color ingredient for green paint.
Yes it is around 3 microns and that's the grit of an 8000 Norton. But you can't compare the grit of the Norton to the Grit of a Japanese 8000 stone, which is much finer. And, besides, what point is there in finishing with a 12000 stone and than using a coarser strop paste? But, hey, everyone to his liking and I know the styles in honing are quite different between the US and Europe. @Reformation Student: A good starting point would be Google
There are many ways to get the final edge and it is a matter of preference. After my 30K Shapton I use .25 Diamond paste to get the edge as sharp as possible then use .5 Chromium Oxide to get the edge as smooth as possible. Even though the CrO is .5, it gets the edge smoother and shinier than the .25 Diamond. bj
BJ - Do you think that the chromium doesn't so much sharpen as it does smooth and edge? BTW- as an aside, I see you live in MO. How have you faired with all the heavy rain and flooding?
Interesting, I am going to have to give this a try ...I was primarily using Chromium Oxide in the past for finishing but the past several months I have been skipping the paste all together and shaving off the finishing hone.....usually an Escher.
Steve. I have a 30x lighted microscope that I use to check with my blades and can see the difference in the edge with the Diamond vs the CrO. The CrO is smoother and shinier. As mentioned before it doesn't cut as fast as the Diamond. Now that I am using this combo I have to use a lighter touch or I start getting nicks. This is the sharpest I have gotten my edges so far. I live on a ridge so the water always runs off but the creeks are running over their banks. bj
