Cleaning a Gillette Slim Adjustable

I was gifted an H1 Gillette Slim Adjustable and she was pretty grimy. So I figured why not make a little tutorial on how to clean up a gunky razor. These are how I do it and is in no way, shape, or form a hard and fast way of doing it.

By way of introduction, the razor:



And along with a few drops of dish soap, the cleaning accoutrements:

After some scrubbing with the old toothbrush and a bit of 3-in-1oil, she's ready to go!

 

Here are a few more pics:




I didn't boil the razor, I boiled the water and turned off the heat for long enough to stop the boil and let the razor soak for about 5 minutes.

The whole process took about 10 minutes including soak time.

 

Thanks for that. I've cleaned a lot of razors with the Scrubbing Bubbles and then used WD-40 or Wahl oil. I have never used boiling water. I've heard of people boiling the razors, but that sounds dangerous for the razors. I like your idea of boiling the water and then let the razor sit in it.

Do you do anything special after getting the razor out of the water other than the oil? I've been dipping mine in 91% alcohol and wiping that off before oiling. Maybe I don't need to do that step?

I have a couple of used Cooncat Bob razors coming by Monday. Should I just do some Scrubbing Bubbles and oil and be done with it? I am used to cleaning gunky vintage razors. I don't clean modern new razors when I get them. Do you think there is a reason to clean new before using?

 

Scrubbing Bubbles if used too much can remove paint.
Boiling will remove lacquer (esp from gold razors) and damage plastics.
Vinegar at full strength will remove plating.
Bleach can also damage plating at full strength.
Alcohol can damage some lacquered finishes.
Certain polishes can dull or remove plating.
Leaving items in Marvicide or Barbicide too long can damage plating and plastics.

You have to use discretion when cleaning with any method because there are a variety of materials, finishes, coatings and construction methods to consider.

Many people say "to never ..."
I say to that, know the materials and if you think you will have issues, ask because any of these methods are effective when used correctly.

 

Thank you lindyhopper!Well, never boil a gold razor<----rule number 1! Most other non-plastic razors should be ok.

And I don't always do this; only for razors with gunk. I normally just use SB and rinse with hot water.

Right after the soak on this one, is when I hit it with the SB. I let that soak and then went to scrubbing. Then I rinsed and shook off the excess water. Then I applied the drop of oil. The adjustment mechanism was free or else I'd have put a few drops of oil in the spring to help free it up, it just wasn't needed this time.

 

I read a thread on theshavingroom.co.uk, where someone was so afraid of the green gunk on his recently acquired razor that he was considering re-plating, just to make it "sanitary and hygienic".

 

They will use an acid bath to remove all the old plating. This is why I warned about vinegar, it is sometimes used in full strength to remove plating.
Once the plating is gone and the razor is processed, clean and replated it is essentially like a brand new razor.

 

The green stuff is corrosion from the metal material of the razor I believe. I think there have been plenty of cases to affirm that replating extends far into the overkill region when it comes to cleaning a razor up for personal use. To make a razor pretty again, sure. Hygienically, I'm not subscribing to that.

 

Nice job, Bob! That's how I do all my razors. No issues yet, just nice, shiny razors.

 

Yeah, I thought that a bit much as well.

 

When I asked Reliable Electroplating about using a acid bath to remove plating, Dale told me NO that is very bad on the copper that is in the brass. He said they hand buff (polish) the old plating off and then re-plate the razor with copper, then two layers of Nickel. Then Rhodium if you want it. He said that the Nickel doesn't want to stick to brass, that is what the copper is for.

 

Maybe that is why some replating does not hold up and flakes off.
The brass is destabilized (making the Nickel retention even worse) and the plating wont hold.
This is something to ask replaters about before allowing them to replate.

Excellent question and I think this provides more insight to the plating process.

Thanks!

 

Sometimes I think I ask too many questions, I just like to understand whats going on and why they do the things they do.

 

Don't stop asking!!! Keep asking!!! The answer given to one question can allow for everyone to learn, but also to develop more questions to ask!

 

Thanks GD.

 

That's very true. I've learned a lot here just following threads where one question and answer led to more and I got answers to my questions before I even had to ask. And like they say "There are no stupid questions only stupid answers"

 

Great job, only thing I would do different is use mineral oil in place of the 3n1

 

I have some and chose the 3 in 1 over the mineral oil because the mineral oil seems to thicken on my str8s with time and I thought that may happen in my TTO mechanism, so I went with the 3 in 1.

Please, tell me why you would have went with the mineral oil. If it is better, I can easily flush the 3 in 1 out and replace with mineral oil.

 

Mineral oil and baby oil are considered safe for human contact and even consumption in small doses...3 in 1 is not. Even when being careful and placing the oil down the shaft of the TTO mechanism, it tends to "wick up" on to other portions of the razor body. This has been my experience anyway. Even so, great job on that cleaning and i am sure minute amounts of 3 in 1 wouldnt hurt anything.

Chris

 

IA, a skin-safe oil seems best, to lubricate a razor. There are some soy-based lubricants (e.g. Ernestolube, BioKleen) that would fit the bill.