if somebody could give a understandable explanation of why this is done? (double shoulder) the top razor with the toe wear, how do you fix that. I'm guessing cut it off far enough back till it's even? since it needs thrown away I can do some drastic things to it to learn
As for the Double Shoulder, it was meant to add rigidity. As to the top razor, with excessive wear, just add a layer of tape, and hone it. But, that is a pretty narrow razor to begin with, and might not work too well. Cutting it down, to make a "Shorty" can be done, but is always a last resort.
I like everything about them except, it makes them hard to clean or sand. recommendations? to make them a little less pesky
says someone who knows how to do it LOL. for someone trying to learn how to do something, that answer doesn't suffice. I'm confident someone will chime in LOL I just don't see wasting a bunch of time on something that I'll gradually figure out. I completely believe in learning by doing. which is why I'm trying to figure out how to do it so that I can learn. which is my whole point. or I would just avoid straight razors completely LOL
Ok ok ok. So, you want a legitimate answer to dealing with those Blade Stabilizers?? The only ways I recall is the same as we do with Gold Dollar Razors. If they are in the way of honing, then use a Dremel Tool, and carefully grind the sides down. Or, use a Dremel Tool and angle cut them off. The Japanese do this with a lot of fine razors. Personally, this can either.enhance or ruin the looks of a blade. Now, cleaning is another matter. If it is rust, then just wrap your sandpaper around a popsicle stick, to get in there, and use a pencil eraser to do this too. There are many other ways, but being it is a minor issue, with most well made blades, these are the simple solutions. Me, I prefer razor styles without them, but I don't let the Blade Stabilizers bother me too much anymore. I hope this helped.
I tell most people I talk to to talk to me like a 5-year-old slow and articulately so I can process it I'm also a slow reader I guess you can say I'm kind of slow I never cared to go to school. give me a couple more months and I may not know what I'm doing but I will sound like I do QUOTE="DaltonGang, post: 2052867, member: 17101"] .[/QUOTE]
Move the heel forward of the stabilizer. Same razor, before and after. The green line is the end of the edge in both images.
if you figure it out be sure to post something LOL I have tried pieces of cardboard and just about everything you can glue a piece of sandpaper too and I just think they're just a different color and react to scratches differently in that section of the metal LOL
Getting pits and rust out of a 90 degree angle in steel by hand requires no special knowledge. You just keep at it, until the pitting is gone to your satisfaction. Try a small piece of sandpaper over the end of your thumbnail, or something equally thin, maybe guitar pick?. A Dremel might be faster but has its own drawbacks, like overheating, or catching the blade and damaging the blade, you, or both. If you’re working by hand, take a look at ‘outback’s (aka machine gun Mike) restoration posts on the Sharp Razor Palace. If there’s a technique to be learned, he knows it, but most of his advice about pitting us what we all know, ‘keep rubbin’.
Take some picture and post what you are in the process of working on. Inquiring minds want to know. LOL. .
Don’t hold your breath for an answer from him He left here a few months ago in a big huff after insulting most of the people on this forum that tried to help him Like I mentioned earlier some people you just can’t help ps: it isn’t different colors or steel, it just needs a bit more work because you can only approach it from one way Buffers clean it right up
