Since I wouldn't want anyone to think I was only picking on Dovo Factory edges pretty much ALWAYS can use some help some WAY more than others Brand new TI Spartacus in for special work (Will post the story later) under the USB you can clearly see the chips and edge roughness standing out There is no way a bevel like that would ever leave my shop that would be embarrassing to deliver to a customer.. Frontside toe area I can't believe that huge deep scratch they just let go by Middle Look close here the bevel isn't even clearly defined the scratches are so bad Rear by the toe Hone on
If you own straights and are buying new you should always, at least in my view run them over a wood backed leather strop with some very fine diamond paste just to be sure you are starting with the sharpest blade. I’ve had 2 Dovo just fine right out of the box but I still recommend this. Perhaps the one exception might be the Feather straights as they are wicked sharp, but since the actually blade under a microscope looks much different any foil can be bent over just touching the package lining during shipping. So strop first or ask questions later. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have not tried many factory edges, I usually have the vendor hone them. I had a couple from the bay and they did need honing except one. I bought a NOS Dorko and it's factory edge was very nice.
I'm not generally concerned about any factory edge. All real straight razors will eventually need some work.
Good thread. When I get a new SR I always carefully examine the edge through a magnifying lens. Then I decide what is needed. Generally I like to start from scratch. Then when I put the edge to my face I know what I can expect.
Glen - what level of magnification did you use for these photos? I'm getting to an age where everything is fine print so I would need this kind of assistance should I take up edge maintenance.
OK, a long time ago in a different thread, possibly on another forum I told about how I had paid extra to have a new Hart Steel sharpened when I bought it. I said that I didn't like it. That was such an extreme understatement that it's been eating at me. I hated it. After I killed the edge, I defiled the corpse. It wouldn't shave. Beyond tugging, it had the characteristic of drawing blood without cutting or slicing my skin. I tried shaving arm hair and the same thing, blood without cutting or slicing or shaving. I had never experienced this before or since. I don't even know how to make a blade do that. A kitchen knife off of 400 grit whatever will cut arm hair without blood. The razor is fine now. That helped. I will have a nice day. Thank you.
The huge deep scratch that they just let go by, I don't think is that big of a deal because it doesn't go all the way to edge. But the bevel isn't clearly defined, makes me think the spine is bent.
Honestly NO !!! Here is the thing, for honing you really need a well lit 30x ish you JUST need to see the major flaws as shown above in the bevel pics, all these high mag USB shots of finished bevel are just eye candy Once the bevel is well and truly set there really shouldn't be anything of real note to see.. You have to understand the difference between Shaving and "Chasing the Edge" Give me a Norton 4/8 an I can shave comfortable for the rest of my life and hone anything I want.. That all changes when you start chasing the edge, most of us that talk incessantly about honing are chasing edge, we are talking about that 1-2% of improvement nothing more The usb pics above are probably in the 80x range
My initial bevel set test is visual - I could be on a 500 or a 4k. I use a Hastings 7x loupe or a Maggards 30x with LED illumination. Both are nice, the Hastings has better visual quality and less distortion near the edges but it’s small and I use it under a bare light bulb getting reflection off the bevel. The Maggards is 25mm, very large for 30x and the visual quality is quite good for a cheap loupe, especially until you get near the edge of the field. I doubt however, that it’s anywhere near 30x, 12-15x might be more like it. But I would recommend either, they’re just different in the way that you use them. My final bevel set test is HHT at 4-5k, not visual unless it fails. If it passes easily and the same all along the edge, I’ve got maybe 10 minutes left to a perfect edge. Usually. Now sometimes we all miss a little something, and the HHT fails to satisfy, then I go back to the loupes because sometimes the polish of finer grits will reveal some defects that aren’t visible at lower grits. I also like to do a half stropping at 4-5k, say 10 fabric/20 leather because it seems to bring the polish up a little, so if I use the loupe, seeing problems might be a little easier. Edit: leather not linen Doh!
That's even beyond my level of need at this time, but the info I'm seeking. I have a Cattaraugus Barber's hone that I'd like to put to use in an attempt to maintain edges. Setting bevels to "chasing the edge" comes later. "For Instructional Purposes". Gotcha. Found one on their website, but I don't see the built in light. No worries as they are currently out of stock. (LINK) Thank you Steve - having an illuminated view would help these old eyes. I'll check with my local Harbor Freight & the hobby stores. Now that I have some idea of qualities to seek like what range of magnification, lighting, and a wide aperture I can make an informed purchase.
Ahhhhhh Ok you are talking edge maintenance, there are tons of people that do this, I have multiple customers that I only see their razor when they get a new one or they damage the edge in some way They maintain their razors for years with a Barbre's hone or something like a Naniwa SS12k It works and it works well I buy these off eBay or Amazon and they work just great for honing, and Yes I am old enough to wear "Readers" too hehehehe Yes I have better ones also but honestly these really work well for spotting issues and are well lit plus they cost about $3 each This vid might give you some ideas about using a Barber's Hone they are really effective tools
