I have a friend who is the director of my Barbershop Chorus here in Cambridge. www.cambridgechordcompany.co.uk He is the same age as me, 61. When his father died some years ago my friend kept his father's shaving kit which included a fatboy, a rolls and a str8. The fatboy is a silver coloured one not a gold. The water around here is extremely hard so the adjuster knob has siezed. I have offered to clean and "restore" the fatboy and sharpen the rolls. I'm not touching the str8. If cleaning does not free up the adjuster then I will be asking more questions on this issue but the main question now is this. I want to give this back to him in an original plastic case including a blade dispenser. But how do I get one and what should I expect to pay for just the case. Also how do I know which one is appropriate for his razor. I also want to get a blade dispenser. He is a good friend and has done a lot for me and I want to make this set look the business for him if you know what I mean. He is a wet shaver using brush and soap and proper prep but still uses multi bladed wonders. This may convert him, who knows? Any comments pushing me in the right directions would be appreciated. Oh, and by the way, if you enjoy male close harmony acapella singing you should click on the link and listen to our samples. We are without doubt the best chorus of it's type in Europe and have many awards to prove it including the 2004 Pavarotti Choir of the World trophy. Sorry about the advert regarding my other hobby.
There actually is a Fatboy case on ebay right now that says it will ship worldwide from here in the States. The bid is up in 1 day. Just go on there and search Fatboy Case, that is how I just found it. I saw it yesterday because I was looking for a case for a '63 Slim.
The direction I'd go with the FB is a few drops of a penetrating oil. May be just enough to cut through the corrosion etc. that has built up there. And the oil shouldn't hurt a thing. Gently , after a few hours of letting it sit and soak in, try working the dial. It may take a few attempts but should break free. Once it does, add more drops of oil and keep working it back and forth.
Thanks for the advice. This is my first one with problems other than dirt and scum. Would you soak it first in scrubbing bubbles or go for the lube job first.
I'd lube it first and get it unstuck. Stand it on it's head and put the penetrating oil on the collar as well a a few drops right down the end of the handle. Let it sit for a while then work it free. Then when you're cleaning it with the scrubbing bubbles it should rinse away the crud and the film of oil. Then polish her up. Probably wouldn't hurt when done to add a small drop of oil in the mechanism to be safe. Work it a few times again and call it done. It seems too with these adjustables that before you twist open the top, to take some of the pressure off by returning the ring to #1 then open to change blades. Not sure if it matters it just seems to make it a bit easier without all the tension if you have it cranked to #9 and twist it open.
Not a problem Thom, I hope all goes well for you as I think it should. I have three of these as well as 4 slims. Only one was a bit cranky and the penetrating oil fixed her right up. For what it's worth, I used Liquid Wrench. If it can free rusted bolts and nuts, it should work on a razor as well.
Thanks Jody. I will give it the first class treatment before he gets it back. I know what I would feel if I had the Gillettes my dad used and this guy is about as sentimental as I am so I know he will appreciate it. BTW I'm looking at a case on the bay today and I would surmise that they are going to be desireable because of what they would do to the value of a FB when they are together. What is a reasonable price to pay for it? It's on about $11 now and I would probably go to $20. But it may go cosiderably higher. I wonder. Also, would this tutorial work with a slim. I have one of those and am considering getting it replated. Thom
The Slim and the later Fat Boys had a different process in manufacture. Their TTO knobs retainer were pressed on rather than screwed on like the earlier Fat Boys. At the first link I gave you, look at the second and the third picture. If the 1st picture matches the inside of the Fat Boy TTO knob you have, where you can plainly see the retainer has 2 holes in it, use those directions at that first link. If the second picture matches the inside of the Fat Boy TTO knob you have, where you can plainly see the retainer has no holes in it, use these instructions instead. You'll also have to use these for a Gillette Slim. As for a regular Fat Boy case, I've seen them go for $5 on up to $60. Notice I said regular Fat Boy case - I did see a case for a very rare bottom-dial Fat Boy go for $200. As for case prices, it depends on how many other people need one at the same time you do and how bad everyone wants it. I personally wouldn't pay over $25, $30 for one depending on how much shipping will raise the price too.
FB issues Hey Jody, Gave my friends FB a good clean and a partial disassembly this morning. The adjustment ring moves freely now but the blade platform does not move up and down more than 1 mm. The shave is the same on all settings so it is not changing the blade angle. I only disassembled as far as removing the doors and shaft. Should I fully disassemble the the handle. What is your opinion? Also the doors seem to have a tight spot when nearly closed. One of the doors seems to be catching on the middle part of the blade holder. Thanks Thom
The blade platform not moving up and down is usually a sign of soap gunk or hard water buildup (calcium, lime) somewhere in the head or neck at the spring or on down in the handle. If it were me, I'd do a total disassemble. As for the door issue, it sounds like there's some misalignment on a door gear or door hook. Not really sure what to do about that other than see if any of the parts of the door or head are bent or warped and if so, try and straighten.