Friday Night Razor Match-Up: Adjustable Series....

Well, I mentioned in another thread that I would be taking on the task of performing some razor shave match ups but, with an assortment of adjustables that I have in my collection. It will be comprised of both modern and vintage razors in all configurations from TTO, 2 piece and yes, 3 piece configurable plates. Some might say that the Rockwell & Karve by CB aren’t true adjustables. Well, they might not be adjust on the fly with a simple twist or turn but, according to Sir Webster if an item or object can be configured or modified in essence “can be adjusted or brought to a more suitable state”, then those razors are technically “adjustable”.

Now that we got that out of the way, I just want to put out an outline on how I would like to proceed on carrying out this endeavor. At the moment, I have 12 razors that are set to go and will face each other in pairs every Friday Night. Razor (A) will face Razor (B) with both razors getting one side of my face and alternating from pass 1 to pass 2 and so fourth. Criteria for the shaves will be determined by the following:

1. Ease of use. (Installing the blade & alignment, balance, grip, rinsing, etc.)
2. Comfort during the shave.
3. Efficiency.
4. Quality of shave. (CCS, DFS, BBS, etc.)

I’ll include the make and alloy(s) used for each razor and also include pricing. I’ll keep that at the end of each shave as that really doesn’t determine how a razor performs but, there are those that do consider it a factor and it should be noted. Even Stevens as they say...

Soaps and blades will be set and kept consistently throughout the shave match ups. If I start with a Shark blade, it will stay a Shark blade until I go through the initial 12 razors (6 paired shaves) and take those that will move on and decide if another different blade will be used for the next set of razors and shaves. I will do 3 rounds for every pair of razor match ups (Friday, Sunday, Tuesday) unless one razor cleans up the first 2 rounds a third would be moot.

So, as to get everyone involved, I ask you fine Gents what pairings or match ups would one like to see? I’m having a bit of a tough time trying to get pairings made up so I’ll let you fine Gentlemen make up the pairings for me to get this started. I would ask if we would keep same manufacturer pairings such as the Gillette Slim vs Black Beauty or Merkur Progress vs Mergress and a couple others from knocking each other out, at least for the first round of 6 pairings. Let’s just mix them up real good and go from there. Eventually some will pair up as we move forward. Also, I will also let you fine Gents determine which razor blade to start with out of the selection that I have present in the pic below. If the majority of votes select the Gillette Black Ninja’s 7 O’Clock blades, then all razors will be fitted with those blades until the first round eliminator is complete. Then we’ll go through the vote process again. I hope I didn’t confuse anyone because, I’m pretty close to doing it myself...

Well, what say you fine shaving Gentlemen should be the first match up? Make your picks and the highest tallied votes determines shave one. Hopefully, we can get this started this Friday and let the competition begin for top adjustable......

Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. All input would be welcome.....


Razors on the Left from L to R are: Merkur Progress, Rockwell 6C, Parker Variant, Vikings Emperor Augustus, Rockwell Model T, Merkur Vision.
Razors on the Right from R to L are: Karve by CB, Mergress (Merkur), Gillette Slim ‘63, Rex Ambassador, Merkur Futur, Gillette Black Beauty SE.

 

What you need is a Gibbs , le Coq Palmer , fatboy, toggle

 

Yeah. I have the Gibbs but, not the Le Coq, Fatboy or Toggle. And the Gibbs I would have to modify the blade and make sure it aligns correctly. Not a big deal, just didn’t want to go through the hassle. Arguably the Gibbs might be the best adjustable ever made. The others are hard or expensive to get a hold of. Maybe a decent Fatboy will join the fold in the future. We’ll see....

 

*Subscribed!*

 

@Str8on2
Interesting read thanks for taking the time to post it.
"Semper Fi"

 

Thanks Gents. Well, at least what's top dog in this little group will be determined. There are a few standouts missing such as those mentioned a couple of posts prior including one of the rarest adjustables, the Personna Micro-Matic adjustable. I considered including SE's & Injectors but, that really would have made it extremely difficult when comparing all these different formats for razors and blades. Just trying to keep it as simple as possible. We'll see how it goes....

 

??Come on. It takes like three seconds to align a blade and little more to trim the two tabs?? I mean it's your shave off but you've got the razor...

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

I know, I know..... Hell with it. All right, you convinced me. We'll get it in there. The French will be represented...

 

History will thank you

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

I’ll bite. I would love to see the Black Beauty vs the Progress. Second I’d see the Slim vs the Model T. I have those razors and maybe I do the same thing as you and chime in with results after yours? I have. Futur too so Futur against Progress would also be interesting.

 

Good suggestions. Hey, ride along with me, no harm in that. Thanks for the input amigo....

 

Good thread, Gus. Looking forward to your results.

 

Thanks Primo. Most wet shaving vets have what they need and want. But, it can't hurt neither if someone is on the fence about how a particular razor may perform. I'm gearing this more towards the newer entrants into the wet shave world that are not sure where to go and what to expect. In the end, it will be fun for me and it can potentially help both newbies and vets alike.....

 

I have no imagination:

Progress vs. Mergress
Vision vs. Futur
Slim Vs. BB
Karve vs. 6C
Variant vs.Model T
Rex vs. Viking

 

You ain't kidding.....

 

Not on that subject.

 

I'll tell you what though, the Karve vs Rockwell 6C you suggested looks like a pretty good head to head. I just might kick it off with those two later this evening....

 

The only two adjustable I have owned was a Progress (2-sold) and a '58 Fatboy (still own). The closest "vs." comparison would be that Progress and your Slim.

 

My apologies Gents for not getting this shave match up written last night. Life and family matters happened to get priority and I had no chance of writing up the shave results. Again, my apologies.

So, without further ado, here are my findings with the first match up: Karve CB vs Rockwell 6C.


The Karve CB: An all brass constructed razor that is CNC milled out of solid billet. The razor is designed as an adaptable razor plate system that one can adjust to suit and fit their shaving requirements, a la Rockwell’s 6S & 6C. The machining, workmanship and tolerances bring fitment to near perfection producing a top quality razor at an very affordable price. Plates start from AA, being the mildest in blade gap to all the way up to G (the G was a very limited run with the F plate being the standard high end in plate aggression) with a much bigger gap and a more aggressive feeling shave. Also, the Karve is the only configurable or adjustable razor that offers you base plates in both straight bar and open comb configurations depending on your wants and needs. An extremely well rounded package that offers customization galore from newbie to seasoned vet.

The Rockwell 6C: An all chromed alloy made razor that is casted out of zinc/zamak and hard chrome coated for durability. The Rockwell 6C has been around a bit longer than it’s opponent, the Karve CB therefore having a more widespread customer base and following. The Rockwell pioneered the modern era of the configurable or adjustable base plate and went through the ingenious design of implementing two distinct blade gap sizes on one plate that started with their King razor in their stable, the 316 SS 6S. Simply by flipping the plate you could adjust your blade gap via 3 base plates with 6 sizes from R1 through R6. Rockwell created a vey agreeable package for the shaving masses and includes ALL base plates in one convenient and very affordable package for the 6C. Nearly anyone can shave with this razor as it has proven to be an excellent performer since its inception.

Karve Pros:
1. All Brass alloy constructed.
2. Will last a lifetime.
3. Exacting tolerances and precision.
4. Superb balance and weight distribution.
5. Great feel of the knurling on the handle offering excellent tactile grip and offers different handle lengths to fit your requirements.

Karve Cons:
1. All brass construction. Some can’t stand the smell of brass. Also, the brass is not treated and is in its natural raw state. So, it will gradually over time develop a patina. Some like, others hate.
2. One handle, one top cap and one bass plate. You don’t get a complete interchangeable system as you do with the 6C. Initial up front costs are very reasonable but, if you want a different blade gap you will need to purchase them separately. To some no biggie, to others a key factor as it will cost more to get to where you want it.

Rockwell 6C Pros:
1. A complete razor package system. All plates included for a totally customizable shave from the get go.
2. An all chrome finished package that is very well done.
3. Good balance and weight distribution
4. Very good feeling in the hands with good knurling and almost a universally excepted handle length.
5. Best bang for your buck on an interchangeable/ adjustable razor.

Rockwell Cons:
1. The all zinc/zamak chrome finish. Not the best in terms of alloy. A ding, dent, deep scratch or cross threading and it’s Taps for the razor. Corrosion and deterioration will follow suit quickly and render the razor useless. Good care is required if you want it to be your only and last razor.
2. Cast construction. Not the strongest form for producing a razor. A good drop and it’s potentially “Adios Amigo”.
3. Poor quality control. Uneven chrome finish with some areas not being coated at all. Blade alignment can be a little off because of the chrome coating and eventual wear on the cast moldings. Though these concerns and inadequacies were reported more earlier on during the initial release, it’s still worth noting and mentioning. Keep your eyes peeled as some can still get through.

The shave match up tonight between these two razors was carried out with the help of these software and hardware components.

1. LNHC Florida Freeze soap
2. Yaqi 28mm Barber Pole Tux brush
3. Shark Premium blade
4. Chiseled Face Sherlock a/s splash
5. Banana Republic Modern man edt



Got into the shower while the razors and brush were soaking in some hot water. Finished up the shower while still leaving my face with plenty of water to keep it hydrated and the whiskers soft for the shave. Whipped up some of the fantastic Lisa’s Florida Freeze which offers an amazing mentholated cooling sensation that is not harsh or eye watering at all. Just a nice, smooth and controlled cooling, good stuff. Bowl lathered with the 28mm Yaqi that gave me a luscious, rich and dense lather painted onto my face. Aaahhh.....

Pass 1. Karve on the R, 6C on the L. The Karve was fitted with a sb C (.85mm gap) plate and the 6C was set up with the R5 (.027” or .69mm gap) plate. The B plate on the Karve would have been much closer to the 6C in gap size but, the C plate is the smallest blade gap size that I have. It is what it is. First up was the 6C and starting from the L burns, north to south the 6C engaged the 2 days of growth with a nice smooth cutting action that was quietly audible yet letting me know that I had the angle spot on. Blade feel was very muted but, it was doing the cutting it needed to do. Cleared my face to the jawline in 4 easy strokes and continued on my neck with the same ease of smoothness with very little blade feel. A very nice and smooth clearing for the first WTG pass on my left side. Moved onto the R and Sir Karve was up. Started from the burns north to south and it engaged nicely with a bit more audible tact and just a tad bit more blade feel, slight but noticeable. Cleared the R side of my face to the jawline in 3 smooth strokes and onto my neck in the same north to south movement. It was quite apparent that the near identical smoothness to the 6C with just that tiny bit of more blade feel and audible feedback let me know that the angle and efficiency was on point. Cleared out my whole R side without an issue on the WTG pass and gave a thorough rinse of the face in cold water. I felt that on my R side the Karve had cleared the whiskers a bit closer and more thoroughly than the 6C did on my left especially around the jawline and half of my chin. There were a couple patches on my L side that the 6C went over and left more hair. Hmmm.... I’m thinking the increased blade gap and the very small positive blade exposure on the Karve is out gunning the 6C on the R5 plate. We’ll see in this next pass...

Pass 2. Didn’t want to switch up sides just to see how it would all fair with both razors sticking to their sides on all 3 passes. 6C up and this was an ATG pass from south to north beginning and the lower neck up to the burns. The 6C is incredibly smooth and very quiet during these strokes. It kind of hit its stride here a bit as I could feel the blade and razor clearing more whiskers on each stroke. Cleared out my R side both neck and face very nicely without a nic, cut or weeper to speak of. The rinse and face feel will tell how it went shortly. Next, Karve on the L with the same movement south to north ATG pass. Again, smooth with nice audible flow letting me know that this razor is dialed in on angle. Very smooth passes that cleared out whiskers quickly with nothing in terms of any mishaps or user error. The blade feel is so nice on this razor without being over done. Truly remarkable how smooth it is with more blade feel and exposure. Cold water rinse and a thorough face feel. Both sides felt good and both looked like that I was at a DFS finish. But, on my neck on the 6C side I could feel a couple of spots where there were some tiny patches of stragglers left behind, especially around the neck near Sir Adam including a couple spots on the lower side of the jawline and chin. Not much to be honest but, still there and present to the touch. On the Karve side I was near smooth as silk. One little spot near Sir Adam and everywhere else smooth and clean. No patches or stragglers that I could feel and just the tiniest of a weeper near the L corner of my mouth and where my stache ends. Another cold rinse ended that tiny blip on the facial map. Decided what the heck, lets get a third pass in chasing the baby. Onto no.3....

Pass 3. This is a complete touch up pass on the both sides of my face and an XTG pass on my neck from left to right and right to left for the two competing razors. The 6C got first dibs on this final pass from R to L and it cleared out my face quickly and easily leaving it smooth, clean and irritation free. Went down towards the neck in the same directional movement and it cleared out the far majority but, I had to go over the trouble spots a couple more times again, near Sir Adam, lower jawline and the bend on the chin. Cleared it out nicely but, I did start to feel just a slight amount of irritating heat on the chin and lower jawline. Small, very small but, present. Went over to the L with the Karve and started L to R on my face and it just motored though whatever little was left there. I employed a bit more skin stretching in this final pass to make sure that I was catching all whiskers remaining on every stroke. I forgot to mention I also employed this technique with the 6C side as well. The Karve just did it just as smoothly and cleanly as the 6C while providing a more directness of blade feel during this pass. It removed the tough spot near Sir Adam with precise efficiency without having to go at it again. The lower jawline and bend on the chin where completely clear and smooth on the first XTG stroke through there. You just know when you’ve done a good stroke or pass and the Karve gave me that on this final pass. Smooth, clean and mostly irritation free shave minus the couple of spots on the 6C side mentioned before. In all it was an excellent shave from both competitors that gave a nice BBS finish. A cold water rinse, a quick alum rub that confirmed a tiny bit of irritation on the 6C side (small area of chin and lower jawline), cleaned out the tools used and dried up the brush and bowl. Did a final cold water rinse to clear out the face again and splashed on some CF Sherlock. A nice very light quench that felt refreshing and soothing to the irritated spots. Within 5-10 minutes, irritation was a thing of the past. Sprayed on some BR Modern edt and I felt like a million bucks. Great shave.....

So, round one between these two is over and done with. It’s evident that the Karve was nearly flawless in every aspect of the shave minus that tiny glitch of a weeper at the corner of my mouth. Other than that, it was the dominant performer of the two. The 6C gave almost as good a shave as the Karve but, needed a few more strokes and work to get me where the Karve did with less fanfare. I will have to say that it perhaps is partly my fault as I just didn’t have the proper plate for the Karve to match up consistently with the 6C and it’s gap dimensions. I think I will step up the 6C to the R6 plate as it has the largest blade gap and perhaps will be on more equal footing with the Karve and its C plate sizing. We will see what that result brings in round 2..... Stay tuned gents.

Round 1 winner: Karve by CB.......

 

very cool review sir..