Since you live in Portugal , just look for "thread lock," as locktite might not be sold there, or sold under a different name. They all work the same. There are two varieties. The blue one locks nuts that you might want to remove later. The red one is permanent. Threads locked with red locktite must be heated with a torch before you can unscrew them. Heating a razor with a torch doesn't exactly 'hurt' a DE razor, but it does nasty things to the plating.
For the locktite, just a comment that its more of a "stuffing" than an adhesive and works by being somewhat shearable (blue) to not shearable (red). I could be wrong but i don't think it a good choice in this instance. Personally, i would assemble the razor so that it works properly then disassemble noting thread turns etc. Then clean up the mating parts, then drift out the handle, lube, reassemble, and then press the head back on the handle to complete the assembly. I can't think how Gillette would have done this otherwise? The contact zone is too small to use adhesive and once its glued, its an utter mess to repair again should it loosen.
I met and had dinner with Matt and his wife at the 16th Annual Shave Collectibles Meeting outside Cincinnati and can also affirm that he is a straightforward, honest, young man with a strong sense of Business ethics. He delivered an excellent presentation on Gillette oddities. I will be sending in two of my Gillettes for restoration and replating. These are user Gillettes. Enjoy your shaves, Jeff
First of all I want to thank all your help and advices =) Im glad to say that it worked! Its now solid as new =) again thanks guys!
Did you get it fixed? I got my first British rocket this week and had to set the head back on the handle. It's doable.
Yes, the cold weld worked (I used patex nural 21). You just have to be patient and use a toothpick to apply it. After this I talked to friend that works in a jewelry Shop and he told me, that a laser weld could work. But he never saw the tight space that he had.
