Horn & Bone Suy Louvain

Discussion in 'Razor Restoration' started by TestDepth, Jun 2, 2018.

  1. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    Pretty sure Suy Louvain is a cutlery but I don’t know the maker on this one...
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    8/8 blade but missing an important piece at the pivot :). No problem... I have a spare that is pretty close. Almost started the easy switch, then thought I would like to keep this little piece of the razor’s history.
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    So if I wanted to keep that, I thought maybe I could use the camel bone in a different way than using it for the wedge. Quick 2nd post coming...
    But if you happen to recognize this stamp, maybe it helps me with the maker.
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    The blade face is very Sheffield like.
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    Enjoy your projects.
    Tom
     
  2. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    My plan is to create a replacement piece in camel, shorten the scale, and use a colored 2-part epoxy to join the two parts in a design of some sort. I came up with this:
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    The shaping was all done with a dremel, finishing with a 400 grit drum, followed by hand sanding. I was enjoying the mock up... here is a little closer look.
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    Really tried to take my time and mirror the other side’s shape and width.
    Then I went super technical... and added my tape to create my “mold” or something like that :). I had to keep the proper spacing and figured this would do that for me.
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    Whipped up the 2-part Gorilla glue and added Pearl Ex Super Copper powdered pigment. Now here she sits. 56968D01-4713-47BA-8C3E-6D6001562DF1.jpeg Yeah, I made a mess. Gonna give it a couple days before I see if this actually works out. Fingers crossed.
    Tom
     
  3. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    Not in a position to sand yet, but strong enough to lift, the design is shaping up. The mold did shift slightly, but can’t ask much more from two pieces of tape.
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    That yellow blotch is where I had to cut it away from the microfiber it was laying on. :)
     
  4. RezDog

    RezDog Well-Known Member

    Cool idea. Are you going to use a liner? I like that you are preserving the name engraved in the scales.
     
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  5. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    Not sure on that decision yet. I was thinking of keeping the inner side of the scale with the epoxy overlap and covering the transitions with super glue. That might give it the strength needed??? But if it doesn't, I can always try again and add a G10 lining. I took the tape off last night and added two quick coats of the glue before I attempt sanding tonight.
     
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  6. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    A quick shot without the tape and before I probably screw it up tonight :).
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  7. PLANofMAN

    PLANofMAN Eccentric Razor Collector Staff Member

    Moderator Article Team
    The maker is most likely Goedecke & Co. and the razor was made in Germany for C H Suy Louvain, a chain of stores in Belgium.
     
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  8. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    Thank you. I appreciate that info very much.
     
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  9. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    Well I hope Mr. Lorent Telise would have a smile with this one...
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    Normally I would go 400 grit or lower to remove material, and it did have two think coats of super glue on it, but I decided to play it safe and start with 600.
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    Went quite a while at 600, then up through 800, 1000, and then 1500. I did not worry too much about scratches, really just tried to blend it in with the old scales.
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    I did lose a little of the last name but I feel pretty good with the repair - it seems solid and it was hard to sand.
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    I have an idea for the blade... just got a vibratory tumbler to play with. :)
    Enjoy your projects!
    Tom
     
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  10. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Www

    Well done. :happy088::happy088:
     
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  11. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    Thanks Scott.
     
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  12. RezDog

    RezDog Well-Known Member

    Looking good!
     
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  13. Arnout

    Arnout Well-Known Member

    Suy was a blacksmith from 1840 till,...

    They had cutlery made in germany and france.

    The adress tiensestraat louvain, belgium
     
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  14. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    Awesome! Thank you for that info.
    Found another tang stamp similar to mine yet still a variation. Thought this was interesting...
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    Tom.
     
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  15. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    Time to try this again... but with synthetic turquoise & horn.

    Latest victim: 13/16” Wade & Butcher. Seems like an older one, no country and near wedge.
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    The blade is in very nice condition and the scales are 85% good. The problem area is the pivot... so a candidate for an implant. :)
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    The C.H. Suy is holding up well, so theoretically this should work, but my execution is always questionable. The tools:
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    This time instead of the camel bone with a transition color, I’m going color with a transition of pearl white.
    Next post in a minute.
    Tom
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2018
  16. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    Removed the blade (probably guessed that from pic#1) and traced out the shape on the turquoise.
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    Cut that out with the dremel cutting wheel and stuck it to the other side with double sided tape.
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    This is pretty thick stuff so lots of sanding drum work.
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    Respirator and glasses in hand, a large cloud of stuff, and here we go.
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    Always forget to leave a little more material for the hand sanding. I did better this time but we shall see if these marks come out over time.
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    Now to the horn...
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2018
  17. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    Cut the horn and used the sanding drum to get the transition curve I wanted. Took out 400 grit sandpaper and worked the shaping of the turquoise.

    Once I got the thickness and the outside radius similar to the horn, I drilled the pivot hole and then removed it from the other side.

    Time to mock up the scales so I can create my tape “mold.”
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    And another angle... oh, and I saved the original washers - yes!
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    I then applied tape, removed the pinning mock up, and mixed my epoxy with the Pearlex flakes.

    Poured it into the mold and now I cross my fingers.
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    I’ll check back in a few days.
    Enjoy your projects!
    Tom
     
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  18. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    Took the tape off. Still need to wait a bit to sand, but I think I see how it’s coming out.
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    If I had to do it over again I think I would have shaped the horn differently. More like this:
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    Not sure if I have a stability problem (and I could support with some thin G10) but that small overlap would have given me more confidence.
    We shall see.

    Not bad with the blade...
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    Enjoy your projects!
    Tom
     
  19. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    Finishing up...
    Used a light touch with the dremel sanding drum to take down the excesses on the inside of the scale and around the outside. I keep a little extra on the inside to help with stability.

    I then added a coat of CA glue last night on the outside and went back to sanding this morning. I don’t really sand through the CA coat, but wasn’t really worried if I did. 400 to get most of it down to where it was smooth, then a quick run up through 600-800-1000-1500-2000. Some TurtleWax rubbing compound then Flitz then Renaissance Wax to finish.
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    And a little closer.
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    Now going to find those original washers and put her together after cleaning up the razor pivot.
     
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  20. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    Implant complete and she is in the recovery room :)

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    Oh wait... wrong side :cool:
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    Went together well and I love using the old washers even with this turquoise.
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    I thought this was a cool shot:
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    And this green circle just shows how I try to leave a little more material on the inside, but not too much where it appears bulky. At least that is what I was going for.
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    Next up, the hones.
    Enjoy your projects!
    Tom
     
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