Discussion in 'Straight Razors' started by RobertTaylor, Feb 22, 2020.
How to know when to move on to next grit
Ie from 240 to 300 to finish
There are two basic stages to honing. The establishment of the apex, so that the edge is a perfect V, the point of the V makes the cutting edge, Polishing is the second stage. When creating the apex, also called setting the bevel, I find it most effect to use a loupe and a bright light, and look at the tip of the V. Any areas that are not yet complete will show as sparkles or white lines. This stage is the foundation of the edge, and unless it is perfect, you will never achieve the potential of the blade. The second stage of polishing, I also use a loupe but at this point I look at the sides of the bevel, examining the scratch pattern left by the hones. As the deeper, more greys I’ve scratches get erase but the new scratch pattern, it is time to move up. I rarely use anything but a 1000 grit for my initial bevel set, and progress through to 12,0000 grit or a natural finisher. You can effectively shave off a well done 1K edge, but it is not nearly as comfortable. There are many that shave well with an 8K edge.
I think he is asking about sanding ???
I had a cute trick when hand-sanding
basically it was much like what @RezDog just described about honing
You start at the base level grit to get out the most amount of Blems / Pits THAT you have to decide by looking at the blade and honestly a bit of a learning curve of steel vs Pits
I started every grit dry, so I could see what I had going, once I had even scratches in the steel and could see any more Blems I would spray that piece of Wet-r Dry with WD40 and do it all again
I would move to the next grit up and Repeat, dry sanding until the finish I had was even and Blem free, spray with WD40 and do it again
I found this system to be the most consistent and I seemed to get a real "Glow" to the finishes
The final result is not always up to you, there are limits to steel removal vs depth of pits, the razor does have a rather large say in the final results
"Rush a restore, Wreck a Razor"
"The depth of the pits will inevitably be just deeper than the depth of the Stamps"
That is wot i need to know Thanks start dry
First one is starting second one
Only done from 240 to 800
And it's taken all ďay
I think I am getting there
it is my first ever straight razor restoration
These spots are what we often call "Devil's Spit"
They are sometimes rather deep Black Spider Rust,, if you want them gone you might need to drop down to 120 first
Also understand like I mentioned above, it isn't always possible to get it all out, I have done actual Regrinds on some of the heavy blades and still found it
Sometimes it just looks right, to leave some patina, and go with a more mat finish. High gloss and pits look awful. When the pitting is near the spine, you have to be careful not to take off, or round over the spine. Doing that will compromise the ability to hone properly.
If I had a small sand blasting, or bead blasting machine, that would help on some razors. Then again, a belt sander, to regrind, would be the best.
Thanks for that I will barr that in mind
Well that makes way more sense.
I also change directions while sanding. It seems to go faster than sanding in the same direction all the time.
Separate names with a comma.