Hi guys im new to straights so I'm not looking to do this just yet but I was wondering how I would clean and polish a blade which has engraving in it so I don't get rid of the design I'm quite good with things like polishing etc but only hand polishing is there a machine I can use I saw gssixgun has this thing he puts walnut bits in with some liquid polishing stuff. I don't want to spend a fortune but I think I might get into this as a hobby
There are several methods to use Chemicals = Yeah, not so great results, at least not that have ever been posted on the forums Sandpaper = It works but takes many hours Tumbler = It works for polishing and is very safe but does not remove any metal so the pitting stays, it is shiny but it is there, and it takes up to 1 week Buffers = The fastest and most effective way so far, but dangerous as hell to you and the razors Dremel = Fast and effective but uneven results and dangerous to the razors more than any other method As I mentioned by PM Murphy's law of restoration says that "The Pitting will always be just deeper then the Etching" There is a balancing act that you have to learn between a finish and the etching there are no rules there is you and the razor and normally the razor makes the decision for you we are talking engraved or stamped designs here BTW Gold Etch is so fragile that if you even look at it crosseyed it comes off. Some people believe that the marks are more important then the shine, others believe in clean shiny steel if you are working on your own razors that choice is yours alone... Look at this thread, there are a couple that have etching, I used buffers here but was careful to go with a light touch on the etch http://theshaveden.com/forums/threa...-tang-rebuild-some-friends.27568/#post-477974 This is the same as making sure to keep the tang stamps, but again the razor decides, some tang stamps are barely on there, or have been worn to near smooth before you even touch the razor.. In that thread the Wilbert has a "Royal" etch on the blade face, but as you can see from the before pics, it was faint to begin with and was pretty tuff to keep it on there, but I did.. The Torrey "Army" had a sharp deep etch and I could keep that without a problem..
Thanks for the advice I think I was wanting pretty but in reality I need it cleaned up to use, I have one which says manufactured at the wheat sheaf works only. And looks ok so going for the sandpaper and see what's left.
Here is my procedure: 320 grit sandpaper until rust and most of the patina is gone. Keep going until scratches are even around blade ( no swirl marks) 400 grit sandpaper work in circular motions until scratches from previous grit is gone (should look smoother) 600 grit " " 1000grit 1500 grit 2000 grit 2500 grit Hit with a q-tip and some # 5 polishing compund from Home Depot or Lowes ( aka crox oxide) I then polish with a terry towel and Turtle wax chrome polish. The shine is blinding. This tends to be time consuming but it the safest wat for you and the razor. I have used Dremels but I like to do it by hand as I am a Hobbiest and not a professional. I am restoring a 5/8 Genova with light surface rust and I timed the first side to be about 2 hours from start to finish. Some wedge models take longer depends on pitting. Be careful not to over sand it as this will hurt the integrity of the blade. I hope this helps
That is near exactly the Handsanding procedure I used when I first started Joe, little hint, add WD-40 into the mix at the 600 level, after dry sanding then spray some WD-40 on the paper and keep sanding it will add a "Glow" to the finish as you get higher and higher in grit...
