Here's one I started some time ago, hand-sanding the blade for hours and got it to where I was happy with it and then set it aside. Here's the blade in it's initial 'scratched up' state… I made some custom scales for it and was very happy with the way the razor came together. The faux frame back is a heavy blade, but feels balanced in the hand when the razor is open. In designing the scales I kept in mind Glen @gssixgun had mentioned in one of his informative posts on how the early masters designed their scales with stropping in mind (i.e. comfort in the hand at the pivot pin junction; wide open in stropping). I was trying to maintain an even transition between the scale end and tang when fully opened (see photo#4), having the curves of the scales mimic the curvature of the tang. It seemed to work out well as the razor is quite comfortable in the stropping position. This isn't the case in all razors, I've discovered. Some specs: Joseph Rodgers & Sons Faux Frameback 13/16 carbon steel blade Cocobolo rosewood scales; CA finish Ebony wedge Solid brass pins, inner & outer washers
Thanks, Glen. I meant it when I mentioned your comments above about taking into consideration the practical aspect of razor scale design ('functionality'…what a concept!). As you stated, those old guys of yester-year had it figured out….
Thanks, DB. I too enjoy the faux frame backs—although it took me a while to get comfortable shaving with the FFBs I've used previously. I'm not sure if its the simply weight or just the shape (or both?), but they have a different 'feel' from your standard SR. I have another FFB similar to this Rodgers that'll require some scales. That one is destined for my cousin.
The majority of unique razors I have stumbled across have been from antique stores and antique collectible fairs. I have picked up a number from ebay—but that route can be a dicey method as often the razors are poorly photographed, in really poor shape and over-priced. With antique stores, you can hold the item, check the blade, the pins, the scales—and negotiate price without the competition an auction brings. I tend to keep the ones I really like—which is a slippery slope as I enjoy so many of the ones that have come across my bench— but I've already set aside more than a dozen (too many!) that are in my current rotation. The remainder I sell to offset the original price of acquiring the razor, plus the cost of refurb equipment & supplies. Some to friends, some on ebay— with ebay the more 'lucrative' audience.
Thanks, guys. Restoring these razors has become for me one of those addicting hobbies (especially now since I can't play my guitar) I mentioned to Glen I'm racing the clock to get as many finished as I can before my upcoming carpal tunnel surgery which will lay me up for a month or so….
I'm curious as to what makes this a 'faux' frameback. I've been trying to read up framebacks but the information is often conflicting and confusing. There seems to be three main 'types' of framebacks; - frameback with w/ solidly fixed into the frame, - frameback with removable blade from the frame, and finally - frameback with an added 'non-functional/just for looks' frame added on top of the blade. No idea if even that is correct If anyone has some non-faux frameback expertise I'd love to find out more.
Faux frame back is all one-piece, ground from a single piece of steel (no spine separate from the blade). It is not a real frame back. My understanding was the frame backs were flat-ground (vs hollow ground), and attached to the spines. Cheaper or easier to make them in that fashion originally, perhaps? Plus one could swap out the blade if one needed replacement. Someone with more knowledge may hopefully clarify. The rodgers here has a profile more like this; which really is more of a hollow-ground razor with an extra beefy spine and tang with a humpback appearance.