Shave Techniques

Discussion in 'General Shaving Talk' started by Chappy_Stan, Aug 12, 2023.

  1. Chappy_Stan

    Chappy_Stan Well-Known Member

    As the title says the question is, in what direction and how may passes is your normal shaving routine?

    It is my understanding in the past a standard shave was considered to be only 1-pass with the grain which is normally down in direction. Many people still do this today especially if they have to shave daily for work, have sensitive skin, or in a hurry to “get out the door”. I personally do this when traveling with a wet/dry electric shaver and Cremo shave cream as it requires very limited equipment for packing and is a quick shave.

    Today I believe the standard shave is considered to be a 3-pass shave in the direction of with the grain (WTG), across the grain (XTG), and finally against the grain (ATG) with maybe some touchups. Some will also just do a 2-pass shave consisting normally with WTG and ATG passes. Of course you do what works for you.

    My beard grows really weird and for me the most comfortable and least irritating shave is actually a 4-pass shave but with special techniques. I can actually do this shave faster than a 3-pass shave as I only do 1 stroke on each pass (no buffing), long slow strokes, first 3 passes chin up to stretch skin, but on last pass tuck chin down to catch those pesky trouble spots on my neck. I recently also found it works better for me to change the direction of shaving to WTG, ATG, XTG, and finally WTG with chin tucked down. Again, this works for me.

    What say you?
     
    WhyAreYouMe, chazt, ChrisB and 3 others like this.
  2. brit

    brit in a box

    i do a 2 pass shave with minor pick ups if needed.depending on razor used north-south then south-north.in most areas it's equivalent to across the grain and the result is a close comfy shave.the pick ups are usually against the grain and are minor if a milder razor(tech)was used.if a more efficient razor was used they are rarely needed at all.there is always enough for a shave the next day.:)
     
    Herm2502, chazt, Terry and 3 others like this.
  3. gorgo2

    gorgo2 geezerhood

    Usually a few long opening strokes WTG, then XTG/ATG blade buffing of neck and jawline.

    2nd pass is a few long strokes ATG, then buffing all over to clean up. That usually does it for me but some razors require a third pass.
     
    brit, Herm2502, chazt and 2 others like this.
  4. Ron R

    Ron R Well-Known Member

    I do my standard 2 pass shave WTG + ATG + pickups = 2.5 or 3 passes. 2 passes work for about 90% time for a nice close shave but I'm not satisfied so I do some pick up passes on tough whisker spots & happy with results most of the time. I think as I get older my beard whiskers are a little tougher to slice threw even with pre shave prep!
     
    brit, chazt and Chappy_Stan like this.
  5. swarden43

    swarden43 "It's your shave. Enjoy it your way."©

    Pass 1 WTG
    Pass 2 XTG
    Pass 3 ATG
    Touch up as required.
     
    brit, Herm2502, chazt and 2 others like this.
  6. Troy M

    Troy M Prep: Mephitis mephitis musk

    2 pass. First starts at the top and goes downward. Second starts at the bottom and goes upwards. Minor touch up on the neck and I'm done.
     
    brit, Herm2502, chazt and 2 others like this.
  7. Terry

    Terry Tool Admirer

    OK I'm game.
    My work shave is a one pass with the grain, including the gourd.
    My weekend shave is 2 pass shave. One pass with the grain, then one pass across the grain. Including the gourd.



    I found going against the grain isn't for me.

    tp
     
  8. stuartganis

    stuartganis Well-Known Member

    You guys are confusing me with this north south east west shaving I shave lying down so north is against the grain south is against the grain i'am so confused.
    Can anyone tell me where I can get a shaving Compas?

    Sent from my SM-T387V using Tapatalk
     
    brit, Troy M, chazt and 1 other person like this.
  9. ChrisB

    ChrisB Well-Known Member

    Any good......?

    upload_2023-8-13_10-48-21.png

    Should work standing on your head too! Lol!
     
    brit, Terry, stuartganis and 2 others like this.
  10. ChrisB

    ChrisB Well-Known Member

    Good question. Really. Glad you asked.

    You have partially answered a question I haven't seen asked much: you said you only do 1 stroke on each pass
    My question is how many strokes per pass per area of beard?
    And what qualifies as a "Pass" ?

    I just keep going till I'm smooth, or start feeling I am pushing the boundaries a bit, but yes generally 3 passes with touch ups
    WTG mainly
    XTG both ways within each "pass" as needed
    and repeat till smooth
    Avoid any razor blade contact with unprotected skin, but that's just where I am at at this stage of wet shaving
    Not into J-hooking yet, I don't feel it is needed

    For the stubborn zones I will try ATG but not generally with an OC and/or new blades and/or some less satisfactory blades (eg Treets !)

    Interesting to see how everyone is different
     
  11. chazt

    chazt Methuselah Shaver

    Sold post here, @ChrisB . I’ve thought about similar questions. For example, each person’s definition of a pass may be somewhat different. Also, consider that before we can talk about razor technique and passes, we must also assume that one has mastered his own beard’s map and has artfully learned to make a well hydrated lather.

    I lather up twice. The process of removing the lather is a pass. My first pass is wtg and xtg everywhere. Wtg for me is not always north to south. My lather leaves enough residual slickness to accomplish a safe and effective xtg element to my first pass. Pass two consists of atg up the middle of my neck (over the larynx up to my jaw). One more similar atg pass moving out laterally in each direction. Then the rest of my neck only gets further xtg on pass two. My chin, cheeks and jaw line will get atg. A few touch ups and I’m usually a 9/10 or better most shaves doing it this way.

    I’ve learned to generally avoid going against the grain on my neck, which is difficult because different sections grow in different directions. Careful mapping was a major part of my wet shave learning curve. Irritation is generally a non-issue this way. Also, I try to avoid “the fool’s pass” (atg along the mustache) at all costs, no matter how tempting it may be.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2023
    brit, Terry, Chappy_Stan and 2 others like this.
  12. ischiapp

    ischiapp New Product Bloodhound

    Very true.

    As teached to professional barbers, basic technique is about 4 points (in descending order):
    1. Face Mapping
    2. Lathering
    3. Stretching
    4. Cutting angle
    This is the main tool about shaving.
    On this, every other tool works fine.
    Technique trumps tools ... as they say.

    When I've time, I do a full 3 pass shave (WTG, ATG, XTG according with my face mapping) with SR or shavette or DE.
    When not, the One Pass Shave (ATG in different directions as my face mapping) with SE for AC.
    When I'm really in hurry, just North-South pass with modern hi-tech systems. Exactly 3 minutes.
    Or the Fractional Shave, the three passes as normal but in three different times in the day. Mainly with DE.
     
    brit, Terry, chazt and 1 other person like this.
  13. Chappy_Stan

    Chappy_Stan Well-Known Member

    @ChrisB - For me one pass is normally going over an area of skin only one time with a slow 3 to 4 inch stroke. In theory since I technically do a 4-pass shave then I will go over each area of skin 4 times anyways. I believe general recommended technique is to do what I see many YouTubers do when they do short strokes of about 1/2 to 1 inch but go over the same area of skin multiple times. If this technique works for you there is nothing wrong with that. For me I have found this technique to be uncomfortable and helps cause skin irritation.
     
    brit, Terry, chazt and 1 other person like this.
  14. ChrisB

    ChrisB Well-Known Member

    @Chappy_Stan : nice comment I already do that in the flat areas, a bit more challenging around the adams apple, chin and jawline. More to practice!
     
    brit, Terry and chazt like this.
  15. Jayaruh

    Jayaruh The Cackalacky House Pet

    Supporting Vendor
    I'm a two pass guy. WTG, ATG and then touch ups. I am also a daily shaver.
     
  16. WhyAreYouMe

    WhyAreYouMe Active Member

    Twice a week shaver. Head/neck/face at the same time which tests my concentration at times. The neck is quite extensive as I have to go around it 360 degrees and even go past the neck so I can wear a T-shirt on my days off without looking like an escaped zoo animal.

    DE/SE shave: With the grain followed by across the grain where needed with no re-lathering. I have multidirectional even with cowlicks. Most difficult area is the adam's apple trying to pull the skin to each side while the skin is slick and slippery. Next is under the nose.

    With the CJB kamisori, can't explain it. Intuitively, it seemed like the only option. I just go straight down the face/neck and that's good enough for me.
     
    brit likes this.
  17. brit

    brit in a box

    :).Daily for me as well.
     

Share This Page