A while back I purchased a Switchback 400 with the synthetic knots #1 and #2. At the same time I purchased an empty top cap. I added a 24mm HMW knott from The Golden Nib this past week.
I pulled the knot out of the #2 (duro) and plan on replacing it with a badger. Did you set the knot yourself? Care to share your process?
When I asked that question of Crown King Shaving I received the following response: "the knot should be 24mm and fit snug in the cap. A 2 part epoxy is what I use and when mixed is thicker than a runny glue. That make sense? Cheers, Douglas" I placed the knot in the empty top cap and applied the epoxy through the bottom. I had to hold the knot in place for a few minutes to allow the epoxy to setup just enough to stay in place. Caution is needed to not apply too much epoxy and have it ooze out the top of the cap past the base of the knot. I then set the top cap on a shop towel that I didn't care about just in case the epoxy decided to run down the inner walls (didn't happen). After a few hours the knot was pretty well set but I wanted to give it 24 hours to cure. Actually the knot has had more like 72 hours at this point. Overall not quite as easy as replacing a knot in a standard handle that has a firm base to attach to but if you've worked with replacing knots in the past you shouldn't experience any major problems.
I have used the 2 part putty type epoxy to set knots in the Rubberset 400. I found it easier to work with than the liquid since I didn't have to worry about it running down onto the knot.
That was my guess as well Clint. A little JB Weld or something similar. I just wanted to make sure before moving forward and ordering a knot. Seems easy enough....game on!
Still waiting for my Switchback 400 to arrive - should be here this week though. I ordered a blank as well and was planning to use a nice 24mm Silvertip with it (guess I'll order one from Shavemac). @DLP what do you think: would hot glue work? Or Silicone? Or does it have to be Epoxy? And how deep did you set it? I have glued knots into standard handles before, but not into an open ring...
I am liking silicone nowadays. I put a little dab in the bottom, push the knot in, pull it out to check for coverage, push it back in, and set it aside for a day. I haven't had the opportunity to pull one out to replace it, but it has to be easier than epoxy.
Well done! I used my TGN HWW this morning. I think you will like it if you have not tried one before!
I had one that i set in silicone. It was indeed easier to remove than epoxy, but maybe a little messier as I couldn't get all of the silicone off the walls of the ferrule when i ultimately removed the knot. . I think the epoxy breaks off cleaner once the knot is drilled because it's more brittle. But, I was able to reuse the knot which makes up for the slight mess that nobody will see.
The Switchback 400 24mm knot looks intriguing and states "Zinc Alloy/Rustic/Antique Style Chrome Plating". Two piece handle allowing multiple top caps is also cool. Seems better build than the original Aluminum Rubberset 400. Look forward to reviews. The only other replica of the Rubberset 400 that I know of is BSB Brush 25\26mm knot from Juan a.k.a. Dr Dulcamara in Spain. Available in either titanium or aluminium. One piece handle. No idea of price
I received the Switchback a couple of weeks ago including an extra ferrule and a TGN knot (haven't gotten around to obtaining epoxy yet). I am not in possession of the real deal and cannot compare, but I strongly suspect that the original Rubberset has more of a quality feel to it. The Switchback is a chrome plated zinc alloy, 'die cast'. As for the synth knots, I have yet to getting accustomed too them - and indeed synth all over. What I can say is that the one with the more backbone of the two is NOT my favorite. BSB: Price early last year was just short of 100 EUR for the handle alone from our Spanish Doctor, in aluminum (see @Darkbulb 's post). It is a one-piece, though, so changing knots is not something you would do every other day. Mine did, it was - naturally - a number 3. (I doubt he has higher numbers.)
My precise concern. My first purchases in this hobby were the PAA DOC razor and the Switchback 400. I was so disappointed in the cheap feel of the DOC and I never even opened the 400 before trading both off. I don't regret the trade but I do wish I'd have at least experienced the 400 to discern "quality feel" for myself before having traded it.
The BSB Brush does receive better feedback online in regards to quality but at 100+ euros more then twice the price of the Switchback 400 it should.
You should have kept the 400. I agree on the DOC, complete piece of junk. The switchback however is a nice brush. It took me about 6 times to learn how to load it but I now really like it. I like the #2 knot the best. It takes very little water
I have the Switchback and three extra rings. Obviously the knot has to go in from the bottom so what did you do to get the bristles through the small hole ( rubber band) ??
I used masking tape when restoring one of my 400. But I think I pushed the second knot down thru the top. I don't recall. Why do you say the knot has to go in through the bottom? WAIT: just reread your post. I think I understand what you are saying now, nevermind
I don't know that it has to go through the bottom. don't have my knot yet. Maybe a 24 will slip in from the top??
