Thanks for posting, Swigman! Well done!

Honed my for some time other night must have done 60 and wasn't able to shave with it. Sharp enough to take hairs off back of my hand, but not off my face..Guessing more honing.

More findings on the mechanics Rolls Shave Handle​

Unfortunately the screw type Rolls Shave Handles seem to have a potential for water intrusion. I suspect capillary attraction and the temperature differences during shaving literally pump water into the mechanism leading to rusting of the ferrous parts and malfunction. And this results in the blade not being held securely or safely.

In these handles a compressed a spring pushes the clamp rod against the blade holding it. To test the mechanism insert a blade in the Shave Handle and screw the lower part of the handle until the clamp rod just touches the underside of the blade. Then try screwing some more. If it can be screwed easily about 1/2 a turn or even more the spring icompresses and subequently clamps the blade. Alternately, if the handle immediately becomes hard to turn the mechanism is probably "rusted up" and will need cleaning and lubricating. The mechanism is accessed by carefully unscrewing the tiny cap on the bottom of the shave handle as shown in my earlier photo.

To underscore what gregindallas has said, greasing the steel clamp rod is imperative for long term functionality because the grease both lubricates and blocks water intrusion. In addition lubricating the spring mechanism in the base of the handle is essential for the same reasons. Petroleum Jelly etc should work fine. I happened to have Corrosion Block Grease formulated for marine applications so I use it.

Hope this helps
Swigman

Rust? Rolls? It gives you something to work on between shaves.



You should see some of the aluminum models. Between the aluminum, brass and steel, in a coastal climate, they can positively fizz,

One of my Rolls handles was quite rusty. It was working but the rust had to be stopped or else.
I used some ZEP Calcium, Lime and Rust Remover but there are a number of makes on the market the most popular being CLR. I poured some into a little bowl and dropped the two parts of the handle into it. It sat overnight. Next day I rinsed them in hot water and cleaned the tubular part with a pipe cleaner.

Now I blow out the tube after every use and once a week I spray it with WD-40. Its instructions claim it prevents rust and DISPLACES MOISTURE. I also squirt a bit into the hole in the blade.
I am careful not to get any on the strop or hone.

It is only about 4 months since I started using the razor but there are no signs of further rusting.

I must admit that Swigman's Petroleum Jelly or Corrosion Block Grease sounds like a less bothersome method that wont require weekly attention. But so far, being able to check the handle weekly assures me of no further deterioration.

I restore antique cameras for a hobby and find that WD-40, when used judiciously, can work near miracles.

Though I never ever use it on shutter blades.

Mickey

gregindallas,

I should have included submersion in my list of causes.
I thought I had some really bad Rolls razors but that one is worse than anything I have! Did it come from the Titanic?


Micky,

I have not tried Zep. Did it leave the handles plating intact? I agree WD-40 is great stuff. And has an interesting history. Water Displacing and the chemist's 40th attempt at the formulation. Corrosion Block grease is advertised not to wash out. Hence trying it on the Rolls handle. Time will tell.

It has been a long time since I worked on cameras etc. Then I used chamois leather and graphite rubbing it on the individual shutter blades for lubrication. How is it done today?

Cheers
Swigman

Nice Rolls, Greg! How did it turn out? Did you get it to work again? Must 've been a pretty heavy job!

Swigman,

I have seen no change in the handle's plating.

I am a firm believer that shutter blades should be devoid of any lubricant.

I have purchased a number of 'broken' cameras for next to nothing.
With some patience and Q tips and lighter fluid I unbroke them by removing the lubricant from the shutter and aperture blades and other gummed up partrs.

"How is it done today?" I am not familiar with the workings of today's digital wonders.
Frankly, I am a Luddite. I have used digital for the past 7 or 8 years but leave repairs (only one) to those that were born with a mouse in their hand.

Mickey

Haemoglobin,

A jeweler's loupe or other magnifier will help you to see the condition of the blade bevel and what occurs when you strop and hone the blade. Using a Sharpie felt tip pen to mark the bevel to see where the stop or hone contacts the blade also helps.

The Rolls mechanism emulates manual straight razor honing and stropping. A very informative discussion for honing and stopping straight razors can found here:

http://www.coticule.be/home.html

Look under Coticule Sharpening Academy/Straight Razor Honing. Skip the article "The Various Strokes Used for Razor Sharpening" and start at "Edge Probing and Assessement"

Hope this helps
Swigman

My very first post was removed for violating the TOS!!! OOOOPPS!! Well, have been lurking here for a bit and love these razors. I have 5 of them now! Saw one on Ebay when I was looking for razors and until I googled Rolls Razor and found this site, I had no idea what the heck it was! Thanks for the write up and info on these as I am now hooked! Just ordered 3 blades and their containers on Ebay for spares. I had no idea until yesterday that with the blade folded over, there is enough room to store a spare razor in it's container! SWEET!!! I found one of the solid leather cases for one of mine but looking for a great shape alligator pattern leather case next!

THANKS ALOT gregindallas It wasn't bad enough I had R.A.D. with the straights(which I don't even use),the Injectors, SE's and DE's!! YOU had to go and start this "FANTASTIC" thread about the "Rolls Razor" !! I sure hope your satisfied!! I now own 3 Rolls Razors, 2 Imperials and 1 aluminium cased Viscount, with another Viscount that looks like a plated case with the original box on the way !!!! Luckily all have hones, strops.handles and blades in very good condition. I've refurbished the first Imperial and I'm working on the aluminium Viscount now. My problem is gettng the blade honed properly for shaving! I've read the posts here and I thought I had made enough honing passes, but when I tried to shave this morning it was pulling way too much I felt and I had to finish with my EJ89. My only comparison of course as far as sharpness goes are DE and SE blades is this a good comparison to use? Is that the type/degree of sharpness I'm looking to acheive with a Rolls? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated of course and any blame should be given to gregindallas....

Yeah, Rolls Razors and RAD are quite similar...
But if you are not satisfied with your Rolls's, I'll be glad to send you a PM with my address, so you can get rid of 'em...

Though I fear that Rolls Razors and RPD (Rolls PIF Disorder) are contradictory.

Probably closest to a single edge with the angle required and all. Rolls are "a straight on a stick" so the technique is the same. Try using short strokes and skin streaching is a must.
It can take a few sessions on the hone and strop to bring a blade back from "God only knows" what it went thru before you saved it.

It took a while and a couple of "mis-fires" before I got the alligator(ish) one I was looking for.

SWEET!!!! Thought I had one the other day on Ebay but timed my final bid wrong and missed the final second UUGGGG...... Oh well, someone else got that one and sure they will be happy! I am still trying to get use to the razor. I believe I have it "blade ready" but got pretty good razor rash two days ago. I had been using an electric for the last 15 years and just switched over to a DE and the Rolls. Not sure if it my face getting acclimated to a blade again or the Rolls Blade is not sharp enough. I have sensitive skin and remember when I went from wetshave to electric, took about a month for the electric razor burn to stop!

I got the last Rolls I ordered today. Also in good condition. It's supposed to be a Viscount and has a Viscount box, but it looks just like my Imperial. Any secret to knowing for sure if it's a Viscount or Imperial? I'm continuing my honing a little everyday and will definately work on my technique.... I'm loving this thing already.... Once I get it honed properly it will be in my regular shaving rotation.....

Thought the viscount only was made with the rounded corners, slimmer than the imperial and rectangle release buttons. Also an aluminum handle that is not plated. The single row design on the covers are for the viscount but they also fit the imperial. Possible you have an Imperial with Viscount covers?? Pics??

Might help'

http://theshaveden.com/forums/threads/rolls-razor-picture-thread.30715/#post-538401

Happy as a pig in you know what!!! I use the Dovo Red on my leather strops and have an old Rolls container that had 60 year old dressing in it that I just was using on display with my other razors. I cleaned out the container and squeezed my tube of Dovo red into it and PRESTO.... I can now use the Rolls container for my strop paste. DUH.... Why did I not think of this sooner??

I've considered using something called Naval Jelly (in spray form) to help block corrosion. I'm confident it's superior to WD40 but stinks to high heaven; makes WD smell like nice cologne by comparison.