I've found that an edge coming off of the SG20K benefits nicely from just a few (~10) strokes on very fine (I use 0.25 micron) CrOx sprayed strop. Also @HolyRollah, phenomenal work on the scales. Are those the original washers and pins or did you source them new? Because if they're new, I'm going to have to ask the source, and if they're salvaged, I must say bloody good work!
Thanks, Mike! The original washers were in sad shape and not salvageable. These new 'domed' washers are actually stamped brass that I picked up from a vendor on ebay, just to see what the quality of them. Not bad—a bit inconsistent— but with some refinement and polish, they turned out to be serviceable.
I'll try these stamped washers on my own personal razors, but prefer to make my own brass domed washers for custom orders.
Just test driving the sg20k; On loan from Lou @cubancigar2000 The W&B is the only razor I've used it on so far and the results were quite positive. I've a number of razors lined up for further treatment.
On the blade, greaseless compound in grits 280, 400, 600. Finished with black emery compound. Metal polish (Blue Magic) to give it some shine. Scales: hand-sand grits: 200, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500; switch to MicroMesh: 1500, 2k, 4k, 8k ,10k ,12k. Buff with red jewelers compound.
Kevin just out of curiosity, how much time was put in to bringing the razor to that state? I want to try some restore work as well, but feel I really don't have the patience or craftsman skills for it. I am floored when I see some of the work you and Glen do.
This particular razor I squeezed in between some other jobs in the queue. Pretty straight forward and no major set backs (cracked scale material, warpage, uneven cuts, etc...) The Blade: in pretty good shape and so required 30 minutes or so on the buffers with compounds to achieve a state that required only some hand-polishing and buffing. The Scales: a 2.0x6.0x.325" horn blank gets halved lengthwise on the bandsaw; belt-sanded smooth; two halves taped together with double-stick tape. Outline template of scales attached to blank (spray adhesive). Rough trimmed out on bandsaw. Shape refined on the bench-top belt-sander; Drill pins holes; Edges rounded over on vertical 2" belt sander. Time spent: 1 hour or so.... Hand-sanding of scales: 220 grit > 400 >600>800>1000>1500 Switch to MicroMesh 1500>2000>....up to 12,000. Buff scales with polishing compound. Time spent: 1-1.5 hours....leisurely-paced. Wedge: Trace wedge outline on blank, checking blade fit. Grind/sand piece to proper angle (wedge); Fit to scales, marking scale outline, trim wedge to size; polish edges. Time: 30 minutes Assembly: Dry-fit wedge (use stand-in blank on pivot end), all held in place with micro fastener nuts & bolts. Apply adhesive and pin/peen the wedge end. Flush sand and buff wedge end. Time: 30 minutes Pivot end: Peen the pivot end (sequence: one end of rod with washer capped/peened > scale>inner bearing washer>the blade>inner bearing washer> scale>washer> pin to be peened). Checking blade alignment as you go. Time: 15 minutes Final polish and QC check of operation (blade open/closes smoothly & in alignment, stays open, stay closed): Time 15 minutes Off the the hones....but first, it's liquid refreshment time! So from beginning to end, this razor looks as though it took about a half a workday ( 4-4.5 hours)—spread over several days.
I seem to recall reading somewhere, perhaps another forum, wherein in some restorer was saying how he NEVER uses greaseless compounds to polish a razor. Being as I know zip/nada about polishing steel, is there some "controversy" or differences of opinion on its use?
There isn't a controversy as far as I am aware. I know a few restorers whose work is beyond reproach and they all use the compounds. There are many ways one can 'rebuild a razor' so I'm sure there are differing opinions on the aspects of 'how to.' Some restorers use hand-held rotary tools (dremels) to do the clean-up work and do so successfully—but that's not something I'm completely comfortable with. There are always risks involved when using moving machinery and sharp blades, so I'm comfortable with using the compounds on a stationary buffer.
different opinions likely due to user not the compound. Many out there just want to sell em for profit with no regard for its intended use. You can quickley ruin a nice blade by overheating. Those who take the necessary precations are rewarded with great results and are almost always the same people who use them to shave.
