Wostenholm 8/8….oops! Wostenholm 7/8 Restore

This thread started with the intent of using an 8/8-sized Wostenholm.
Just when you think things are going along swimmingly, then it happens…

This big Wostenholm was next up for a new set of scales. The blade itself was in pretty good shape; very nice edge, some built-up gunk and surface scratches that should buff out easily. Scales were cracked and missing the pivot end.


I picked up some new blond horn material to make scales…


After some hours of cutting, sanding & shaping, the scales were coming along just great (compare to the originals at left). I plan on using white bone or amber for the wedge; brass hardware.


Handling the blade: I decided to go easy on the blade with the buffer (600 grit) to do some light buffing to remove the tarnish and some of the minor scratching. The blade was looking good! Next on to the emery compound to soften the line and then to the final hand-polishing….


…but then I noticed something and my heart sank……


A crack had developed near the toe, extending over a third the width of the 1" blade…..

Sad to say, I'm going to finish this razor even with the blade in its present condition. I was considering keeping this razor rather than selling it (although on the market it'd fetch a pretty penny)—but after today's events, it is now certainly a keeper & I hope to make it, at the very least, possibly usable. This is a dubious prospect at best—but with the amount of time & energy I've spent on it, best to see how it turns out.

 

Well, it does happen when you are restoring items that are over 50+ even 100+ years old. The thrill is to bring something that vintage back to full condition, the agony is when the item has a hidden, or sometimes not so hidden, critical flaw that causes one to have to cease or if continued to have an item that is disappointing. I do understand this one and I am sorry it snuck up on you.

 

You're absolutely right on, Gary. The 'thrill' is in the restoration process and revitalizing the 'glory' of things past.
I was upset to see this blade crack, and perhaps I'd be more peeved had I been more heavily financially invested in it (these suckers go for $200+ in not-so-great-a shape on ebay). Since I picked this up for around $24, I'm not going to go apoplectic over it…just more annoyed and disappointed.

 

Sorry to hear this Kevin. I guess the only positive way to look at it the more practice you get, the better, for future razors restores. I realize the last thing you want to do is shorten the blade, but would that be possible?

 

Possible, Eddie, but I dont know if it'd be practical. This is something that Glen @gssixgun would know more about than I as I'd have no clue whether its a viable option or more spinning of my wheels to go nowhere.

A Wosty Shorty…

 

Does the crack make it totally unusable for shaving at his point or is it just cosmetic?

 

Never having had a blade this size crack, I can't be certain of the salvageability.
Perhaps other with experience will chime in. Most of what I've read by those who've used cracked blades is the prospects are dicey.
Personally, I'd rather go this route than shorten the blade. Worst case, it gets honed yet doesn't feel right (edge catches), I now have a 'display piece.'

 

Ummm.....

This may be sorta nuts, but would it totally out of line to round the toe,
and shorten the blade only slightly?
I know that there was probably no such thing as a round toe Wostenholm,
but it would put the crack way out at the end where it wouldn't really be in the
"shaving" portion of the blade??????



Sorry about the art work.
I flunked crayons.....

It's could still be a really good shaver, right?

 

Back-up Plan
In lieu of the now-damaged 8/8 Wostenholm blade, I'll be using another blade with the blond horn scales.
I have another Wostenholm 'Celebrated IXL' razor from the Washington Works, a hair under 7/8, hollow notch with a plain, un-etched blade.
It's comparable in length to the slight wider 8/8 blade, and will still fit the scales nicely.

'Makin' lemonade with the lemons I'm handed…'

 

Heck of a backup plan, Kevin.

 

Colossal bummer. Nice backup plan though.

 

Thanks.
The new 'smaller' Wosty blade cleaned-up real nice on the buffers and with no cracks!

Now I'm finishing the scales. Assembly will hopefully happen soon (more pic to come).

 

considering your previous works, I am sure you have a backup plan for your backup plan already

 

Funny you should mention that as, in fact, I do.
But I don't dare talk about it for fear of jinxing the current plan.

 

Bahahahaha now THAT sounds like me

 

Sorry this happened, but you seem to have it well in hand. Love the blond horn, by the way. My mouth started watering as soon as I saw that blank.

 

Let's take a few steps backwards, shall we?

My lovely blond horn scales were developing a slight curl—not uncommon. Usually I'll plunge them in boiling water for a few moments and clamp them straight. This has worked in the past but these recent scales were stubborn.
Doing some online research, some restorers claim boiling water temp is too low (200°F approx) and about 325-350°F is more ideal to soften and straighten horn scales.
So some oven-baking (briefly) was in order.
Unfortunately the results were less than anticipated. Time for a new set of scales.
I've a few more horn blanks arriving later this week. Back to square one…..

Custom 'Salvador Dali-esque' Melting scales….

 

Sorry for this. Those scales were gorgeous.
How common is this, and how does this reflect the economics of using horn in restore work?

 

I can only speak for my own limited experience: some horn blanks I've used have remained perfectly true—no warping or twisting. Others have been a real bear.
The darker horn blanks, at least in my usage of them, has been less prone to warpage than the lighter varieties.
I anticipate when using the lighter horn that extra labor will be involved.

 

Thanks. Have been contemplating horn for a bit now. As an amateur guitar builder, though, I keep going to wood.