Yellow Heart Scales

Discussion in 'Razor Restoration' started by Bill, Mar 12, 2007.

  1. Bill

    Bill Man of Steel

    I really like the nice clean look of yellow heart. It is hard enough, if you seal it, to use on scales without having to line them. It really shines (arf arf) with a CA finish.


  2. bg42

    bg42 New Member

    See what I mean Bill your finish looks like a deep luster that is what I`m trying to get the closest I`ve been able to get was two coats of ca one coat of wax and then repeate 4-5 times ,but it is still not right
    As usual ,beautiful work Bill
    Kind regards Peter
  3. Padron

    Padron Active Member


    That looks Great :D ... Is the blade a TI Egyptian?
  4. Bill

    Bill Man of Steel

    Yes, it is. Think the super glue holding the pieces together will go unnoticed? Gotta take it easy with stropping, however.

    Just kidding. It is the replacement for the one that broke. This one was bent where the tang met the heel of the blade, as well. I didn't try to straighten this one out where it belonged. It doesn't take me long to catch on... :happy068

    I made modifications to the inside of the scales to get the blade to not kiss the side of the scales when it was closed. I don't think I could explain how to do the work. Let's just say the washers are a little smaller in diameter, a little thicker, and canted in the scales to shift the blade over where it should be. Instead of taking two minutes to pin the blade, it takes 25.

    Many times I have noticed guys who say their blades hug the side of the scales and then blame the scales. While that can be true, many times it is a bent or twisted blade that is the culprit.

    What is possibly done at the factory to get the blade centered is to angle the pivot hole as the scales are drilled and peen while torqing the scales to the side that needs the adjustment. The more flexible the scales, the easier it is to accomplish.

    I'm beginning to wonder if TI is running out of their NOS blades to work with. If they are new blades and new grinds, their quality control is watching too much TV.
  5. Bill

    Bill Man of Steel

    Peter, the process I go through is in the updated version of my CD. I can't remember if you have the new one or not.

    But, basically, use those disposable rubber gloves. I cut all the fingers off and use them individually on my right index finger to spread the CA real thin. Use the super thin version of the CA. Run a skinny bead of CA down the center of the scales. Quickly make one swipe down, one back, and then run around the circumference of the scale. If you work quickly, you may have enough time to do this twice. Too little CA, and the surface gets too sticky too quick. Too much, and the coat won't cure without causing problems with bumps and bubbles. Practice practice practice.

    The CA doesn't need to be completely cured to put on the next coat, but it needs to not be fluid, either. I do this anywhere from 8 - 12 times. If I do 4 -5 sets of scales at a time, the timing is just about right to keep adding coats by the time I have made the cycle of adding CA to each one of the scales.

    Once I think enough CA has been applied, I sand them using these grits. 220 for the bumps and ridges, 400 to stabilize the surface, and 600 to finish up. Then I go to the 1 horse buffer and polish it out with white greaseless and then Fabulustre compounds.

    For more detailed info, you guys... my CD is availabe to learn the rest. :D
  6. Will

    Will Nevermind

    That is it! I have had it :mad:

    I need to get a strait :D

    Even if I can't shave with one, just having one :drool

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