Based on advice on this forum, I brought a EJ89, Omega Boar brush, Proraso green bowl and a blade sample pack. I've shaved multiple time with Astra SP (used each blade twice) and that worked out very well - no irritation etc. I've tried twice using the Personna Platinum (new blade each time) and got razor burn / irritation in both times. Can anyone help explain the difference between both razor in terms of smoothness / sharpness? Would like some direction on what to try next based on experience so far. I have Feather, Gillete 7 Green and Yellow, Derby and Polsilver Super Iridium.
Being that you're new, my best advice would be to not wrestle with the Personnas right now, and move on to the next blade. I'd wait until you have your technique dialed in for the Feather, they can be quite unforgiving, but are at the top of my list of blades. I really like the Polsilver blades, the Gillette's you listed I find to be middle of the road, and I never cared for Derbies... My suggestion is to set aside any blades you don't like now, and revisit them in a few months. As is often said here, technique trumps tools, and I find that I can at least get a good shave from hardware I thought was junk years ago.
Welcome to the forum! When it comes to blades, you need to pick a blade sharp enough to slice without effort. Of those you have, Feather is the most sharp and Derby the least sharp. The rest falls somewhere in the middle. So, for example if you felt tugging, try the Feather. If you did not feel any tugging, pick any of the other blades you feel for to try. A too dull blade will cause some tugging and pulling, which leads to less precision and might cause you to add extra pressure, which leads to irritation. An unnecessary sharp blade might also be adding to the chance of getting an irritation. Irritation comes from too much pressure and/or bad angle. Pick a blade allowing you to have good precision and a feather light touch! A duller blade is often considered more smooth, but there are even exception there. Brands of approximately the same sharpness might have different grinding, different coating etc. Besides what you have, I recommend you to get a bigger sample pack of Russian blades. At ebay, there are some selling ready Russian sample packs with full tucks of 5 blades of each brand, so you got a chance to revisit a blade while your skill develops.
Pick a blade and use it. Until your technique improves changing blades a million times will do you no good.
+1 on all of the above. Adding even just a little pressure can cause irritation and razor burn. Sticking with a blade that works for you is the way to go. As you have a sample pack, try the polsilver or Gillette blades next. Personally, the Personna and Astra blades work very well for me. However, every face is different. When you've sampled enough blades and have found what works best for you, consider ordering a 100 pack. They're very economical and are just pennies a blade.
You said the Astra's worked so I would use that as a base. I say get enough Astra blades and do the 30 day rule to dial in your technique. Once your technique is down pat, then get a larger blade sample size and experiment. Good luck and enjoy the ride!
I agree with these gentlemen. If the Astras felt pretty good, then go buy 100 pack on Amazon (should be less than $12 shipped). Use them for 30 days, I would say no more than 3 or 4 shaves per blade. Once you get past that 30 days, then you can start trying different blades and testing blade longevity. Until then, you just won't know whether a particularly good or bad shave was a fluke, the lather, or the blade.
If you do purchase 100 blades and find you don't like them later, there are plenty of folks that would buy any you have left over. The 30 day rule is a scientific experiment that works. All you gear is good (including the blades you do like) but you are the variable. So if you keep using the same equipment, the difference will be how you use it. There's an exciting world of soap/brush/razor/blade/post care products to try, but if you haven't learned the new skills of using your new equipment results can be hit or miss. Those Cartridge razors needed you to press em to your skin to make contact. These DE razors work better with the correct angle of attack and the very lightest contact on you skin. Got to unlearn cart habits, develop Technique! In my signature below are two links; Ride The Cap, and The 30 Day Rule/Focus Group. Pour yourself a beverage, click a link, and read. Your face will thank you.
I agree with many of the above. You've already had decent results with the Astra SP, so keep using them. Once you're to the point that shaving with them is a bit more unconscious, THEN you can start adjusting variables. (blade sample pack, different soap, different brush, etc) Shaving should never be a totally unconscious process (unless you've been hammered by a DI), because it's a good way to make your face feel like you've been the target at Benihana's.
If it makes you feel any better, I've been DE shaving for about 30 years and when I switch to new blades or a new razor, I sometimes get razor burn or weepers. I look at razors and blades like dogs. Each one has to be approached as a unique individual. Just because the last dog you came across wagged his tail and licked your face, never forget that the next one could chase you down the street and tear your genitals off. Though they may look the same or even act similarly, none will behave just like another. If you're new to DE and you found a blade that works for you, MISSION ACCOMPLISHED! I agree with the others. I'd start using them while you improve your technique. All of the rest of the blades you have left can be tested down the road. By that time you will know exactly how the Astras behave and you can use them as a solid benchmark.
If you are like me, who had been using cartridges for decades, it took me a long time to unlearn the cart shave habits. Now several years into DE shaving, I still need to improve my technique. I would say that your technique needs to improve, because you don't get good shaves from your other blades. When your technique improves, you really won't know until you go back to those other blades, if you still get weepers and nicks, you have to go back to your Astra. You may find that Astra is not your best blade once you technique is down pat.
Best advice: Stick with Astra until your technique is rock solid. No need to fix that which is not broken.
