I've used my new P&B Oberon Soap today for the first time and an issue that I've encountered a couple of times recently is back again... P&B state their soap is "thirsty", and I was having a conversation with another member a couple of days ago where we both admitted we may get a better lather from Tabac if we added a little more water. All.of that is still true when using my Omega pro49 boar brush, but every time I swap to JR168, a tuxedo synthetic, it's a totally different story. I ruined my lather today and had to start again. Usually I bowl lather and add water a little at a time with the omega, but I'm finding there's just about enough water in the synthetic to lather without adding any more (or maybe just a tiny bit), so it's easier to go face. Am I just being odd because I'm a newbie and everyone normal had found a work-around, or do others choose between bowl and face based on brush choice?
No. I bowl lather all my soap with whatever brush comes up in the rotation, beit badger, boar, synthetic or nylon. I have various sizes of each type, as well. What you have to understand is that every brush requires a different amount of water and a different amount of product to get a good lather. What you have to learn is what ratio each brush works best with. And all that applies to bowl OR face lathering.
I have brushes that I prefer one or the other, but I do not think there is a “better for one or the other” exactly. I have a couple of Chubby’s that are just SO good at face lathering that I almost can’t see using a bowl. I tend to bowl lather with my horses because I am very careful about tangling them. I tend to face lather synthetics, because usually when I use them I am in more of a time crunch. I have some longer handled barber brushes that I just like using with a bowl. As far as working better or not, I think it just takes getting used to the characteristics of each one.
What Steve said... I only face lather any more, but you do have to learn about each brush. I find it easier to add water, so I start with my brush wet but shook out.
Yup. No such thing as a "face lathering" brush or a "bowl lathering" brush or a "soap" brush or a "cream" brush, only personal preference brushes.
As a raw Newbie breaking in a couple of new Omega boar brushes I didn't know I wasn't supposed to enjoy the scrubby scritchy stiff bristles while face lathering. Seeing others using cups, mugs, scuttles and bowls I tried a couple for myself. The boar brushes softened and I got better at controlling both the amount of soap and water in my lathers. Currently I rarely face lather, preferring a textured ceramic bowl called a Suribachi. It's low sided, not very deep, and fits in my palm. Those same boar brushes (Omega #20248 & #10098) are still in use and have softened. I've add badger and synth brushes (APShaveCo Tuxedo). With boar or synth knotted brushes any soap or cream will do. Badger hair is just not as stiff making it more difficult to load harder soaps, so I use them almost exclusively with creams. The hair of badger brushes does absorb water. Boars need a little soaking to get them wet and softened up. Synths are not organic and do not absorb water so don't need any soaking time. All three do need to be wetted to get the soap to loosen up, especially harder soaps. I know I said synths don't absorb water. They do hold some, and release it quite easily. Generally when using a synth I need to give it a good 3 or 6 hard shakes to knock out the water or I'll end up with a goopy wet mess. Not a ruined lather, just have to add more soap to get the right mix. It's OK to make enough lather for a 6 pass shave - soap is cheap.
While badgers and synthetics don't need to soak as boars do, I still soak them. Why? They do heat up and make for a warmer lather.
I've used a brush since 1976 and truth be told I have never once used a bowl. I either face lather or, in the case of hard tallow soaps I lather right on the puck in a mug and then finish the lather on my face.
When I first started wet shaving, or rather went back to it, I did bowl lather. But that didn't last long as I much prefer to start the lather in it's tin or mug, then finish up with face lathering.
Ahh. I'm a cool water shaver and enjoy the exfoliation scritch of a new boar. I moisten but don't soak to soften.
Thanks for all your replies! The thing I find slightly confusing about face lathering is how you add water... surely either it washed the soap off the brush as you dip it? And if you have lather that's not quite ready on your face, do you have to add slightly more water than expected as that lather will thicken the stuff in the brush again? I think some experimentation is needed!
You'd be surprised at what a big difference just a little bit of water will do. If you shave with the sink full of water, like to do (to rinse my blade between swipes), just kiss the water with the very tips of your brush. If you run the water, just the slightest dribble on the tips, as @PickledNorthern suggested, is all you need. It still comes down to experimenting and learning how to use the tools YOU have. Stick with it. You'll get it!
I bowl lather, but I like to take my time brushing it on my face. I love the feeling of the brush and lather.
For me, the difference between bowl- and face-lathered soap is significant. When I use my Aesop bowl, I am looking for an airy, super-smooth, fluffy-type lather that reminds me of a whipped cream. I paint this lather on my face. When face-lathering, air is not as easily incorporated into the soap, thereby resulting in a denser, thicker, "heavier" lather, which reminds me of well-stirred yoghurt. Both techniques work equally as well with whichever brush I choose.
No. I always face lather. If a brush is not compatible with that, then I sell or trade it. -- Pitralon forever - Real pens have a nib - If it doesn't tick, it's not a watch.
Yes. I choose to face lather regardless of the brush I pick up. My brushes range from 18mm to 28mm and they all get used the same.
