Of Safety Razors and Blades - Aggressive or Mild, Sharp or Smooth - A General Overview

From what I've read, that is the reason some guys "cork" certain brands of blades, whereas others blades tend not to need it. I've never made it a practice myself so someone else will have to explain the ins/outs.

 

Consider hand-stropping your new blade before loading it into your razor. Some blades have a reputation for being a little 'rough' before they've been run over your skin for a bit, so hand-stropping helps. Other options include a good preshave treatment.

 

All I have to hand strip is a leather belt would that do?

 

No, you actually use the palm of your hand.

 

The old Twinplex stropper and similar devices do coax a bit of extra mileage out of carbon blades but I never noticed any real difference with stainless; in fact, some of them make stainless blades even worse. I mention this in case it's ever suggested you try one of these old devices for stainless blades. I have...save your money.

 

Sometimes if your skin is sensitive (like mine is) and the angle of your shaving is steep (instead of shallow) which I use, then the blade edge is exposed to the skin more and any small ping or irregularity in the blades edge will cause a nick or weeper. Blades use trade offs in some respects. Some go for high sharpness and sacrifice smoothness and some blades are the other way around (Big Ben is an example of a blade that sacrifices absolute sharpness to be smoother). The really great blades strike an equal compromise and high levels of both sharpness and smoothness. When you shave the first time your beard and skin actually strop the blade to get the some of irregularities out. Corking or hand stropping can achieve some of the same effects.

So remember, find a blade that is consistently smooth but is sharp enough for your beard, mind you angle if you wish to reduce aggression (shallow angle) and make sure you have a lather that provides plenty of cushion.

 

I am using Willie's and sharp from Switzerland also store brand Israeli blades.I just tried my first cold water shave with a Wilkinson a/a shave soap blend merkur progress razor set on 5 n/s then 3 on S/n pass and 3 on clean up and still the same results ok in 3 days I will a more shallow angle on my razor and see what happens.

Thanks everyone for your advice.
Take care.

 

That is an outstanding writeup, Gary! That will benefit countless numbers of people, both experienced wetshavers and those just starting out. Most of all, it will benefit those web surfers who just happen to stumble across your post and discover a whole new shaving world as a result.

 

Thanks GD! Very useful and thorough!

 

Thanks!

 

Gary
It does good to resurrect, some of these old post. I enjoyed read all of the posts again.
It was a great read when you originally posted it and a great read again just now.

 

Great post!!

 

A bump because I've been seeing more talk of "aggressive" blades lately.

 

And again.
I miss Gary.

 

Same.

 

What happened?

 

Took to not feeling well. Don't know the details.

 

Well, that sucks.