This is a quick photo essay how I set my brush knots. I will preface it by saying this is not the only way or the correct way - it is what works best for me after making a bunch of brushes. Would also ask anyone else with some good tips to please add to the thread. Simple elements are The Knot Handle Epoxy Important parts: Prep Work and a clean work station. The Knot - a matter of preference , loft height , plug size , badger hair , boar bristle or synthetic . I prefer badger hair in a short chubby loft. The origins of the best badger hair/knots is a subject of contention with many "wet shaving connoisseurs", some even believe that places like England and France actually still cull badgers to source the hair from them to use in their brushes - anything is possible. The Handle - An endless selection of materials that could be used for a shaving brush handle - use your imagination. Unfortunately plastic seem to be the norm these days - raw materials for these cost about $1 each per handle - the labor is the expensive part. Epoxy (not glue) - I suggest two part plumbers waterproof epoxy in separate tubes (easier to mix than the dual plunger variety) - this is made to be used around water and suits the purpose of gluing a knot quite well. I use a German brand called Pattex this works best for me. Have read folks using Gorilla Glue , clear silicone tub caulking and even crazy glue - think epoxy The most important thing before attempting to set the knot is your handle is clean and free of any dust or debris - this is true for any material being used whether or not you are doing a refurb of and old handle scored on eBay or petrified wood or stainless steel like the examples I am showing - same goes for the knot you are using - it should dry and dust free. Second is the fit - prior to setting the knot you want to make sure you have a perfect or as close to it as possible "fit" - like the old saying "To Be Sure , You Have To Make Sure" - be sure of the fit before epoxying anything. Below image is a knot placed in the handle w/o any epoxy - it "fits" Mixing the epoxy - I use a Q-Tip with the end snipped off to do this and keep some other Q-Tips on hand to wipe away any excess epoxy How much epoxy? , use enough but work clean - if you gunk up the knot base with glue it sure will not look very nice. I suggest to use most of the epoxy in the handle portion - this is your anchor - keep the rim of the handle opening as glue free as possible , use the q-tip ( the q-tip can be slightly damp with warm water) to wipe any excess away from the top and rim of the handle opening. Epoxy's work by joining bonds - so you need to apply epoxy to the plug (the yellow knot base) as well ,but this can be a light coating - as long as there is enough to form a bond. Again work clean here and use less than you may think is needed. These particular knots use a thick "plug" base and are quite easy to shape and work with - they also hold the hairs in securely Below image shows adhesion - I am pushing down on it using a bit of force - a small bit of epoxy squirts out around one edge - this quickly gets wiped away with the q-tip. Here is the knot "set" and ready for drying This epoxy is strong - I let it cure for a full 24 hours before the brush is even touched again - then it is fully dry and ready for use. Below image is of my personal brush made with a Jade handle - I'm trying to pull the knot out - the bond is very strong - this is the objective. Hope this helps some folks out there with their own projects. --- Greg / iKon Razors
This is an excellent post as questions about gluing knots seem to come up frequently. I've only glued one knot (re-gluing the knot in my Vulfix VS\5 boar brush). I used a similar approach, using JB weld since it's an epoxy designed for wet environments (and I had some on hand). I'd not use the JB again as if you made a small error and had a drop or two showing at the edge of the knot, it would be really obvious.
Cool thread. I had no idea they looked like that. Seems a really easy install but how do you get the old one out without ruining the handle?
I'm working with new handles, hopefully some of the brush restorers on the forum can add their experiences with removing and old knot and setting a new one.
Thanks for the post! How do you get the old knot out? Drill? Can they be pulled out or pried out with something like a screwdriver? Sorry, didn't read all the posts!
Great post! Very good information! Thank you for putting the time in to this to help people out! For refurbishing old brushes, to get the old knots out, I usually cut the knot down to the base with a razor blade, then drill out the knot using a drill bit slightly smaller than the knot, using care not to damage the handle. I then use a rotary tool to clean up any remaining knot using a cutting or grinding bit. From there, you need to decide how deep you want the knot set, and if necessary build up a base for it to sit on. From that point, the instructions above will work perfectly.
That method works great on knots with an over sized plug, something like a hand tied Vulfix knot require you to actually have more epoxy in the base of the handle and then place the bunched hair into it.
restore During a restore, I try to use pliers before a drill. Then, I use a low powered dremel on the inside to clean it up with one of the countless extentions avaiable. I use a cordless dremel that can be obtained cheaply from Walmart and comes in a set with all types of attachments. This is good to use for restoring straights too and other odd jobs. Anyway, the steps here can all be used during a restore once you get the old knot out. The key is to get it clean with a smooth surface before using the epoxy. The dremel can also be used to smooth out the handle if it's used. It has many sanding attachments that can be used on plastic, wood, etc. I'd recommend getting an old brush it poor condition and practice with it before attempting a nicer vintage bakelite handle that can cost $20 or so... the rotten knots are the easiest to pull out (obvi). You may need a drill on some but again, a courdless dremel is a fantastic weapon of choice for me! GL
this was very helpful. i agree that the dremel is very useful. i removed the first four knots ever this weekend and the dremel came in very handy for removing the remaining bristles around the edges, after i had drilled out the core. the grinding and sanding attachments were very good at getting the last ones and for smoothing out the interior. i have used goop for repairing a knot that had fallen out; haven't used it for a restore- the nice thing about goop is that if use too much you can just peel away the excess after it hardens a bit, and it doesn't seem to affect the surface.
Thanks for the post. I also like to use a Dremel in removing the knot. If there are any scuff/scratches on the handle, wet/dry sandpaper can remove those. I start with 1000 grit and it works well. I then polish the handle with Flitz polish and install the knot. Thanks for the info on the epoxy. I have been using some, but could only find 1 minute epoxy locally. That stuff really dries too fast to use with a brush as you must get everything set so quickly.
Greg...I'm intrigued by that jade handle. How did you machine it? It looks lathe turned but can one do that? Where do you get the raw jade? bill
a couple of things... first, has anyone heard of/used sugru? this is some moldable rubberized glue substance made by some squints from across the pond... it starts out like playdoh, which would allow you to roll it out into a "snake", and position it in the handle to create a relatively even ring to hold the knot in... overnight, it is supposed to cure into a slightly flexible rubbery substance, sort of like the rubber coating on the handles of pliers and the like. it is supposed to handle extreme cold and extreme heat plus humidity very well; sounds perfectly suited for an application like this. second, a question... my intent is to use a boar bristle knot from an inexpensive (proraso) brush and set it into a custom brush handle; sort of the opposite process that this thread seems to address. since i could care less about the existing plastic handle that the brush ships in, would it be feasible to just beat on it with a hammer and bust it to pieces, or is there a more civilized way to recover the knot in like-new condition from the handle and avoid damage (either from mechanical destruction or from the effects of steaming) i suppose that a third option would be to just purchase a new boar bristle knot, but ive found it far more difficult to find boar bristle knots in comparison to badger knots... suggestions? comments?
@GDCarrington is probably the best person to answer this, as he has extensive experience in removing knots from handles to 1. Get a look at the knot and 2. Use said knot in other handles. I believe he usually cuts the handle away below the knot with a cut off wheel or saw, then works his way upwards until the base of the knot is revealed, then either pushes the knot out or cuts the remaining bit of handle away from the knot. As for setting knots, I've used both two part epoxies and Gorilla Glue, and of the two, Gorilla Glue is easier to work with. You do have to keep a close eye on your project if you use Gorilla Glue, as it does expand. Should the expanding foamy glue rise above the handle's lip it can be cleaned away easily before it hardens. Once it hardens (in about 15-30 minutes) it is a real chore to clear away excess glue. It is not impossible though. It's best to use less than you think you will need and not have to clean it up at all. Also, GG is water activated, so the knot base and handle opening need to be damp. When setting, all knots, regardless of the type of glue used, need to be given a half twist to ensure an even coating of glue and good contact is made between handle and knot. Edit: excellent tutorial. I recommend that it should be moved to the tutorial section or stickied here in this forum.
