So, another newbie question: I've read many posts about using the first pass to go with the grain, the second across the grain, and the third against the grain. My question: why not just start either across our against the grain? Wouldn't you be able to use get passes that way? There is obviously a down side, or people would do it that way... What is it?
Well..the multiple pass approach is time honored and for most, starting with the grain represents a path of least resistance and a process towards gradual beard reduction done in stages. There are those who do use a more extreme method by just going against and or cross the grain and if that is what out works best for you then it's your shave, but for a beginning I would recommend the more conventional multi pass approach starting with the grain...
My multi pass approach involves going with the grain, with the grain and with the grain, just like the old Gillette inserts recommended. I can go across the grain, but rarely bother. I cannot go against the grain. I get irritation and ingrowns if I try. The three pass in different directions school of thought is fairly recent as these things go, the last ten or so years.
I always shave with the grain first. On work days I'll do one WTG pass with touch-up and be finished. On days with more time I'll go WTG and then across the grain. I've never attempted an against the grain pass. I think it would irritate my skin.
Gillette's shave scientists had to know that going only with the grain, even thrice, would result in more frequent need to shave in most cases. I don't have that much of a beard but I cannot get satisfactorily smooth unless I go against the grain. If I don't, I'll be shaving twice as often...in the old days that would've resulted in me burning through (and buying) blades that much faster.
I recently started not using a WTG pass unless I have multiple days growth then my first pass is WTG. When daily shaving I usually do 2 XTG passes, one right to left and the other left to right. Final pass is ATG. This is what I found that works for me.
With a DE or SE I start with a XTG then ATG with a straight or straight like I go N/S then S/N which is 2 XTG in different directions on my neck and a WTG and ATG on my face.
My 8th grade teacher advocated WTG/XTG/ATG for shaving. As a 45-year-old, I assure you it's been more than a decade since I was in 8th grade.
I'm not saying others didn't figure it out. It's a logical way to shave after all. I was just saying that it didn't become the de facto recommendation until the rise of the wet shaving forums.
I do a 3 pass shave. My three passes are at approximately 120 degree angles to each other, though the angles change depending on which area of the face I'm shaving. I never have ingrown hairs, and I attribute this to my first pass being WTG.
If I do not start WTG I get allot of irritation. By reducing the beard with each pass means I can go ATG without irritation. My hair is a little too tough to start ATG, in fact for me WTG, XTG, XTG(opposite direction) and then finally ATG gives me the best results in closeness and lack of irritation. Just try it both ways and see what works for you.
I shave until I can't feel any more stubble. Up, down, sideways, backwards...'cuz my whiskers grow in a pretty messed-up direction.
I appreciate your challenging accepted norms. I only do two passes but I will try just ATG a few times and provide my input. It'll have to wait until next week though, I have to travel for a job interview and am not ready to risk turning my face into scrimshaw before an interview. I used to shave with carts ATG and dry sometimes even. I haven't tried just ATG with DE IIRC. We'll see.
Because if I only did two passes, I wouldn't be doing three passes. Three passes takes longer than doing only two passes. Two passes is quicker, thus less time than three passes. Bottom line - I enjoy my shaves, and the longer I can stretch it out, the more I enjoy it. Besides, I do get a closer shave by making all three passes.
Straight Razor Place, Shave my Face, Badger & Blade. I believe all three of those are over ten years old. The Shave Den is close, but not quite there yet.
I still think your sentiment is correct. I learned 30+ years ago to go WTG, then ATG to smooth things up. I seldom used anymore lather for that second pass, and it wan't all that comfortable. It seems that with the resurgence of wet shaving as a hobby, and with it forum participation, the idea of beard reduction and an enjoyable shave has grown. I know that my grampa and my dad never did a full three lather, three pass shave, and I don't think most people who aren't shave nerds like us do either. Too bad for them.
