Very cool! How easy was it to get out of the mold with the thin silicone bits in the signature?

Honestly, it came out easier than I expected. I used LocTite epoxy with some grey mica powder for this first test because I wanted it to set in 20 minutes. As you can see it has a few voids, but it turned out pretty good considering.

To make the mold, I first printed a form. I could have used the cardboard from a roll of toilet paper and some hot glue, but I have the 3D printer so I'm going to use it.



I used this silicone from Amazon. It has a very long work time and cures for 12 hours. So, bubbles are less of an issue. The silicone comes out of the form easily. I basically just cut a slot down one side.



And peel the silicone off.



As long as the silicone has cured for 12 hours, it's ready to use.

I sized the original engraving to .975" in diameter so it would easily fit inside a 1" hole drilled with a simple 1" spade bit. I left the piece big enough to cast a larger blank that can be parted off on the lathe. I'm wondering if I should have left the whole thing bigger so it can be trimmed to fit later.

In the piece pictured previously, I used the heavily pigmented paint I use to fill my aluminum engravings. When filling aluminum engravings I remove the excess with acetone. That process doesn't work well with resin. It would be better to use a thick filler and sand it to a smooth finish.

I feel like I'm just scratching the surface with this. There's so much more that can be done here.

Please share any ideas.

Very nice! May I ask what you're using for you CAD/CAM?

Thank you. Vetric VCarve Desktop is the program.

Another none shaving Item from my shop. As long as no one minds I like posting other stuff I turn here. This is another TIG torch back cap.



And while I was looking at some of my UV light reactive rock collection I discovered this is also UV reactive. Bonus.

Very cool.

Here is a handle I made for @twhite recently. It can be used with SEs with the adapter screw I included or DEs without the adapter screw.



Here is the razor head he sent me a picture of with the handle. It's the TOMX a tribute to the FAMEX and is one of his creations.

Here is another TIG torch back cap I made.

Sweet


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thanks Tom. I many ways.

What type of torch do you have?

Hmmm. I see Lincoln TIG mate when I search that but I don't see Weldmate.
I was also asking about the torch size but wasn't specific enough. A lot of torches go by 9 style or 20 style torch to specify what size the consumables are.

I've been wanting to try to make a handle for a Schick E or G. I just couldn't bring myself to destroying a good original handle. Thanks to a friend on another shaving forums who sent me this razor head. (It was already missing a handle.) I used a drill press, band saw, table router and lots of hand sanding to make this acrylic/resin handle from a pen blank I picked up at my local Woodcraft.

As this thread is for brushes, please start/make future non-brush related posts in their appropriate forums. For example, if there isn't one already, start a 'Handlemakers Thread - Calling all Turners' thread in the General Shaving Talk forum and post razor handle turns there.

Thanks all!

That is very nice. I have made several replacement handles for Schick E/Gs from different woods, and I can appreciate the time and effort it takes for such a little piece. Beautiful, just beautiful.

stunning.looks awesome..

Thank you kindly.

I always use mineral oil on my wooden bowls. Works great! Good job.

Haven't tried Walrus oil. I'll check it out. Thanks.

Glad to be an inspiration.