Discussion in 'The Brush' started by jtspartan, Mar 4, 2019.
Not sure I understand about the brushes. You know this is a lid for a bowl, right?
That looks awesome. How did you get my picture for it though?
No, before you changed the post.
I thought it's a bowl.
Picture did not help.
Sorry for the confusion. I make wooden bowls but nothing on the bottom but smooth ribs.
Maybe you can have both, a smooth surface and a lid matching carved image.
With CNC and a little epoxy resin It's easy ... and fun!!
I'm expiramenting with silicone molds. Want to be able to make signature inlays. My first attempt seemed to work okay.
@jtspartan what do you think?
A little better close-up. Needs more fill and possibly a top coat. Perhaps casting in a pressure pot or heat gun.
Edit: I keep messing with it looking for perfection. I think it would be awesome with some pigmented fill in the signature. I've done what I can do with the materials I have on hand.
Very cool! How easy was it to get out of the mold with the thin silicone bits in the signature?
Honestly, it came out easier than I expected. I used LocTite epoxy with some grey mica powder for this first test because I wanted it to set in 20 minutes. As you can see it has a few voids, but it turned out pretty good considering.
To make the mold, I first printed a form. I could have used the cardboard from a roll of toilet paper and some hot glue, but I have the 3D printer so I'm going to use it.
I used this silicone from Amazon. It has a very long work time and cures for 12 hours. So, bubbles are less of an issue. The silicone comes out of the form easily. I basically just cut a slot down one side.
And peel the silicone off.
As long as the silicone has cured for 12 hours, it's ready to use.
I sized the original engraving to .975" in diameter so it would easily fit inside a 1" hole drilled with a simple 1" spade bit. I left the piece big enough to cast a larger blank that can be parted off on the lathe. I'm wondering if I should have left the whole thing bigger so it can be trimmed to fit later.
In the piece pictured previously, I used the heavily pigmented paint I use to fill my aluminum engravings. When filling aluminum engravings I remove the excess with acetone. That process doesn't work well with resin. It would be better to use a thick filler and sand it to a smooth finish.
I feel like I'm just scratching the surface with this. There's so much more that can be done here.
Please share any ideas.
Very nice! May I ask what you're using for you CAD/CAM?
Thank you. Vetric VCarve Desktop is the program.
Another none shaving Item from my shop. As long as no one minds I like posting other stuff I turn here. This is another TIG torch back cap.
And while I was looking at some of my UV light reactive rock collection I discovered this is also UV reactive. Bonus.
Here is a handle I made for @twhite recently. It can be used with SEs with the adapter screw I included or DEs without the adapter screw.
Here is the razor head he sent me a picture of with the handle. It's the TOMX a tribute to the FAMEX and is one of his creations.
Here is another TIG torch back cap I made.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Thanks Tom. I many ways.
What type of torch do you have?
Hmmm. I see Lincoln TIG mate when I search that but I don't see Weldmate.
I was also asking about the torch size but wasn't specific enough. A lot of torches go by 9 style or 20 style torch to specify what size the consumables are.
I've been wanting to try to make a handle for a Schick E or G. I just couldn't bring myself to destroying a good original handle. Thanks to a friend on another shaving forums who sent me this razor head. (It was already missing a handle.) I used a drill press, band saw, table router and lots of hand sanding to make this acrylic/resin handle from a pen blank I picked up at my local Woodcraft.
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