A Few Starter Restorations

Discussion in 'The Brush' started by mvd, Sep 27, 2018.

  1. mvd

    mvd Well-Known Member

    I have finally been able to get off my rear end and work on a few brush restorations. So far, I have done three easy-to-restore Simms brushes. I'm learning lot about what not to do, lol.

    Now I am working on a red & cream Canadian Fuller brush with a 2-band 24mm TNG badger and a Barbershop Brush with a 22mm boar brush.

    I would appreciate any feedback on the Barbershop brush. You can see from the picture that I have either scrapped or got clearcoat on the rubber. How do you think sanding the rubber would work out? Would I lose the lettering? Otherwise I will stick to polish and hope for the best.

  2. RyX

    RyX DoH! Staff Member

    If it's glue on the black ferrule, try Goof-Off. It's good at removing label glue from glass bottles. On the other possibility - if it's scratches you'll need to do a progression of fine / finer / finest abrasives to reduce the imperfections.

    Jim @jimjo1031 & Keith @Enrico might have solutions since they both enjoy a challenging restoration.
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  3. Enrico

    Enrico Well-Known Member

    When I polish and want to preserve lettering; I cover it with electrical tape and use Turtle Wax rubbing compound to get minor scratches and work it up to a fine shine
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  4. mvd

    mvd Well-Known Member

    Thank you for the tips! I will post the finished brushes when they are done. Enrico, your thread where you show a picture of all the needed restoration equiptment was very useful. That is where I learned about adding bb's for weight--thanks for sharing all the work you do.
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  5. jimjo1031

    jimjo1031 never bloomed myself

    Gotta agree with @Enrico, cover up the letters. Any sanding will remove the lettering and polishing will probably do the same as it's only printed on with ink. One option with tape is to use a low tack masking tape as the type used for modeling.
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  6. Enrico

    Enrico Well-Known Member

    When I’ve had brushes with only ink; I put a small piece of tissue paper just over the inked area and tape it on as protection. I’ve learned much through my mistakes.
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  7. jimjo1031

    jimjo1031 never bloomed myself

    same here...............
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  8. mvd

    mvd Well-Known Member

    Well, here is how the Fuller turned out. The extra weight of the bbs and the quarter is a definite improvement. I don't have the proper Dremel polishing attachments so this was done by hand and I only sanded at 400, 600, 1500, and 2000 so it isn't perfect. I was a bit afraid that starting at 220 would be a mistake, so I decided to live with the odd flaw in the finish.

    The only issue I had with the Fuller was the interior metal ring which I had to dig out, bend, and pull out of the centre.

    On the other project, I decided to test the theory that the standard polishing attachment for the Dremel may ruin the finish on a brush. Turns out that theory is factual and my Barbershop project has come to an end. This was always my practice brush, but still a slightly irritating "lesson learned."

    The biggest lesson I have learned during my first 4 brush restores (not incl the failed one) is how much work it is. It was when I was bent over the project, sweating behind my face mask and safety glasses, boring out the hole and checking the fit every 30 seconds or so that I learned this...and then there was still the sanding to do!

    Last edited: Sep 29, 2018
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  9. Enrico

    Enrico Well-Known Member

    I only polish by hand and yes, it is a lot of work.

    By the way great job :happy088:
    mvd likes this.
  10. mvd

    mvd Well-Known Member

    Thanks, @Enrico

    Since the Barbershop brush didn't turn out, I decided to do the Simms brush below, instead. On this one, I was able to take turns drilling from behind and pulling from the front until the knot popped out. I plan to epoxy it together, weight it, and drop in a 22mm synbad knot from APShaveco.

    I have learned that I prefer 24mm knots with a high loft, but a couple of 22mm knots are all that is left from my order.

    After this one, I think will only restore brushes that I find particularly nice or unique. This will be my 5th restore--the goal was to try cashmere, tuxedo, badger, boar, and the synbad. Mission almost accomplished!

    My only vague concern/reflection about brush restoration is thinking about how difficult it may be to restore a brush the second time with bb's, washers, cork, and coins and such epoxied into the handle. I think it may be a nightmare.
  11. Enrico

    Enrico Well-Known Member

    @mvd I'm glad you were able to disassemble the Simms brush. I try to clean the threads up well so it goes together better. If it doesn't I remove the threads from the bottom portion, clean both surfaces and glue tightly together. As for the possibility of a headache of future re-knotting ... leave an extra 1/4 inch spacing between BB's and knot filled with cork or doweling; so future re-re-knotting would be easier. I hope this makes sense.
  12. mvd

    mvd Well-Known Member

    Yes, great idea! Thank you again for the advice. This one should be done in a few days. I am using Devcon 2-ton epoxy so it takes a while for each stage to set and cure. I will post it when finished. I love the Simms brushes.

    Don't know about you but it is nice turning one person's "throw away" into something useful once again.
  13. Enrico

    Enrico Well-Known Member

    It is a lot of work, but very satisfying!

    Don't forget to re-letter it in yellow or gold; on black, it really pops!
  14. mvd

    mvd Well-Known Member

    Finally got the dremel attachments from China and polished it up. I'm not convinced it is better than by hand. 22mm Synbad which I used yesterday for the first time. I like it better than the Tuxedo and the Cashmere. It's the only one of the three I can get a good face lather with. All are fine for bowl lathering. I just wish it was a 24mm or 30mm which are next on my list...as is a premium badger knot. [​IMG]

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