[REVIEW] Ariana & Evans 2020: Kaizen Thanks to my friend TheDruid@ilRasoio, I have two models of Ariana & Evans on trial. Kaizen, complete with his aftershave, and Cannabliss Santal. Given the high expectations for the new base, I immediately put the first one to the test. Even if the label is different, these are the details from the site. Ingredients list: (INCI) Stearic Acid, Beef Tallow, Aqua, Goats Milk, Potassium Hydroxide, Kokum Butter, Shea Butter, Castor Oil, Cocoa Butter, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycerin, Manteca (Pig Fat), Aloe Juice, Avocado Oil, Hemp Seed Oil, Apricot Kernal Seed Oil, Lanolin, Agave, Slippery Elm, Sodium Lactate, Xanthan Gum, Silk Amino Acid, Tussah Silk, Marshmallow Root. I don't know if it's an old label, or a different formulation. The differences (Mango, Greek Yogurt, Camelia, Bentonite, Beeswax) are marked. In fact, the specimen I have in use has proven exceptional in mechanics ... but less in conditioning. The thing that struck me most is the speed with which Kaizen soap produces a perfect lather. It explodes in a cream with a yogurt consistency, shining and covering, more easily than its antagonists. Usually the top products are very rich and require some work to incorporate a lot of water. This A&E is not thirsty, it takes a little more water than average, but it does it quickly. In a couple of minutes, better with high density synthetics, the result is perfect. I think a lot is related to pig fat (Manteca). This, together with the other structural components, produces an incredible primary lubrication. Unfortunately it is not equally valid on the secondary one, definitely not sufficient for this category. However, the result (with a good technique) does not make you regret more structured products. Unfortunately this detail affects (much) the consistency of the product. The paste is almost as soft as a cream, the consistency is gelatinous to the touch. This leads to a not high yield, especially with not super dense natural lofts. In fact, even when scooping from the jar, the quantity required for three passes is not so little. In comparison, Stirling goes way better. Another detail is that animal fats, and some vegetables (here, Karité and Cacao), have superficial action. Unlike other more exotic ones, these only produce mechanical actions. So the deep action that produces true skin conditioning is less. If this detail is not evident on normal skin, it is glaring on my dermatitis. In fact, I used soap alone and the result got worse over the days. Nothing striking, but still I feel an unexpected discomfort. Even my nose feels quite different notes ... Fragrance: • Mandarin, Calabrian Bergamot, Lemon Peel, Neroli • Honeysuckle, Green Apple, Rose • Tobacco Absolute, Haitian Vetiver, Sandalwood, Cedarwood Fragrance is the most painful point for me. So much so that I abandoned the lotion after the first use, being very fragrant. At the beginning I smell Pineapple, of the fresh and ripe type with which in the tropics succulent smoothies are made. Unfortunately I don't find the other notes, unlike a particularly unpleasant Cedarwood. It reminds me in full the rotting acid acrore of Castle Forbes, which I hate. Fortunately, the Floid Blue is so overwhelming that I solved it effectively. So I was very lucky to have tried It ... without buying !!!
In the end the doubt is revealed: the label is of the formulation of January 2020. The same as Cannabliss Santal, very different from the new Formula Kaizen. This is the list of ingredients (INCI): Stearic Acid, Beef Tallow, Goats Milk, Shea Butter, Potassium Hydroxide, Kokum Butter, Mango Butter, Glycerin, Cocoa Butter, Castor Oil, Manteca (Pig Fat), Strangisto Giaourti (Strained Yoghurt), Avocado Oil, Coconut Oil, Camellia Oil from Japan, Sodium Hydroxide, Lanolin, Agave, Bentonite Clay, Beeswax, Sodium Lactate, Argan Oil, Fragrance & Essential Oils. Already at the sight, and above all to the touch, you notice the difference. Thicker, non-gelatinous and more homogeneous consistency. But above all it is seen in behavior and yield. In fact Kaizen is very fast ... in everything. For my taste, this version of the A&E base is the best. Pay for sure with a little speed, but all the other features are better. A little less comfortable, it has a slightly higher water point and therefore requires more work. But once achieved, the resulting thick cream is a wonder almost at the level of Kaizen. But with greater lubricating capacity, especially secondary lubrication. And as usual, this detail also has a positive effect on the conditioning of the skin. In fact the postshave of this base for me is clearly superior. One detail that I find truly fantastic is the fragrance. The olfactory pyramid is not public, but the description is true. It starts with a rich and spicy herbaceous aroma (Herb, but not too much !!). A floral body and notes of rum continue. Finally, with cedar wood, sandalwood and a touch of patchouli. All harmonious, with light notes of Cannabis and a lot of luxurious Sandalwood. The rest creates a well-designed and coherent melange, very pleasant. Perhaps only those fond of the most natural genre will be disappointed. In fact, this A&E is very different from TFS Stupefacente and similars. Less flat, more chic, definitely more exciting. Really perfect with the "Terre de Sarment" perfume. I also find the packaging beautiful. Solid, effective, and classic graphics but with a modern touch. In summary, this model I will regret. Not so much for the technical characteristics. Unfortunately, he is unable to keep my dermatitis at bay on his own. But for the general characteristics, enhanced by the fragrance. Which (from what he says) also seems to be Peter Charkalis' favorite.
For what it is worth, I tried the A&E Kaizen based on reviews and the fact that I really liked the label artwork. For the purpose of this review I compare it to Cella, my tallow base soap standard. As has been previously described, Kaizen is a soft soap, softer than Cella so it loads easier. It seems to be less particular about the product to water ratio so it is very easy to lather. The similarity stops there. Kaizen is not as slick as Cella and gives a rougher shave. You can not go over areas you already shaved without re-lathering. Cushioning is fine due to the high beef tallow content but that leads to another problem: the stench. Kaizen's perfume aroma is mild so the beef tallow scent comes through if you are sensitive to that sort of thing. Cella's strong marzipan scent completely hides any tallow aroma. Post shave feel is similar except it is easier to get razor burn with Kaizen so your aftershave may sting more. Finally, Kaizen leaves a mess in the sink. Cella must have more detergent in it which helps it rinse cleanly. In short, good breeding wins out here. A&E's relative inexperience to Cella's 100+ year heritage shows. I will be giving away my A&E shave soap if anyone is interested. Tedolph
