August 2016 30 Day Rule/Focus Pix & Discussion

You know that filter you mentioned in PM? It's on overdrive now. Probably a good thing.

 

It's not the shenanigans I'm waiting on to break loose.

 

August Focus Day 18:

Stirling Synthetic Brush
Erasmic Shave Stick
Gem Damaskeene
Stirling Unscented PSB
Clubman AS

 

SOTD August 18th


Shake Sharp
Personna Lab Blue (second shave on first edge)
IB Amici
Satin Tip the Purest
Tangerine AS & Nivea ASB

Good morning friends! This morning I had another excellent shave with the Shake Sharp, a razor that takes a standard DE blade but only exposes one edge at a time. Despite using a DE blade it shaves very much like an SE in that the proper angle is with the cap nearly flat on the face. I had a little difficulty holding this angle around my chin which resulted in a little bit of discomfort but everywhere else was flawless. I half expected the Personna to fail after having one full shave on this side of the blade previously but it worked flawlessly. Next shave I will flip the blade and have a brand new cutting surface! Have a great day everyone!

 

August Straight Focus
It is fun to shave with a razor that is over two hundred years old. I wonder about its history and who brought it over from Dublin.
What's amazing is that it still gives wonderful shaves.
Route 66 Twisted Tweed
Wolf Whiskers Brush
Millikin Stub Tail
Alum
Thayers WH
Ogallala Bay Rum
Have fun!

 

Day 6
AoS best badger brush (broken in)
Proraso Green Shaving Soap Jar
Gillette New Long Comb
Astra Superior Platinum Blade.
Alum
Lucky Tiger Aftershave

Today I whipped up a ton of foam. Focusing on riding the cap and proper angle, I took my 1st pass with the grain while listening to the sound of my whiskers being removed. My second pass, was across the grain working on maintaining the same angle using sound and muscle memory. I looked in my shave bowl and at the brush and there was plenty of foam for a third pass. This pass was against the grain still carefully maintaining the same angle while riding the cap. When done there was a little feedback from the alum, but nothing of note. No weepers, nicks or rash. Splashed on the Lucky Tiger and took a deep breath to get the fine scent deep into my nose. When done, I would declare this a DFS. I have a few questions:

1. If the angle is correct on a three pass shave, would I need to use more pressure than the weight of the razor to get BBS or is this still a function of the angle?
2. I have been referring to WTG as north to south, XTG as east to west and ATG as south to north. Feeling my face, it actually feels like WTG is west to east, XTG would be north or south and ATG would be east to west. Could my whiskers be growing sideways?

Sorry to sound like I'm over thinking this, but I will become DE master (I'm already collecting popsicle sticks).

 

Yes, it is the direction of the hair growth that you need to pay attention to. For instance on my right cheek my hair grows left to right, so a WTG pass is left to right. An XTG pass could be top to bottom or bottom to top and an ATG pass would re right to left. To make things more complicated your hair can grown in different directions on different areas. On my left cheek my hair grows from my sideburn toward my jaw line and on my neck I have a swirl pattern that I have to deal with. Lookup a face map chart on google and try to fill it out after a few days of growth, you will be surprised at the difference it makes knowing what direction the hair is growing and what direction to attack it with on each pass. I do not ever go wholly ATG as it causes too much irritation and ingrown hairs instead I go WTG and then 2 passes XTG in opposite directions and am able to achieve DFS to BBS results most days.

 

So based on what your saying, I calculated the way to get BBS from every razor, blade, soap/cream, brush, & facial hair direction combination that I have.

 

I always try to imagine WHO were the early users of these early stub tail razors (early 19th century)? Barbers? And how many faces were shaven by this particular razor over the years?
Two hundred years is quite a life for any item often used daily. We think of vintage razors such as Gillette FatBoys as being old (less than 60 years!). When one considers this old straight razor was made in Ireland predating the Great Irish Famine (1845-1849) and the USA was barely 30-35 years old as country, it gives pause to reflect the history of this piece. Was it brought to America by its owner during the Famine when a million Irish came across the Atlantic? Who knows for certain? Fun to think about!

 

I love algebra! Thank you @bscarpenter for finally breaking it down into an understandable equation. The tough part comes when applying it to the geometry of your face.
When using most any DE my pattern is the same. Very similar when using a SE razor. Straights are a whole 'nother matter. Much of this comes from repetition, trial & error. The repetition part takes time. For the trial and error; styptic, alum, and aftershave lotion.

 

Adjustable August; Side by Side Assessment

Stirling Mountain Man & VDH Boar
Gillette 195 ; E4 ('59) VS. F2 ('60)
Alum & Avon Deep Woods AS



I hate to let a razor go before taking it for a test shave. So today is a side by side comparison shave. My very best user grade Fat Boy (E4) tested it's mettle against a recent flea market find, another Fat Boy (F2) Both are of the early type with slots or holes in the retaining cap that make for easier breakdown, should the need arise for deep cleaning or replating. Whipped up some slick Stirling lather, popped in one of my dwindling supply of Voskhod blades, and shaved offhand side at 7 with the new-to-me unit. Swapped the fresh blade into the trusty old 195 and gave my dominate hand side the same number of passes. Alum swipe gave similar light tingle, and the Avon AS still smells great.
Verdict; Gillette had high standards and these two 55+ year old razors shave nearly identical.
I hear it raining outside, again. That's preferable to hearing the rain coming inside. On the upside the South Coast hasn't had a hurricane this season. Yet. June 1st - November 30...

 

1. If the angle is correct you do not need to use any pressure, just the weight of the razor.
2. As stated before you need to map out your whisker growth. From my jaw line up it grows north south but below the jaw line it goes from chin towards my ears.
You are making great progress, stick with it and the shaves will just keep getting better.

 

Pre season in the den.

Last season made this Wade and Butcher wedge made the team but it is a new year and there are new razors in camp.

The edge was very smooth but the sharpness was acceptable but I would like it a little sharper. Four passes and one weeper and the alum gave just tickle. I finished BBS. I do need to tighten the pin on this razor.

Irritation A Closeness A Smoothness A Sharpness A-

I think this razor will make the team until we can find a prettier example of this razor.

 

Awesome Adjustable Arko August!!!!

August 18

Grand Blade Trial -Week off

Edwin Jagger DE89L
Blade - (1)
Soap - Proraso
Brush - BoS2 Semogue 620
Post - Alum, Aqua Velva Musk

Switched today to a modern razor. The EJ DE89L is a solid performer and one of the first razors I bought. Decided to break out a great NOS blade. The Gillette 7 o'clock Super Platinum from Russia, when they were still made in Russia. This blade would be top 3 if they still made them. Now they are made in India in the black wrapper and they lost a lot in the transition.

Proraso and the Semogue 620 for a fantastic lather. The 620 took less than 20 seconds to load and start a lather in the soap bowl. Amazing how it tore into the soap and really made it work. Glad I got shamed into buying it. Two passes to a near BBS with this outstanding blade and the alum was totally quiiet. AV Musk for the finish and out the door I went.

I'll stay with this blade a couple more days at least and rotate some soaps with it. Really great shave. Hope you all had a great day!

 

No shave, but it was a pretty good day. I got my link to the online Wolf Whiskers order form this evening, and I also received a shipping notice for my Portland Razor Company Chimera western grind Kamisori.

 

Kamisori are trending, as are injectors. Straights are coming right along.
A year from now I wonder if anyone will be using a DE?

 

Proraso basically just rocks. Solid foolproof performance...

 

This may be one of my last all DE months. I am considering going shavette only, all the time.

You heard it here first.

 

Hey!! I didn't shave today. We are busy out here in the prairie! Other than that...all is quiet in Colorado.

Have a great Friday!
☺

 

Well there are those who, for whatever reason, can't use a straight or a kamisori. As for injectors, yeah I've seen a lot of growth in those. Something tells me that there will always be DE's around though, but perhaps not as dominant as they once were. Well, definitely not as dominant.

I think as the traditional shaving movement has continued to grow the skill set has advanced with it as well as the interest in learning different razors and techniques. It's a great thing since it keeps the movement growing and certainly adds a lot more variety to the discussion. DE's still seem to be the "gateway razor" as well. As long as there are vintage razors around I'll always have DE's in the mix. I'm not as thrilled with most of the modern ones, though I'm gaining a bit more appreciation as I see them used and read the various reviews.