Discussion in 'Razor Restoration' started by DaltonGang, Jan 2, 2017.
Great save, Scott!
W.H.Morley & Sons "Clover Brand.
Hoshitombo 6000, Folding Kamisori. It cost $12.50, so I rolled the dice.
Here is a little restoration. It was much bigger than it looked. There were chips in the blade, and a new bevel was needed. This cast steel was rock hard.
Before: George Wostenholm & Sons IXL.
I don't have a before..... Cleaned these up this evening!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looks like a couple of dandies!
I couldn't resist this one, since it came so cheap. Pretty good shape, with the personal "inscription " of some previous owner:$
A little sanding, a little polishing, and a trip to the hones and this Robeson will earn his keep. Excellent shaver
This is the first restore I have done in a long time. I won this at an auction along with some other blades. I am partial to the Sheffield blades so off to work I went. I want to give huge thanks to Glenn @gssixgun and my friend Marty for all the tips and encouragement. Also, thank you to all of you who post your work and give tips. I couldn't have done this without you. My pinning at the pivot point leaves a lot to be desired, but this blade is more utilitarian. I left a lot of pitting because I wanted to save as much metal as possible. I am sad though in that I lost the blade etching.
I went up to 1500grit paper before polishing it with lots of Maas. I sell detail supplies so I have lots of high grit papers.
Thanks again to everyone for your posting tips and encouragement
Great job buddy! How do you avoid sanding out the impression on the blade? Mine used to say "Medium Hollow Ground" but after sanding, most all the words are gone.
What a makeover! Nice job on that old fella
Is there a before and after for DE? Didn't see one.
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
Finally found some flitz locally and decided to see how much a few things would clean up. Needless to say Im happy with how they came out. Unfortunately now I really need to redo the inside of my tuckaway case. Sadly the pics don't do then justice but the tuckaway was a huge improvement.
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
Well, for me, I weigh out what I want the end results to be. Some razors have deep pitting, close to the lettering. If you want all of the pitting out, lettering might be compromised. It's up to you, as to how far you want to go. I don't start out any more aggressive than 320 grit, around stamped lettering, if I can help it. Take your time.
I'll keep that in mind next time. Thank you. Due to pitting, I had to go all the way down to 80 grit so emblems didn't stand a chance
Very nice work, on the scales.
I believe it was @HolyRollah who advised on this subject, while back. He suggested that when he has excessive pitting, that cannot be removed, just polish it up with wet/dry sandpaper, and don't use buffing compounds. Sometimes less polish on pitted blades, shows less pitting in the end. It works. If you take the shine down, on this blade, to around an 800 grit, and work your was back to 1200-1500(subjective preferences), you might get less noticeable pitting. Please don't take offense to any of my advise, this is all a matter of taste, and is very subjective. Also, each razor behaves differently to restorations.
By the way, the shinier the surface, the more glaringly obvious the pitting becomes on the blade face or tang.
Thanks , Scott; especially for the tips so that I could get these in this condition
No offense taken, thank you for your input.
I see your point there. I will save the Uber shine for blades in better condition. Thanks Kevin
Separate names with a comma.