Before and After Restoration Thread.

Discussion in 'Razor Restoration' started by DaltonGang, Jan 2, 2017.

  1. Spyder

    Spyder Well-Known Member

    Great save, Scott!
     
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  2. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    W.H.Morley & Sons "Clover Brand.
    Before:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    After;

    P6141010.JPG
    P6141011.JPG
     
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  3. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Hoshitombo 6000, Folding Kamisori. It cost $12.50, so I rolled the dice.

    Before:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    After::
    Hoshitombo 6000.JPG
     
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  4. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Here is a little restoration. It was much bigger than it looked. There were chips in the blade, and a new bevel was needed. This cast steel was rock hard.

    Before: George Wostenholm & Sons IXL.
    P6281039.JPG

    After
    P7011049.JPG
     
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  5. Heljestrand23

    Heljestrand23 Well-Known Member

    I don't have a before..... Cleaned these up this evening! IMG_7162.JPG IMG_7163.JPG


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  6. Spyder

    Spyder Well-Known Member

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  7. Spyder

    Spyder Well-Known Member

    I couldn't resist this one, since it came so cheap. Pretty good shape, with the personal "inscription " of some previous owner:$
    A little sanding, a little polishing, and a trip to the hones and this Robeson will earn his keep. Excellent shaver:)

    IMG_1044.JPG IMG_1021.JPG IMG_1043.JPG
     
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  8. TheFiveO

    TheFiveO Well-Known Member

    This is the first restore I have done in a long time. I won this at an auction along with some other blades. I am partial to the Sheffield blades so off to work I went. I want to give huge thanks to Glenn @gssixgun and my friend Marty for all the tips and encouragement. Also, thank you to all of you who post your work and give tips. I couldn't have done this without you. My pinning at the pivot point leaves a lot to be desired, but this blade is more utilitarian. I left a lot of pitting because I wanted to save as much metal as possible. I am sad though in that I lost the blade etching.
    BEFORE
    [​IMG]

    AFTER:
    [​IMG]

    I went up to 1500grit paper before polishing it with lots of Maas. I sell detail supplies so I have lots of high grit papers.

    Thanks again to everyone for your posting tips and encouragement
     
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  9. TheFiveO

    TheFiveO Well-Known Member

    Great job buddy! How do you avoid sanding out the impression on the blade? Mine used to say "Medium Hollow Ground" but after sanding, most all the words are gone.
     
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  10. Spyder

    Spyder Well-Known Member

    What a makeover! Nice job on that old fella :happy088:
     
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  11. Stu929

    Stu929 Well-Known Member

    Is there a before and after for DE? Didn't see one.

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
     
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  12. Spyder

    Spyder Well-Known Member

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  13. Stu929

    Stu929 Well-Known Member

    Finally found some flitz locally and decided to see how much a few things would clean up. Needless to say Im happy with how they came out. Unfortunately now I really need to redo the inside of my tuckaway case. Sadly the pics don't do then justice but the tuckaway was a huge improvement.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
     
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  14. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Well, for me, I weigh out what I want the end results to be. Some razors have deep pitting, close to the lettering. If you want all of the pitting out, lettering might be compromised. It's up to you, as to how far you want to go. I don't start out any more aggressive than 320 grit, around stamped lettering, if I can help it. Take your time.
     
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  15. TheFiveO

    TheFiveO Well-Known Member

    I'll keep that in mind next time. Thank you. Due to pitting, I had to go all the way down to 80 grit so emblems didn't stand a chance
     
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  16. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Very nice work, on the scales.:happy088:
     
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  17. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    I believe it was @HolyRollah who advised on this subject, while back. He suggested that when he has excessive pitting, that cannot be removed, just polish it up with wet/dry sandpaper, and don't use buffing compounds. Sometimes less polish on pitted blades, shows less pitting in the end. It works. If you take the shine down, on this blade, to around an 800 grit, and work your was back to 1200-1500(subjective preferences), you might get less noticeable pitting. Please don't take offense to any of my advise, this is all a matter of taste, and is very subjective. Also, each razor behaves differently to restorations.
     
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  18. HolyRollah

    HolyRollah BaconLord Staff Member

    Moderator
    By the way, the shinier the surface, the more glaringly obvious the pitting becomes on the blade face or tang.
     
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  19. Spyder

    Spyder Well-Known Member

    Thanks , Scott; especially for the tips so that I could get these in this condition:)
     
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  20. TheFiveO

    TheFiveO Well-Known Member

    No offense taken, thank you for your input.

    I see your point there. I will save the Uber shine for blades in better condition. Thanks Kevin
     
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