Black TTO handle refinishing for the multi-hobby Hobbiest

Discussion in 'Safety Razors' started by Rob72, Mar 9, 2012.

  1. Rob72

    Rob72 Member

    I posted this elsewhere, and thought it might be useful to others. Pretty basic- a long handle Super Adjustable and a flair-tip. I received these in lot-buys. They were generally good, but with some calcifications that, when removed, also removed paint.

    In general, I'm not a big fan of aluminum. Its cheap. Post-1980 or so, the quality of the billet alloy is highly questionable. Buuuut, this Super sure handles nicely... and the aluminum probably came from ALCOA.:) Anyhow, the main concern with Al is that with oxidation, it becomes increasingly brittle, in addition to developing pits. The best solution to date, protecting against moisture, oxidation and general dings, is TypeIII mil-spec anodizing, typically followed with another coating.

    Whatever the paint is that Gillette originally used, it isn't bad. Many of these little guys have held up extremely well, but if yours is spotty, or if you find one that is, the following pics show an easy up-grade/restore.

    I didn't do "before" shots, but its pretty much moot, as the whole body has been uniformly recovered. I taped off the nickel areas using electrical tape, since it can be stretched to bind tightly. On the Super, I ran the dial up to 9, to expose as much of the handle as possible, and to allow me to seat the tape to prevent it gumming the dial. Turning the tape sticky-side out, I wrapped it around the handle, then carefully folded it backwards, up over the dial. A toothpick will help press down any stray ends. For the band, around the base, I cut a 1/8" strip of tape, and stretched it tightly around the band. I then used a razor blade to slice away the excess, and tuck the edges in the seam.

    Finish is Duracoat, "HK Black", applied with an airbrush. Duracoat is a slightly tweaked form of Sherwin-Williams Polane-T, i.e., the paint used on bulldozers, highway equipment, etc.. It is impervious to tap water, and meets a whole bunch of salt-water spray, abrasion, and temperature tests. Most of us won't go that far with a razor, but, hey...

    It is recommended that DC be air-dried at 70*+F for roughly 10 days. I've used it on firearms, knives, and a few other things for years, and I generally stick it in the oven at +/- 100* for about an hour. This won't harm brass/aluminum razors, and my firearm finishes wear the same weather air-dried or heated, the difference being I can use them within 24 hours with heat. The heat/air-dry controversy with Duracoat is as animated as whether SE provies a better shave than DE, or vice-versa, so, FWIW.:sport026:
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  2. blanka

    blanka I will not eat my shaving products. Promise.

    Nice!
     
  3. Slipperyjoe

    Slipperyjoe Rusty Metal Tetanus

    Good piece of work!
     
  4. Mark1966

    Mark1966 Well-Known Member

    Excellent work - good to see over-engineering at its best!
     

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