Blade agressivness / sharpness question

Discussion in 'Safety Razors' started by pcm81, Feb 10, 2019.

  1. pcm81

    pcm81 Member

    I know that different DE blades have different sharpness. My question is this:
    When using an adjustable safety razor like fatboy, does the blade sharpness matter or can i compensate for a really sharp blade with razor adjuster? Naturally i am not asking about using a dull blade and compensating for it, rather using a sharp blade like feather and dialing it down with the adjuster. Or will i actually have different result from a less sharp blade? Still don't know what i like as far as blades / settings go, so trying to eliminate the variables.

    Thanks ahead
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2019
    Frijolero, RyX and brit like this.
  2. wchnu

    wchnu Duck Season!

    Blade is a blade. There is not enough difference to matter as long as sharp. That dial is marketing. If you know how to use the tool you can turn it up and shave with any blade. Given it is sharp. No such thing as a undamaged razor or blade that is too aggressive.
  3. brit

    brit in a box

    i have heard that using a sharp feather blade will make a very mild razor come to life. but i would set the adjustable on a setting and leave it.then try different blades at that setting. there are others here who know more about adjustables. i believe in technique trumps will get a good shave if one gets used to the razor and uses proper technique.. ride the cap ..etc.
    Frijolero, Primotenore and wchnu like this.
  4. Engblom

    Engblom Well-Known Member

    The aggressiveness of a razor is all about how easy it is to get the blade to the skin. With a mild razor, you need to have a perfect angle or the blade will not touch your face if you have a zero pressure. Still the razor, regardless if it is adjustable or not, is just a blade holder. It is the blade that is doing the hair cutting. Thus you can not compensate a too dull blade by cranking up the aggressiveness on the razor.

    I fully believe that sharpness matters. One need to find a blade sharp enough to not tug and pull in the whiskers. If you experience tugging and pulling you will lose the precision in your movements and most likely end up with some irritation. Even though I have done just DE shaving and no other kind of shaving since Christmas 2012, I am still not able to get a good shave out of some of the brands. They just tug in a painful way. If you do not want to try too many blades, give at least these a try: Voskhod, Astra, Sputnik and Feather (approximately in sharpness order). Find one that is easily slicing through your whiskers and then stay with that one until you have figured out all the other variables.
  5. Primotenore

    Primotenore missed opera tunity

    Rather than focussing on the blade, focus on the angle. On your adjustable, as has been said, pick an opening. (It does NOT matter) I have espoused in the past, that when using an adjustable razor, the shave is exactly the same, so long as the angle is maintained. If you are experiencing tugging, irritation, etc. your angle is too steep and you are scraping, rather than slicing. (Hence the adage: "Ride the Cap") There is much truth there. Place the razor head against your skin, with the handle straight out from your face at a 90˚ angle. As you begin your downward pass, slowly lower the handle towards the ground until you just feel the blade. That is a very shallow angle, shallower than you probably anticipated, but the most efficient angle for slicing. If all is correct; if you have a good lather, and you keep your pressure light, you should feel like the razor is skating across your skin. Imagine removing the lather, NOT the stubble. The most challenging thing will be to maintain this angle over the different contours of your skin. Every area isn't as flat as the cheeks. Join us over at the 30DC and report your findings daily. There you will receive tips, encouragement as well as a healthy dose of frivolity. Good luck.
    brit likes this.
  6. Chuck Naill

    Chuck Naill Well-Known Member

    Excellent post. When I hear someone say they want more aggression, I think, learn to use your razor blade holder.
    brit, Frijolero and Engblom like this.

Share This Page