COOPER RAZOR OWNERS CLUB (CRC)

Discussion in 'Safety Razors' started by Herm2502, Jan 4, 2018.

  1. BBS

    BBS Well-Known Member

    What I mean by clogging is you know you need to rinse out the razor once it starts leaving comb drag marks in the cream on the face. This razor I need less passes before that happens than with other open combs I've used. Probably has to do with the bottom of the base plate being flat.
     
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  2. PLANofMAN

    PLANofMAN Paperboy

    Article Team
    I wouldn't know. This is one razor that I ride the cap on. I just know it gives me great shaves.

    A little more info on the Monobilt- they were made from 1932 through about 1938. They sold for $5 for the chrome plated version, which put them at a premium price vs Gillette, which sold for about half that price during the same time frame. The gold version was either $8 or $10. I cannot quite recall.

    I suppose I should post some obligatory eye candy here too. :)
    [​IMG]
     
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  3. Herm2502

    Herm2502 off to elf practice

    I never noticed any clogging on a Monobilt. I did find this to be a very mild razor, never had a nick either. Guess I have to revisit this one.

    Herm
     
  4. BBS

    BBS Well-Known Member

    One nice thing about open combs you know for sure when the angle is wrong on the first pull of the razor if you get those comb drag marks in the lather on your face. This is also how you know it is clogged after working out the angle on subsequent passes. If it doesn't take all the lather off on a pass or leaves those comb streaks it is time to rinse. My experience is this holds true for every open comb I've used.
     
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  5. Paul Turner

    Paul Turner outside the quote(s) now

    What is the O in CROC?
     
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  6. Herm2502

    Herm2502 off to elf practice

    The acronym CROC stands for Cobra Razor Owners Club.

    Herm
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2018
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  7. Paul Turner

    Paul Turner outside the quote(s) now

    oh,I see the trap now. It's kinda ,like the "Twitter-Tweeter" problem.
     
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  8. jmudrick

    jmudrick Well-Known Member

    Shaved today with the handle backed off enough to allow for some gap. Phenomenal shave, much more efficient than with the handle fully tightened. No skipping or other problems. Way better adjustabe than the Single Ring.[​IMG][​IMG]
     
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  9. BBS

    BBS Well-Known Member

    When I get back to shaving with this razor, based on what you've posted I plan to test this out further. I am going to take a feeler gauge and maybe some thin strips of tape and turn the knob into a makeshift adjuster dial. See what works and doesn't.
     
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  10. jmudrick

    jmudrick Well-Known Member

    I find that very tiny adjustments make a big difference, and that a barely discernable gap is a big improvement over fully tightened.
     
  11. Herm2502

    Herm2502 off to elf practice

    Didn't realize you could back off the handle. I agree more "testing" is in order!

    Herm
     
  12. BBS

    BBS Well-Known Member

    Easiest way I think to start is use the pin and knurling lines as a zero mark when fully tightened. Then back it off by knurling line and see how much the blade moves where you can get measurement. You just need to figure out the scale using gap as a measurement in this case i.e. how many turns for a .1 , .01, .001 difference and does it deviate the next set of turns. We are not try to replicate tolerances here only make a scale based on some known reference points. If these were made to some exacting standard, different Monobilts measured this way should show repeatable results.

    On mine for example the problem with using the pin to reference, one side the center of the pin sort of lines up with a knurl line, the other the center of the pin lines up between 2 knurl lines. Either way both are off center and I would suspect others are the same. The space between the knurling lines should be consistent across multiple Monobilts.
     
  13. BBS

    BBS Well-Known Member

    I did some measuring finally. First off using the splines to count off a revolution won't work, I put some pencil marks on mine and each time I backed off the knob and tightened it down they wouldn't reline up. There is a way to determine how far you can back off the knob, at some point tightening it down the cap won't have any spring in it. You can test that with your finger. The amount of gap I came up with is .011 inch and .012 inch max before the cap can be moved. Didn't matter if I loaded the blade under or above the tab. The resolution is that good that you can back it off by .001 increments since the knob mechanism (at least on mine) is really tight with no slop in it. I backed mine down to .007 inch before I stopped.

    One other thing even when you tighten the cap just enough that it doesn't have any spring in it, one corner on both sides will be off by about .001 inch to the other due to the way the cap tightens down. There is slightly more force on the hinge side and it will be tighter than the tab side. I checked it without a blade with the smallest feeler gauge I have which is a .0015 inch and it was the same issue.

    I have a way to test just how much those increments make a difference. When this razor makes it way back into rotation I will shave it including prep the exact same way with a fresh blade edge at .012 inch, .006 inch, .0015 inch ( I don't have a .001 gauge) and completely tightened. If there is a big enough variation then at .009 inch and .003 inch.
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2018
  14. jmudrick

    jmudrick Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the diligent investigation. I'm not sure what to conclude given I definitely prefer shave backed off some, perhaps I'm in that sweet spot .
     
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  15. BBS

    BBS Well-Known Member

    The idea even without a feeler gauge is to be able to repeat setting the razor at whatever sweet spot works best. It all depends how precise you want to get to find it.
     
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  16. richdad

    richdad Member

    This is my first post. I've been a long time reader but felt I had little to contribute to the wonderful and so knowledgeable members of these forums. I just purchased a monobuilt from a great vendor on etsy that I had bought from in the past. I had read about how good a shaver it was and am into a offbeat razor phase. When it came I didn't really examine it - it was shiny and looked nice. It functioned just as everyone here says - blade feel but very very efficient; hard to cut yourself. After a few days of shaving nirvana I took a good look at the razor and lo and behold I found that one of the retaining hooks wasn't engaged leaving the blade higher up on that side and; the combs are slightly askew; the blade is thoroughly held down on the hinge side and slightly up on the hooks side! And shaving like a dream.
    I corrected the hook problem by bending it until it engaged with a pair of needle nose pliers wrapped in duct tape on the ends However the hinge still got marked up due to the soft metal. Now the blade is almost flat. Oh - and the shave - exactly the same. I would like to mention the Etsy vendor if that is permissable because he has some very interstoing razors you guys would be interested in. I don't know what the rules are so let me know. View attachment 173867 View attachment 173868 View attachment 173867 View attachment 173868
     

    Attached Files:

  17. jtspartan

    jtspartan Well-Known Member

    Great to have you aboard, and great razor! Love the MonoBilt- it looks like it is in nice shape. You should head over to the welcome centre and introduce yourself to the group. If you’ve been a long time reader, you’ve probably seen the 30 day crew thread, but if you haven’t, I heartily recommend it for shaving tips, information, knowledge (and a few jokes).
     
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  18. Linuxguile

    Linuxguile dating an unusual aristocrat

    Supporting Vendor
    SOTD OCtober 19th
    [​IMG]

    Stirling Mentholated Pre-Shave Soap
    Cooper MonoBilt
    Super-Max Blue Diamond Titanium
    Yaqi Mysterious Space (24mm, Frigate Class)
    Tallow & Steel 'Maya"
    Homemade Lime AS followed by Stirling Glacial Lemon Chill PSB
     
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  19. ordinaryshaver

    ordinaryshaver Well-Known Member

    So, I'm going to drag up an old thread again, but that's what happens when you get into this hobby!

    I found the 3 piece razor today at a local antique store. Paid 12 bucks for it.

    I have it soaking now to sterilize it, then tomorrow I will begin the process of cleaning.
    Quite a bit of soap scum and crud on it, so it wiil require lots of scrubbing.

    I am still a bit confused however. Do I need to punch a hole in a modern blade, or just tighten the cap all the way down.
    To clarify, it is the 3 piece, so that may help with the answer.

    When I put in a modern blade, it is a bit difficult to get everything lined up exactly perfect, so any advice is welcome.
    I will post pics when I get her good and cleaned up.
     
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  20. jmudrick

    jmudrick Well-Known Member

    You can scrunch the blade...of course it will if repeatedly done damage whatever plating remains over the Zamak so I guess it depends on how much often you want to put it to use and the existing condition of the plating.
     
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