Bought this at an antique store, its my first restore attempt, it'll probably not be nearly as good as it can be, but I was t it as a shaver not a show pony, although mirror finish is nice this is how the blade started, I figures even if I dont get all the pitting out, the edge is pretty clean. this is approximately a 4/8 razor (used my calipers) so its much smaller than the monster I got with my SR kit to start out (Straightrazors.com i think?) this is what I accomplished with 60-100-150-220-350-400-600-800 wet/dry sand paper. my local hardware store only had up to 800 grit that I could find. I had a terrible setback when working on this, first off, the scales were much more fragile than I believed (newb) so the snapped, then, while removing the pin from the tang to remove the excess now ruined scales, my razor fell out of the vice straight to my concrete floor! so there was a good size chip in is I had to breadboard away to get the edge clean again. now I need some new scales for this, anyone have any ideas? Im up for anything not that the originals are gone. part of me wants to put it back into duplicate scales, the other part tells me to pick out a nice wood, either way I need to get them done elsewhere since I dont have the tools/expertise to do it myself. as well I need to get this thing back into shaving shape, I'll probably just send it out since I dont have the honing stones to do it myself yet either...
Just took both these razors I have up to 3000 grit and then somwnpolish. The imperial no 20507 will never win any medals but I got of to shine through the pits. It's about a quarter hollow blade.
There still appears to be considerable surface scratches on the Dubl Duck (per the image above). Most of those should be removed in the lower grits (60 through 220) prior to moving up the grit scale. The goal is to gradually reduce the evident surface scratches before moving up to the next (or finer) grit sandpaper, and not rush the process. The rational behind doing the process this way is that it is far easier to remove material and requires less time with the lower grits. I've sanded blades for hours and gotten up to the 400 stage only to realize the scratches made by the coarser sandpaper were still evident. I then had to backtrack and start over at the lower grits again. Only move up when either the scratches are entirely removed or softened considerably. You'll save time in the long run and be happier with the results. It's better, in my opinion, to invest the time early on in the process. It'll play dividends as you get to those higher, polishing grits.
