So this is the first razor I am completely taking apart and restoring. So first question. Using a jewelry saw. How do you get it in between the pivot hole and scale without messing up the inside of the scales. Same for down at the wedge. I'm going to update the thread as I do this restore. It's a Hess 44. Everything looked good just needs a little TLC. Not much honeware.
I wet sanded the scales to 12k It is hard to show how glossy the scales are, but the top looks like glass.
I sanded the back side of the blade and the back side and top of the tang. On the blade I found out it wasnt rust. I lightly sanded the backside of the blade with 1.5k wet. The blade looks in better condition than a lot of blades. You can still see the original sanding marks. On the tang I did dry 240. I love the brushed metal look that gives. Curious to see what you all think on the brushed look on the tang. I know I still need to sand more to get all the scratch marks going the same way and get rid of the scratches that are going up and down vs left and right. Please let me know what you think of the job I'm doing and especially the brushed look on the tang. I posted both sides of the tang so you can see the difference in the polished side and brushed side.
Oh and taping the blade off before putting the clear polish didn't work. All of the clear polish came off with the tape. I would say if you tape off the blade before putting clear polish on, then get a razor blade and cut the clear where the polish comes in contact with the tape.
Thank you. I really lucked out with this razor. I really couldn't do any better with a restore razor.
Looking good! I’ve struggled getting a satin or brushed finish with anything less than 400, but maybe a couple of squirts of WD-40 while sanding to help soften the scratch pattern. Some people will take the sanding up to 1500/2000 and then come back and apply a one directional application of 400 or 600 for uniformity. Cool thing is there are many steps in between that may catch your eye as you work the tang. Thanks for sharing your journey. Tom
I prefer colored nail polish. With the colors, you can see if it is wearing down, and you can polish closer to its edges. I stopped using tape, a while back, for the same reason you found out. All you need to to is to have a steady hand, with the nail brush. One thing you might find out, with nail polish, is that it will etch metal, ever so slightly. Dont worry, the etching comes of with a Q-Tip, and some Flitz polishing compound. Some of my learned secrets revealed. Shhhh, dont tell anyone else. .. ..
Yes. Remove the nail polish with acetone polish remover. Acetone will not damage gold etching. But, anything abrasive, like is in Flitz will damage Gold Etching. That is why I use a Q-Tip, to get close. Also, take care not to use tape on the gold etching, I have had electric tape, as well as painters tape rip Gold etching off razors. Regular etching doesnt need this much care, but gold is fragile. .
Thank you for the tips. Those are absolutely critical tips. I do not want to damage the gold etch at all. Can I use renaissance wax on the gold etch?
I've never used it. I just oil my blades with mineral oil after each use. Houston is very humid, and I don't want rust.
Mineral oil is too thin in my opinion. Renaissance wax water just beads off it. I dont even have to dry the blade really. I am loving the stuff.
I have also read people are using it to protect the gold leaf on strops. I am looking into that. Right now I use flitz on scales and renaissance wax on the blade. I am also using on brushes to help protect them.
I am sorry I haven't posted any more here. I haven't done any more on the restoration. I've been dealing with my med problems and the depression from them. It took me 3 months to hone a puma razor I got. I will get back to this soon. And when I do I will post more pics.
Sorry to hear about your troubles. I hope you get back to normal. I've been slacking too, with my honing and restoration work.
